Showing posts with label DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE. Show all posts

Saturday, November 10, 2007

WILDCLIFF MEETING AND WHALE TRAIL NOVEMBER 2007.




WILDCLIFF AND WHALE TRAIL NOVEMBER 2007.
Minutes of the second meeting of Trustees. 10.11.2007.

Saturday morning 10th November 2007.
Barbara, Dawn & I left for Wildcliff at about 7.00am. Ally was going to be coming with us but we had to leave her at home as she had an important Band practice at school over the next few mornings and did not want to miss that. Ally stayed at the Zeelie’s for Saturday and Sunday and then Michael would stay at our home for a few days while we were away. Our first stop was at Storms River where we topped up and down with coffee.

The next stop was Sedgefield where they have a Farmers Market on Saturday mornings. We had planned for this and enjoyed a full breakfast there. We bought a few different types of bread and pastries for the Wildcliff stay. We made a brief stop at Albertina for some Biltong. The lady in the shop asked me if I wanted Gekervde Biltong. It was the first time that I had heard the term and while I realised that it meant Sliced, I phoned Gerald to confirm and let him know of this quality biltong stop. We also purchased a good looking piece of Fillet Steak for a reasonable price.

Our final stop was Heidelberg where we filled up with petrol before heading up to Wildcliff. As we approached Wildcliff we saw two Blue cranes which we have not seen before. Bob’s Grey Rhebuck were grazing on the plain. As we arrived at the house we were met by Roger & Tory and Rogers son Andrew and family. Tory left with Andrew and Roger stayed for the Trustee meeting that was planned for 14.30. Other Roger, Gael and Ian were still on their way from Cape Town and would be a little later than planned. We settled into the Casita.

It was a great afternoon and we decided that tea on the stoep would be a good place to hold the Trustee Meeting.
Minutes of the Wildcape Trustee Meeting:
Present: Ian & Jenny
Peter, Barbara & Dawn
Roger Gush
Roger and Gael.
Researchers: Alex, Sarah & Kelly
Bob

1. Ian confirmed the minutes of the previous meeting.
2. Peter explained the Financial Situation. Peter has an ongoing track of the financial situation.
3. The Pond: building is complete and planting of trees and shrubs has begun but baboons have already destroyed some of them. Roger’s son tom will be bringing some new plants this weekend. Roger will give some advice to Alex regarding future trees etc to plant. Some trees may be sourced from Grootvadersbos and others from local sources such as Wildcliff and Bob’s farm. We should obtain aluminium tags for identification purposes.
4. Mapping: boundary and vegetation mapping should start. Ian provided a GPS computer to assist with this.
GIS mapping will also start as soon as Dominic Giddy (research assistant) arrives.
5. Bio Monitoring. Take an area that has been disturbed. List as many factors as possible. Reassess regularly. Choose 5 to 10 spots. Take photographs. Measure recovery.
6. Kelly and Baboons: Kelly has started an observation log and is sending droppings for analysis. Someone suggested growing stuff out of Baboon poop to see what they are eating. Fitting a collar is a consideration and will need expert involvement.
Bob: Baboons feed on the oak trees and then move across to the fruit trees later. IN February and March they rip the protea apart to eat the beetles that are in the protea flower.
Pit Trap. A shrew was caught in one.
7. Sarah & Black Wattle: observed that BW grows where there were plantations. Sarah will start a process of cleaning up from the outskirts of the infestation. The method will be pulling of saplings, lopping of larger trees and the use of Garlon Poison that is dyed blue with a hand held spray. All areas are to be marked out and a weekly report is to be submitted.
8. Dominic Giddy from Westville Durban and Mickal Houadria (insect research) from France will be joining the team shortly.
9. Proposal for a nursery; This was shelved due to the cost, the potential availability of plants from Dept of Forestry (Saarsveld) in George and destruction by Baboons.
10. Renovations and restoration of buildings:
Heron: There is still some work to be done. The gas should be connected shortly. The water system works intermittently.
Talari: Plans for renovations to be discussed with Jacques from Homecare and with Mike from Cape Town.
11. Vehicle: Bob will order a spare key.
The meeting was closed as Jacques arrived.

We had a Pootjie that evening. I had brought my pot from home and we cooked on a fire at the back of Talari. After a really good evening we were about to head back to the Casita when we discovered a pool of water in the garage. A join in the main pipe had come apart and we spent the next hour trying to repair joins and dam up gullies to prevent the house becoming flooded. This was not an easy job as we had all had a few beers and were trying to work by torch light.
Sunday Morning.
In various groups we walked up the road to Ena’s Falls. Dawn, Barbara & Peter walked all the way up. Others had driven in the Toyota and by the time we got there they had found a way down the valley to the pool at the bottom of the falls. Barbara, Jenny, Dawn & I walked up and on a bit further and then headed back down.

We hitched a ride back to the house as Ian was expecting Mike and Basil the builders to meet him there to talk about renovations to Talari. Mike did quite a thorough estimation of what work would be required. Basil, his father, Bob and some of the rest of us had some tea. Roger, Gael, Sarah and Emily had opted for a walk down and we saw them a little later. It seems that Basil has a house just below where Bob stays and the work would be based there.

It was a lazy Sunday afternoon and I fell asleep on a chair in the Casita when I heard Ian asking if I would like to go for a walk. Ian, Alex, Roger, Gael and I walked up the hill to the start of the pine forest and then down the East side towards Plattekloof River. We walked through some really nasty bush (probably part of the Erica family) towards what we think is the North Eastern boundary of Wildcliff. As we left the bush we came to the obligatory Black Wattle but once we were through that we were surprised by some pristine indigenous forest of Stinkwood, Keurboom and other trees that the experts can name. It was like entering a new world.

The Wattle is hard and totally dominates while the indigenous forest has a wide variety of plant sorts, the ground is bouncy and soft from the leaves and the temperature was noticeably cooler. At the bottom there was a flowing stream with tadpoles, frogs and even some fish. We climbed upstream first there were a few rocks to negotiate but then we started climbing some steep waterfalls and rocks. It is a beautiful part of Wildcliff that we were all delighted to discover. Bob tells me that there is an old “Spook House” around here somewhere.

Roger was expecting his son, Tom, to arrive with some plants so we headed back up the side of the Kloof. It was quite a tough climb but we were soon out of the hill and into the Protea field and heading back down the road to Talari.

