Tuesday, August 29, 2017

GARDEN ROUTE TO CAPE TOWN. By Peter Giddy Guided Tours. August 2017

Peter Giddy Guided Tours -- peter.giddy@gmail.com
In association with SA Guided Tours  petergiddy@saguidedtours.com

August 2017
Garden Route Tour with fun activities
  • Airport and Hotel Transfer
  • Surfing in Jeffreys Bay
  • Zip Line in Tsitsikamma
  • Storms River Bridge
  • Bungy Jumps at the Blaukraans bridge
  • Plettenbergbay
  • Robberg Walking trail to the Seals Lookout point
  • Monkey Land and Birds of Eden
  • Storms River mouth and Suspension Bridges
  • Quad Bike riding in Wilderness
  • Oudtshoorn Ostrich farm; feeding of Giraffe and Riding