Ian and Jenny took Sarah and Emily to Cape Town for a few days visit there. Ian had some business to attend to and would meet us at Potberg on Tuesday afternoon. When I got back to the house I found Roger battling with the water pipes. One of the joins had come adrift again. We managed to secure it and he was able to leave. Tom had left us a variety of plants from their Nursery in Cape Town.

Nicci and Stefan had met Roger and Gael at Wildcliff and while on a drive one day had been able to visit the Nursery on the Cape Point. Once Roger and Gael had left there was now only the three of us in the Casita and Alex in the Heron. Alex joined us for some left over Pootjie for supper and flopped into bed quite exhausted.

Monday morning.
We had a lazy morning drinking lots of tea and coffee and chatting on the veranda of the Casita. We sat watching Baboons as they roamed all over Talari and the pond. A grey heron wandered around the long Kikuyu grass in front of us. The weaver birds began building a nest in the tree next to us until the fussy wife came along and showed her total disgust in his efforts. He had painstakingly begun the nest building from nothing. Holding two thin branches together with his talons and trying to get the first strand of grass to bind, then flying up and down had managed to get a good beginning of a nest on the go. But all for nothing. Women!

Bob came round and worked on the water pipes. He created a relief outflow just below the Casita where pressure could be released and water could flow down to the stream below. After lunch he and I drove his bakkie to the village where he left it to be repaired. We visited the shop for some bread and the Lawyer Hoffman and the Co-operative where I was finally able to open an account.

We discussed the possibility of a water powered generator as a source of power for Wildcliff. The manager of the Co-op, Hennie said that he had not had such a request before but would do some investigation. Richard had also offered to do some research into the possibility of Hydro Power.

Bob pointed out something that has been a question in my mind for many years: the big white bales, that we see on the fields as we drive past, are Oats that have been treated and provide a very nutritious fodder but also quite expensive (R250 each). The open rolled bales that we see along the road are the Chafe of the wheat that has been reaped. These leftovers provide a far less expensive fodder (R50 each). We had tea with Wilma before I headed back to Wildcliff for supper. I had bought some Kingklip at the Farmers Market and we had this with potato chips for supper.

Tuesday 13th morning.
Ann had said that she would be coming today to fetch the Mercedes as well as Peter’s Bakkie that was broken down at Heron. This morning there were Baboons everywhere and when I said that I would be going to the top dam to see if we could find the problem with the water supply, Barbara was quite worried. I think that Bob’s assistant, Hendrik had not turned the tap at the dam open wide enough and this caused the water to stop flowing. I then made the mistake of opening it too wide and the result was that the pipe separated again. Water is a constant battle at Wildcliff.

Gerald phoned to say that they had bought some Gekervde Biltong in Albertina and that we would see them in Potberg. Ann arrived and began to load her Bakkie and the Mercedes with all their stuff. The house looked quite bare and we decided that it was time for us to leave as well.

The drive to Potberg took us through Heidelberg where we stocked up at the local Spar before taking the road past Slang River and then to Malgas where we got onto the Ferry. Gideon and Booi were the operators. They were their normal jovial selves and ended up charging us too much (R40 instead of R30) but I felt that their good nature and friendly banter was worth the extra R10.

On the last section we saw a number of Blue Crane and even a Secretary Bird. We stopped off at the Trading Store at the intersection leading down to Cape Infanta where I asked a chap in a Landrover (Brian) to confirm the direction that we were taking. He became so excited about talking to us that he jumped out of his vehicle and nearly lost it as he had forgotten about a small detail called a Hand Brake. He then told us about the 10 Whales that were cavorting at Cape Infanta. As we approached Potberg I did my traditional stop for Ostrich Feathers (which I had done the last time we were here). The Bontebok that one sees close to the fencing are quite spectacular with their white rumps and deadly looking horns.

At Potberg we parked our vehicle next to the huts and started to offload only to be greeted by a distraught Gerald who told me that the organisers now supply boxes that we had to use to load up all our stuff instead of the suitcases that we had thought that we would use. In the end we took a few extra boxes and coped quite well. Another feature that took us by surprise was that, at every overnight hut, we were supplied with a complete set of cutlery, can opener, plates, pots, gas stove and cups. They also have dish washing facilities with hot water, hot showers and flush loos.

While the hiker is expected to clean up after each day, there is a cleaning team that will empty bins and make certain that the hut is in pristine condition for the next day’s hikers. Ian and Jenny arrived a little later and we set up our cooking for the evening. Robin took on the duty as chief fire man for that evening and retained the duty though-out the hike. That evening we set up a couple of stretchers to accommodate the extra two bodies. I, for one, had a stunning evening after enjoying some snacks, drinks and a delicious supper. The hiking banter began early as we told the same old boring stories that we always tell but find incredibly funny & interesting every time they are told.

Wednesday 14th November Morning.
We had decided to leave at 07.00 and after some tight packing and rearranging of stuff we managed to get going on time. Barbara and Jenny were left all alone. Barbara commented later how empty she felt as she saw us heading off on a five day adventure and she had a long and lonely drive home.

The day starts off through some Eucalyptus and Wattle trees before heading uphill. The natural fynbos soon takes over and I found it interesting listening to Ian, the American, telling all of us South Africans that the Fynbos consists of four main plant types: the Protea, the Erica, The Restio and the Geophytes.

Most of us know the Protea Family quite well and can recognise the plant as being a protea. There are huge varieties and we would be very knowledgeable to be able to identify even a fraction of this variety. The Erica is tough stemmed with small flowers and round leaves. Here too there are wide varieties. The Restio is the grassy looking part of the fynbos that often grows in clumps. The Geophytes are the bulbous and often very pretty plants such as the Arum Lilies and the Watsonias.

As we walked up the pathway we were fortunate to see some Cape Vultures as they circled lazily in the clouds above us. The fortunate thing about climbing high like this morning is that we get closer to this elusive bird. Robin took a bit of strain going up the hill. He became quite out of breath and dizzy. Robin is a regular hiker doing day hikes almost every week. Fortunately he knew how to handle himself and took it easy until we finally reached the top of the Potberg (5km) after a hike of about 2.30hours.

Out came the Cell phones and refreshments. Ian called Jacques (082 788 8375) to confirm building operations. We were able to check up on loved ones before setting off again. Barbara told me that both she and Jenny had reached Heidelberg safely and that she was now on her way home. We walked the ridge of the mountain with the Breede River to the East and some deep gorges to the West. I wonder if there are such vast protea fields anywhere else in South Africa? They stretched as far as the eye could see. I think that both Roger and Tory were battling with their boots until they fastened their laces which helped to stop the jarring of the downhills.

Robin called the lunch spot. It is important to know that it is the second crossing of the Melkhout stream where the hiker must stop as this is a much better and bigger place for a picnic. This is the one and only time that we could fill water bottles during the day. A couple of us had a cool off in the water before we enjoyed our snack and a short nap. This is the 10kay mark and here after we headed up hill. Robin was again struggling and he and I brought up the rear. Dawn was on a roll and charged off into the sunset ahead of us.




We reached the hut around 3.00pm and then went off for the compulsory swim in the dam. The water was great and a wonderful cool down after a hot day of walking. We saw some men across the dam also enjoying the afternoon at the water. As we had approached the Cupido’s Kraal hut, Robin had been telling me about his bridge lessons that he had been taking.

We managed to connive Roger and Dawn into joining us for some light hearted bridge. Those who know me know that there is nothing light hearted about the way I play the game. I am both reckless and ruthless and play to win! But we had a lot of fun and had Linda as an onlooker who appeared interested.

Just in front of the braai area were some Cape Sugar birds entertaining us with their antics on the (Suikerbossie) Pincushion Protea flowers. Most of the Protea had already flowered and dried up but the Sugarbush was in full bloom. Gerald also pointed out some other Laat Lammetjies in the protea world. We continued the evening with a wonderful fire supported by evening snacks and drinks.

Ian, Dawn and I had our chicken sosaties fresh bread with a cheese topping. Ian made us a vegetable stir fry to go with this incredible bush meal. This evening Dawn and I shared an upstairs room with Ian and Robin in the loft across from us.

I had brought a Farmers Weekly to read. Since Ian bought Wildcliff I have developed an active interest in farming matters and find this a good read. Articles of interest included building a wine brand such as Robin’s friend in Calitzdorp is trying to do and the article about this woman farmer who won awards but who was running a really poor operation. The Transfer of Wildcliff to the Wildcape Nature Trust was listed in this copy. There is an interesting article that compares business management to the game of Rugby. Our GM (Johan Sadie) at Morkels has being making this comparison for years.

Thursday 15th November 2007.
This morning started off with a climb. Gerald & I brought up the rear. As we walked up the hill Gerald pointed put a rock that was in the shape of Africa. Maybe a bit of De je vu but I am sure that we had seen the same rock four years ago. At any rate I now had a relatively empty backpack and could easily fit this souvenir in the bag. Gerald & I shared the load until we had proudly shown the rest of the group who did not seem nearly as impressed with our treasure as we were. In fact Roger said it looked more like South America than Africa.

At about this time it began to drizzle quite strongly and the Ponchos and covers were taken out. This meant that we walked too fast to really enjoy the walk. By the time we reached to top of the hill that looks down onto the cove of Noetsie, the group had spread out by about a kilometre. The rain stopped and we had another bright sunny day for walking.

We saw some of the rangers parked on the road below and wondered if we had done something wrong that they were coming to talk to us about. As I approached these three men I greeted them heartily and asked them why they were climbing this hill that we had just descended. One of the men turned out to be the man we had seen across the dam the previous day.

He proudly introduced himself as Tom Ambrose (082 978 1971), 26 Comrades, 23 Oceans, 1 Rhodes and 6 Foots. I then introduced him to Gerald: 20 Comrades, 25 Oceans, 3 Rhodes and umpteen other ultra events and myself also having done my fair share of these great runs. Tom is a contractor to the Cape Nature as he sprays and cuts the Wattle and Port Jackson Willow. Benny and Oom At were the inspectors who were there to check up on his work rate. Tom also does fire control for the burning of this weed.

Shortly after crossing the road we rejoined the group for a lunch stop. They had found a bridge that was serving as a bench and were sitting in a straight stripe. I pulled out our lunch of cheese sandwiches. Unfortunately the Rock of Africa had by now flattened them somewhat but this combined with an apple and a drink of water was enough to sooth us into an afternoon sleep on the pathway. I could vaguely hear the chatter of the group as they left one by one but was too tired to take any notice.

After a short while Ian and I forced ourselves up and onwards. After this section of Port Jackson Willow we crossed a burnt field of Protea. The pathway takes hikers over a vast area of flat and round rock. The rock has a number of round holes where plants sometimes grow and I am sure that small creatures use as homes. We also passed by a section where the flow of water had eroded the rock in to caves beneath the pathway.

Ian explained to me that this was Limestone. Limestone is made of crushed sea shells and is a million years old. Ian pointed out that when the rock breaks you can see two things: Sometimes you will see the outline of a shell such as a sea snail or muscle. But what we could see distinctly was the layers as huge temperature fluctuations had created the rock formations.

Ian also pointed out another formation that I found interesting. It is the result of many years of pressure between a variety of smaller stones that eventually bind together to form one big rock. When you see this it is clearly made up of many small stones. This is referred to as a conglomerate.

We were quite a little way behind the rest of the group and as we came to the last descent at Noetsie, a small snake slithered across the pathway. It looked like a harmless grass snake about 60cm long and brown in colour. The Noetsie sleeping accommodation is the smallest of all the huts as the kitchen and the sleeping areas are in two separate huts. We saw a number of baboons but they kept their distance and did not bother us at all.

Pat & I had a short swim. It is best to take a pair of sandals on this hike as walking on the rocks is quite tough on the feet. Robin and I managed to rope in a couple of bridge players including Tory and Linda. I think that they enjoyed their brief and intense lesson. With a bit of practice they will become as keen as we are. Gerald took us for a short walk to see the huge log that had washed off a ship and been wedged on the beach. Roger, Ian and Tory did a bit of exploring over the nearby rocks.

Robin did his fireman duty and we were soon sitting around the boma area having cocktails and watching the most amazing sunset of the entire hike. There was a bit of cloud cover and this turned into bright reds, oranges and pinks before the sun finally set on the Western horizon.

Ian entertained us with a quiz: he handed Gerald a limestone, a blue bottle and a rock with Lichen on it. His question was which was mans closest relative. Dawn was quick to answer: “Gerald”. Ian explained that the Blue Bottle consists of three organisms; the tummy is the bottle and there are two other organisms in the tentacles that do all the stinging. And the Lichen consists of two cells in a bacteria and a single cell organism. I am not sure but I think that the Lichen was the correct answer to the quiz.

This evening Dawn, Ian & I feasted on the Fillet that I had bought in Albertina with potato with cheese and fresh carrots and tomato. We had a bottle of red wine for each evening to really make the meal special. I enjoy a cup of tea when I go to bed and am so used to it that I find it a little surprising that others don’t do the same. It did not take long after dark before everyone was in bed and fast asleep.

Friday 16th November 2007.
This morning I thought that I was first awake and sitting on the ledge in the morning sun while drinking coffee I was joined by a pair of redwing starlings and a little field mouse wanting crumbs. Pat emerged from the East Side. She had been watching the sun rise over the ocean. We had decided that we would give Pat some time to make bacon and eggs this morning and only left at 08.30am. The distance was only half of what we had walked the previous two days. This is not a flat hike and there are continuous ups and downs to make you work. By the time we came to the Stilgat stop we were ready for a swim.

Stilgat was to be our lunch time break. We all piled into the refreshing pool and cooled off before enjoying a bit of a snack. For me it would be either going to explore the caves or I would fall asleep. Gerald had a look at the memorial to Daantjie De Wet who was drowned in this area. It was decided that we should have a look at the caves. Fortunately we were prepared and had our torches. At the entrance to the firs and most obvious cave there is a huge whale bone. Hannes pointed out how heavy the whale bone is; probably to help it submerge. However the whale bone is quite porous in comparison to that of land mammals.

After we had accustomised our eyes to the dark we walked deep into the cave and marvelled at the stalactites and stalagmites. Unfortunately many of them have been vandalised but it is still worth a look see. We then went to explore the second less obvious of the two caves and here we were treated to some amazing sub caves and little temples created by the dripping limestone.

As we climbed out of the cove and up the ladders we saw our first whale of the hike. It flapped its tail at us briefly. Some of the rest of the group have moved ahead. We followed and saw what was to become one of the highlights of the hike. We sat on a high ledge, just above the whales, watching two cows with their calves staying very close. We could see them clearly but with binoculars, we were able to see the barnacles and formation of the whales.

The whales were Southern Right whales which we had seen described in the overnight hut. These animals grow to the size of up to 12 elephants. The calves drink up to 600 litres of milk a day. As we watched, a pod of about 6 dolphins joined the four whales and swam around them. When the whales eventually began moving on in an easterly direction three or four of the dolphins swam just ahead of the whales as we have seen them do in front of a speed boat in the ocean.

This was truly something special for us. We had sat on rocks, at what is almost the southernmost tip of Africa. The weather was perfect. We enjoyed a cool sea breeze, isolated from the rest of the world and witnessed a spectacular natural show of some of earth’s largest and most interesting animals.

On the whole trip we must have seen about 15 whales but none as close or as interesting as this sighting. We must have seen a total of about 50 to 100 dolphins over the next three days. Another interesting specimen was the lizards that we saw; including a number of the Blue Headed Ground Agama. They seemed quite confident as we approached them. They are incredibly fast and leap across rocks. Deryck spotted a pair of Klipspringer. They were quite close to us and very well camouflaged.

Today the hike ends with a short walk on the beach before reaching the overnight hut. As we sat outside the hut we had a few visitors in the form of the Southern Boubou, the distinctive white eyes of the Cape Bulbul, the happy songs of the Cape Grass Bird and a small field mouse. This afternoon some of the hikers had a sleep while others did a bit of exploring along the beach. Hannes and Gerald had a swim. It was a perfect end to the day as we all walked down to the beach to enjoy the sunset.




The fire was burning; we had our evening snacks and cocktails and persuaded Deryck to tell some stories which had us giggling like children. Ian, Dawn & I had a Pasta Supper with the leftovers of the Fillet. I was impressed to see both Pat & Gerald and Roger & Tory had a pudding each evening. I must remember this for future hikes. Not that we lacked sustenance but it just looks good.

Saturday 17th November.
The day started off with a long beach walk. This is about a five kay section and passes the Lekkerwater House that was built for former president F. W. De Klerk. There were two couples staying there who said that they were paying R5000 for the weekend. They had some small children and while we had a swim we were very careful to stay in an area where we were able to stand, it was certainly not safe for children to even approach the water.

Some of us walked in sandals and others walked barefoot. I think that Robin wore his boots the whole way. Which ever way you hike the beach: it is soft sand and tiring on the legs. Roger reminded me of a set of pistons as he had two sticks and watching him from the front was quite a sight. When we were on the sand he would sometimes tuck the sticks under his arms like a downhill skier.




Once we reached the rocks we had about 5 kays to go to the hut but wanted to stop for lunch at the blow holes. It was about here that we began to see the endangered Oyster Catchers in their pairs. We also saw many of the White Breasted Cormorants. As we walked on the ridges and sand dunes we saw the dunes littered with sea shells. Ian had explained to me that this is the remnants of tens of thousands of years ago. The sea was at this level and had left the evidence in the form of shells.

Unfortunately we did not know that the path leading to the blowholes had been camouflaged and we walked right past it. It was a hot afternoon and we trudged on to the hut. Hannes set a “Ramming Speed” as he sprinted to establish his place in the hut. I think that Jacqui has to battle to stay with Hannes when he puts his head down and heads for the overnight hut. We only realised too late that we had missed the blowholes. We had some lunch (cheese sandwiches with the last dregs of the fillet) and then filled water bottles and walked back to the blowholes.

The blowholes were clearly visible from a long way off and we could not understand how we had missed them. But once we were there we were again treated to a really special show of the force of nature as the water spouts up and through the two narrow apertures creating a spectacular show right in front of us.




By the time we started our walk back to the hut the sun was low and intense. I think that I had too much sun that day and arrived back in the hut quite dehydrated and exhausted. I showered and stayed out of the sun for the rest of the day.

This evening we again enjoyed the sunset and had a really substantial meal of pasta, Tuna and a Stir fry vegetable dish that Ian made for us. On the first night of the hike we had left some money and asked the porters who carry the boxes to buy some fresh bread. As a result we had more than enough bread throughout the hike. Gerald was determined to prove to Hannes that the Vaalkrans hut is built on a cave. Fortunately this is part of the information brochure.

Sunday 18th November.
Our final day of the hike. Roger & I were busy packing lunch and I saw that he had some biltong flakes that he was adding to the sandwiches. It seems that Tory really enjoys our biltong. Good for you girl! We will have her saying Ja and Lekker in no time. As we walked we saw an unusual looking pair of birds perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. Tory identified them as Egyptian Geese. It was strange to see them in this environment.

We walked at a steady pace and the front group missed the point where the whale bones can be seen. I saw what I thought was a whale rib. Hannes & I looked through Gerald’s Binoculars and were still not convinced. It was only when we took time to walk down the rocks that we assured ourselves that there were 7 whale ribs embedded into the sand and rocks.

The others had walked on ahead and we found them with Ian swimming in a small cove. After the rest of us had joined him Gerald realised that he must have left his glasses at the last stop. He and I jogged and walked back to the Whale Bone cove, where we recovered his glasses and eventually rejoined the group at the parking area at Koppie Aleen where Marylyn was waiting to collect us. This means that it is the second time that I have taken the upper path. Last time Barbara & I also took the upper path by mistake. This time Gerald & I took this less attractive path as we though it would be quicker.

The drive back to Potberg was quite interesting as we saw Eland, Bontebok & Zebra. After a quick shower Ian, Roger and Tory headed back to Heidelberg and African Haven. The rest of us took the road to Swellendam where we discovered that the trailer had a flat. Although the size of wheel did not match it did not seem to make a difference. A visit to the Spar to stock up on pies and cool drinks and we were off. Hannes took the Langkloof road from George and we had an easy ride home.

While this had not been a tough hike by any means, we must not forget that there are a number of short hills over the last three days and that the first two days consist of quite long sections and a number of climbs.

Wednesday, November 5, 2003

WHALE TRAIL NOVEMBER 2003

Whale Trail. 29th October 2003 to 3 November 2003
Cape Nature Conservation.
dehoopinfo@sdm.dorea.co.za
028 542 1126/7
Bill Corkill (082 556 0012)
Ruth Stasiak (041 585 8147) stasiak@telkomsa.net
Trevor Lloyd (083 966 0636)
Peter & Barbara Giddy (082 550 3174) pgiddy@hinet.co.za
Jap & Christine (Wasmuth) Coetzer (082 880 1453) japcoetzer@cybertrade.co.za
Peter and Judy Adams (082 600 6411) peter.adams@schenker.co.za
Gerald and Pat Scheepers (082 788 0522) marmow@telkomsa.net
Voetsac Hiking Club

Post hike reunion for Hikers and family alike will be held at Peter and Barbara (23 Mill Park Road) in the form of a Bring & Braai on Friday 14th November 18.00. We will swap stories and photos. Please call to confirm.

This trail was introduced to our running group over a year ago when Graham Richards came back from an epic trip in which he and his group had been snowed in the mountains of the Western Cape. We reserved our place in the hike over a year in advance. Bill spoke about the trail during our runs and Gerald and I immediately registered our interest in the form of a deposit. It was to be Gerald and Pat’s first long hike.

Our pre-hike meeting was held at the Westview sports club. During this meeting another group from the Voetsac club gave a report back on some of their experiences. One of the main problems seems to be that the directions to the start of the hike are not clear from the website or the hike map. Gerald and Pat were assigned to our Combi as were Jap and Christine. Barbara & I visited J & C to be sure that we knew where to go to collect them in the morning. By consensus we decided to leave at 05.00am on the Wednesday morning. This would give us plenty of time to find the hike and to do a bit of exploring in the reserve as well.


DAY ONE---PE to POTBERG

P & B left home at 04.45, filled with petrol, bought a coffee, collected G & P then J & C and we left PE at 05.30. Storms River was the first stop. We filled up with coffee and snacks. Then onto Mossell Bay where we had a filling Wimpy breakfast. Heidelberg (487Kays) was our last chance to make our final purchases of biltong and water. 3Kays out of town we turned left to Slangriver. Malgas (Malagas on the local signboards) is 45kays from Heidelberg on a dirt road. Alfred who has pulled the Pontoon across the Breede River for 20 years is accompanied by Gideon and William. They are employed by the Overberg Municipality. The R15.00 trip across takes about 7.5 minutes. 5Kays after Malgas we spotted 4 Cape Vulture. They were amoungst some sheep. We speculated that they were either interested in a dead sheep or in the afterbirth of the sheep that were lambing. The Dirt road to Potberg is fairly well signposted but should not be undertaken after dark. Our group was fortunate to be able to see the local farmers busy with their combine harvesters as they worked in their fields threshing and collecting the wheat. These farmers also farm Canola, Barley, Oats and Ostrich. I collected some Ostrich feathers for Christine but they were grey and scraggly and I don’t think that she was at all impressed. Another feature of the drive to Potberg was the Blue Crane and Bontebok with their young. The Bontebok in this area is the result of a farmer who realised that the buck were almost extinct with only 27 left. He set aside an area for them which has grown in size to the Bontebok game reserve. There are now over 1500 of the beautiful white faced buck in the area.

We checked in to the hiking hut after a brief chat to Eileen who is the secretary of the Potberg camp. Nomfundo (the trail manager) was away for a while. After we had settled in and claimed our bunks we set off for a drive across to the De Hoop entrance to the reserve. We were greeted with much friendliness at the gate. From here we visited the main camp and did the circular drive. Here we saw Cape Zebra and Bontebok. The camp is perfect for those wanting some bird watching in the on the river beds and swamps. We stopped off at the Tierhoek lookout. Just outside of the main reserve is the Buchubush lodge. (028 542 1602) We were later to learn that the Buchu Bush is part of the fynbos of the area. At the lodge we were warmly greeted by Bronwyn who offered us a welcome cup of tea. It appears that Eileen’s husband has created this lodge (a set of 5 thatched self-catering luxury chalets with meals also provided in the main building) mainly for overseas visitors. The chalets cost R615 per night and sleep up to 6 people. Back to Potberg hut where we met up with Bill, Ruth, Judy, Peter and Trevor. The 12th member of the team was unable to come due to a sudden illness. Bill declared that “Happy Hour was in future to be at 17.00 and that we were a half hour late for which we were reprimanded. A little later Louise came to give us some instructions and rules of the trail. We had opted for the porterage where a suitcase per couple would be collected at each of the huts every morning and transported to the next hut for us. We would be carrying lighter day packs. For a mere R200 per bag this turned out to be a real civilised way to hike as we had luxury meals and plenty to drink throughout the five day hike. That evening we lit our fire and decided that the next morning’s activities may not begin before 06.00 and that we would start the hike at about 07.30. Bill announced that they had already spotted whales at Wilderness. Barbara confirmed that she had also seen these whales but that I had been driving too fast. MMMM? Judy and Peter had to do some repacking of their suitcases. Trevor had had two interesting encounters with people that he knew, one at the station shop in Sedgefield where they had stopped for pies and the second on the Pontoon at Malgas. The last thing I remember that evening was looking up at the Potberg Mountain that we would be climbing the next morning.


DAY TWO------POTBERG TO CUPIDO”S KRAAL 15KM

I collected the combi from the parking lot to be able to load the stuff that we would not be taking on the hike. It was at this time that the oil light started to flash. This was very worrying to me and I added my reserve tin of oil to the engine but this did not help so Jap and I walked across to the office where we found Louise who offered to buy two more pints of oil for me. After much organising and last minute packing we left the hut at 08.00 and walked up into mist. Barbara had had blood pressure problems and was feeling extremely giddy (excuse the pun) as we began our ascent. However the mist kept us cool and we were able to do the first 4 kays in about 90minutes. This took us to the beacon of the Potberg Mountain which is at 611m above sea level and is the highest point of the hike. Here Gerald proved the use of a cell phone as he was able to organise his business from here. As we made this ascent we were treated to Egyptian geese and some of the most colourful fynbos that we have ever seen. It was after the short stop at the top that we experienced the earthquake. Jap had claimed the tail of the group and was found to be madly scrambling for his camera while Bill was flat on his back in the bushes. Apart from scratched legs; no injuries. By 11.00 the mist began to lift and we were able to appreciate some of the views as we walked along the ridged summit of the mountain. We were able to see the Breede River to the East and the valleys of the Potberg to the West. Unfortunately no vultures were spotted. For the record we noticed a bit of soil erosion taking place at one section just before the 8kay mark that needs a bit of management by the rangers. For a while I led the party & had to avoid a number of black and white spotted spiders the size of a R2 coin that seemed to lay their webs across the trail and camouflaged themselves to look like the seeds of the Luca Dendron protea of the area.

13.00 was a well timed lunch stop at the second crossing of the Melkhout River. Do not be tempted to stop at the first crossing as there is far less place for twelve to gather. And on a hot day you may want to have a cooling dip. At this stream we were well past the 10kay mark but the sign indicates 5.7kay to go. This was not true as we covered this last section of the hike in just 90mins. As we reached the top of the hill we saw the dam below us and shortly afterwards the huts. This was like a red flag to a bull as the front group set off at a dash to reach the hut. We arrived at Cupido’s Kraal hut at 15.00. It was here that we saw our first sighting of the Yellow Backed Widow. A stunningly black and yellow bird that habits the mountain fynbos. We are also able to identify the Cape Sugar Bird that seems to enjoy the nectar of the Pincushion Protea that are just outside the hut braai area. This hut consisted of 4 rooms, two downstairs and two upstairs. I only found out later that the upstairs rooms do not have bunks and that those sleeping upstairs have mattresses on the floor. However the mattresses are most comfortable. Trevor and I went to the dam where we had a swim, wash and a paddle in the canoe. Today Peter had been bitten by a horsefly. I heard that it is the female horsefly that seeks out blood whereas the male looks for nectar.

By the time we returned to the hut we found that Bill had brought forward happy hour by an hour. “Purely medicinal purposes” he claimed. Bill, as leader, had set some rules for the hike. One of these was that we hike together as a group. This was foreign to myself as we had often attempted to do this with our own hikes but it had never worked out but so far today it seemed to work quite well. The other rule was that everyone must put in a report for the day’s activities during happy hour. This worked well tonight but not really again as the group left the written work to me. Ruth declared that the weather had been perfect for hiking. Jap suggested that a lean-to shelter would have been perfect at the lunch stop especially for a hot day as there is little or no shade on this hike and the Protea fields can be quite stifling hot. During happy hour each evening Judy would take out her embroidery to make slow but steady progress. I discovered the Luca Dendron is the yellow tipped leafy protea that covers the fields and gives them that yellow appearance. This evening we really appreciate the fact that there are hot showers. These are powered by gas. In addition we are able to have electric lights in the evening which are powered by solar panels that recharge the batteries. Even in the overcast weather we have sufficient light in the evenings. Tonight we discover that Jap is an expert fireman as he truly sets himself the evening task of lighting the fire and keeping it going both outside in the drizzle as well as in the kitchen where we are able to boil water in the big black kettle that is provided. We are all fairly exhausted and not much sounds are heard after 21.00.

DAY THREE-----CUPIDOSKRAAL HUT TO NOETSIES HUT 15KM

This morning I cannot contain myself and am up earlier than the agreed 06.00. It looks like it will be a great day for hiking again. Slightly overcast with a slight cool breeze coming from the east. We begin the day with a variety of breakfasts. Pat makes Gerald his obligatory two cups of really strong and well sugared coffee. Combine this with a double dose of oats so easy and some “tit bits” and he is set for the days walk. I prepare our lunch which will be rye vita, liver pate, celery, carrots, tomatoes, lettuce, cheese, dates, sugared dried fruit and sweets. And washed down with a rare vintage of game. Boy it is going to be a rough day! We start the day with a photo session. And then are off! Just outside is a suspension bridge. This has to be negotiated one at a time to avoid falling into the muddy stream. We leave at 08.20 and are at the beacon at the top of this hill at 10.00.

This is not a tough walk and the views and sculptured sandstone should be enjoyed. We were able to identify rock sculptures of pigs, Egyptian pharaohs, elephants, tortoises, and various other shapes as we walked this very colourful and interesting pathway. As we were going up the hill we saw the van that collects the baggage on its way to the hut. And were completely fooled as to where the overnight hut was to be. Jap laid down his stick and ran down to them. It turned out that he wanted them to buy him some more film. They of course were more than wiling. It was the kind of friendly service that we had come to appreciate on this hike. Jap has two cameras and I am looking forward to see the results of all his efforts. A good place to stop for tea is at the beacon at the top of the Hammerkop mountain where there is a rocky area which provides a good backrest which I, for one, need. At about 09.15 the sun makes an attempt to warm us up through the clouds but not for long as the clouds win the morning. We make our tea stop at 10.00 where we get cell phone reception. Bill and Trevor try to contact home but to no avail as their respective spouses are either busy on the phone or out spending their money on “unnecessary luxuries”. Today there is a short climb but thereafter this could be a long day if we did not have the cloud cover. A good portion of the walk is along the ridge of the mountain where there is no shade and could be tough on a hot day. Apart from the first day there is no water or streams to replenish water bottles so an additional supply of water is essential. Just after 11.00 we begin the descent along the Zorro path. We are now able to see our cove where we know the huts to be situated.

Immediately after crossing the forest road we stop for lunch. By now the sun is in full force and most of us suffer from a bit of sunburn around the neck and face. A Black Eagle was spotted at our lunch spot. Today a few small snakes slithered across our path. They were definitely no threat to the hikers. We begin the final stretch to the huts at 13.00. This is an interesting part of the hike and should not be rushed. It is the first time we come across the Port Jackson Willow. However the bird life, fynbos, geckos, dung beetles and Tok Tokkies make the walk fun. Look out for the waterfall in the kloof. Once we see the huts we have a further 45mins before we amble into them. The steep downhill to the beach again claimed Bill and he had an involuntary sit down. Boots are changed for sandals and I am able to persuade Gerald (who hates anything that is not at bath temperature) to go for a swim. Peter is already in the waves. “Most unusual for him” says Judy. But we have the most enjoyable swim both in the waves and the lagoon. Trevor and co find a swimming pool above the little waterfall near to the hut. At this location there are two huts, one is for sleeping and the other for the kitchen and bathrooms. And there is a gas cooker to add to the luxury of the hut. A negative is that the rain leaks into the sleeping area for those on the mezzanine or the top bunk under the windows. The braai area is overlooking the rocks and this is an ideal place to make your mark on the trail with some flotsam and jetsam. Ropes and other paraphernalia are added by the various hiking groups to the braai structure. I am able to find a suitable plank to add to the roof. We also found a worn plank and wrote the Voetsack name on it for following groups to see that we were a force to be reckoned with! This was to be the forerunner of our trademark.

Some of the more energetic went exploring further and others brought forward the happy hour or just settled into a bit of reading. At this hut there is a huge amount of laundry taking place. Even Gerald is seen to be hanging up his (now clean) socks. The washing lines and bushes are littered with freshly smelling (in our opinion anyway) clothes. While Bill had his CD player and Mozart to relax by. Jap did his fire thing and those who still had fresh meat made use of the fire while others used it for an excuse to mellow out until way past sunset. The jeep track leading to the hut reveals the necessity for the hardiest vehicle available. There is no cell phone reception here, so even of you run out of beers you are unable to call for rescue. This evening we experience the best sunset of the hike as we sit and watch the ocean, clouds and sun merge into a burst of colour and fire. Today Bill has taken a great deal of strain on the down hills and is clearly in pain. He announces that this is his last five day hike. Judy proves to be the bird expert and points out the Grey-back Cisticola, the Familiar Chat, Orange Breasted Sunbird and we have also seen Rock Kestrel today.

DAY FOUR-----NOETSIE TO HAMMERKOP HUT. 8km

Jap and I are up early as usual. After a quick wash and coffee Jap spots the first whale of the day but we (mistakenly ) decide that this is a large rock. Barbara confirms the whale sighting a short while later. Essential equipment for this hike is a good pair of Binoculars, a pocket bird book as well as a camera. So our first whale sighting was at 06.30am at Noetsie on 01 November 2003. Today is also a special day as the Springboks play Samoa for a place in the semi-finals and after the Samoans gave the British team a tough game we are sceptical of the Springboks ability to win this one. The rest of the morning at the hut is one of shouts of glee and “thar she blows” as we spot whales, tails and flippers. The Southern Right Whale does not have a dorsal fin. The whale is the length of 10 elephants when fully grown and 6 at birth. Binoculars are essential for a full appreciation of the enormous size of these creatures. The morning starts off with rain and so we are huddled in doorways trying to catch a glimpse of these magnificent animals which we are going to see so much of later on in the hike. The choppy seas make identification of the whales and their shapes that much more difficult.

By 09.00 the rain has stopped and we make our way back across the beach to the hill and we are soon hot from the walking and the sun. This section of the hike is for a lot of exploring and stopping. There is no rush to get to the hut and so whenever there is an interesting cove or cliff, time is taken to absorb the splendour. Also the cliff edges are dangerous so we walk slowly and take care. Today we see at various times a baboon scout near to our tea spot, Tok Tokkies (this is a scarab beetle that reacts to the tapping of a finger just behind it), Dung Beetles, rock Kestrel, gulls and crows, jelly fish and blue bottles, a chameleon (verkleurmannetjie), a few pairs of the endangered Oyster Catchers, Cape Robin, the Southern Boubou (with it’s delightful call), three Klipspringer that Barbara and Jap see whilst the rest of us see only the spoor. Gerald and I do some close up exploring of the cliff while Trevor shows his cliff climbing ability as he descends to a huge cave below. Today we make a tea stop just as the Springbok rugby team is beating the Samoans something like 60 to 10.

We reach Stilgat at 12.00 and descend the chain ladder leaving our packs at the top. Fortunately Trevor has his torch with him and we are able to explore the caves. Here we see what we think are bats, stalactites (top) and stalagmites (bottom) and strange looking caterpillars. The pools have the largest blue bottles that I have ever seen but Trevor braves these and the cold water for a swim. Jap is at the top and responds to a “dare”. He clambers down the ladder rushes across to the pool, persuades Trevor to get back into the water then promptly grabs poor Trevor’s clothes. So to our great delight and amoungst much laughter Trevor has to climb the ladder dressed only in a pair of bright yellow jocks. I find a well worn plank and a mess of rope. These I carry on to the Hammerkop hut so that we can add our mark to this hut. At Stilgat we begin our whale spotting. We also see what is known as tail lobbing. A whale quite a distance out to sea is slapping its tail repeatedly onto the water surface and then after a count of 5 we are able to hear the slapping sound. It seems that this may be a form of communication and used by whales to stun the fish. Many of the whales we see seem to be in pairs. We think that it is the mother and calf. After a short beach walk we reach Hammerkop hut. It is a beautiful hut overlooking the beach where swimming is not really possible. And as we have come to expect when we get there at about 16.00 our bags are waiting for us. A huge disappointment is that there is not hot water. We think that this is due to a lack of water pressure. Jap starts the fire and Bill takes an early dose of medicine. While sitting at the fireside we see three whales giving us a demonstration of tail and flipper slapping. These whales are very close to the shore, just off the breakers. Jap does the fire thing and he also brands the plank that I carried with the Voetsac Hiking club’s name. This is mounted at the entrance to the hut. Today was a long day. Not in distance but it was our first full day of sunshine and we did a lot of exploring so everyone is pretty clapped and shortly after sunset at 20.00 most of us are in bed.

DAY FOUR------HAMMERKOP TO VAALKRAANS HUT 8kays

This morning I walk up the jeep track for about a half hour to see if I can get cell phone reception. It is a tough walk but eventually I am able to SMS my family and the running group who are in Athens to run the Greek marathon. Bill is worried about the heat and the long beach trek that is ahead of us so we set off at 07.30 this morning. Some of us are barefoot, others in sandals or boots. I am not sure which was the best choice but I enjoyed the sand and water on my feet. We have barely started when Bill is caught by a wave and swept off his feet. And loses his stick (given to him by Round Table). Fortunately Judy finds it washed up a little further on. Today we see about 18 pairs of Oyster Catchers. We also see plenty of Terns, Gulls and Sandpipers.

This morning we hike beaches and pathways for about three hours and come to a sign with an apple. We presume that this is the location of the blowholes. I have a swim here but it is not really pleasant as there is only a shelf but helps to cool down on a hot day. This becomes a tea stop but most spectacular of all are the two blow holes that can be seen from the rocks above. The ocean rushes into these two small holes in the rock shelf creating the most entertaining water showers. Ruth is at her very best with cries of Yahooo, Oh Wow, who pee? And other exclamations of delight. After an hour we press on. I have retrieved myself another piece of rope and Trevor rescues a buoy and later on a soft children’s ball. We reach this our last hut at 13.00. This hut is situated on the edge if the cliff and it appears that we are on an overhang with very little between us and the ocean. Next to the hut is a hole. If you are prepared to stick your head into the hole you can see the sea below. Ruth discovers this phenomenon and (to the amusement of those parking out in the kitchen) calls all to marvel at this wonder of nature. Today we estimate that we have probably seen between 20 to 30 whales since Noetsie. This evening is filled with chatter and laughter. The last of the alcohol is consumed with the evening snacks which include Pringles, p-nut and raisins, smoked oysters, mature cheddar on biscuits and avocado on rye. Who says that porterage of the bags is not the way to go? This hut also has an upstairs but Peter is unable to fit through the narrow stairway so they usurp the bunks of Jap and Christine who move mattresses to the kitchen. The buoy that Trevor has carried is roped to a beam in the kitchen roof and the soft ball is adorned with our names and Jap makes a sling and this too is mounted above the kitchen counter. The wind is howling outside so there is not too much objection to those wanting to remain indoors for the afternoon after a welcome hot shower with a bit of reading and general chit chat. A problem with this hut is the flies. They are everywhere and the hut needs mesh on the windows and doors as well as fly strips or liberal quantities of Doom. Fortunately they are not evening creatures and we have a peaceful evening.

DAY FIVE------VAALRAKNS TO KOPPIE ALLEEN. 7kays

It is our last day. By now it seems that the whole team is used to an early start so by 07.00 we are ready to go. The hike today is mainly along pathways. There is a beach walk but is seems that there is not much enthusiasm for anymore soft sand walking. It is only a 3 hour walk even including some stops but we must be at the finish by 12.00 to catch the bus back to Potberg camp. The early morning excitement is a baboon spider lurking at the entrance to the hut. It is eventually left alone to carry on with its life. Shortly after we start we see Klipspringer spoor on the trail. Barbara leads the group and is able to spot the pair as they check us out from about 100meters away. Today we also see whale breaching. This is the whale jumping out of the water completely. We have also seen some “spy hopping” where the whale sticks his head out of the water to “check the scene out”.

The highlight of today’s hike is finding some whale bones on a beach below. We loosen a whole lot of them, carry them up to the trail and make ourselves a whale spinal cord adorned with rib bones. If left alone by other hikers this will make a very good photo spot. We get to Koppie Alleen by 10.00. We seem to have missed a turn somewhere and end up at the training facility so walk down to the information centre where other tourists have gathered to do some whale watching. We have ourselves a bit of lunch and while waiting for the bus we see about 12 whales passing by. The bus is a school bus from the local Ouplaas primary school which has only 25 pupils. The bus is driven by Adele Du Toit who is a “mom”, a farmer and runs a B & B. The 35km drive back to Potberg takes an hour. Adele provides a cooler box with ice cold beverages. At the gate to De Hoop Barbara and Pat purchase a badge. At Potberg we meet Nomfundo who is very responsive to written report back that I have prepared.

POTBERG TO PE ---550km

On the advice of the mechanic back in PE we check the engine to see if we can see oil which we can and so decide that despite the flashing oil light we will press on back home. Trevor is less fortunate and has a flat tyre. We decide to drive back in convoy and this reassures both of us. Before leaving Potberg we drive back to the parking area to see if there was any oil leakage where the combi was parked. There was none but what we did find was Gerald’s backpack lying next to the hut. We bid Peter and Judy goodbye as they are carrying on for a week’s holiday and tour of the wine-lands of the Western Cape. We decide to take the pontoon route through Malgas again. Here we receive an SMS that all the runners have finished the Greek marathon. Tracey says it is the toughest in her life. At Heidelberg we stop at the same little shop where we purchased the most delicious biltong and Gerald buys a memento. The drive back to PE is great in that it is uneventful. We are all home by 21.30.


Peter Giddy
5 November 2003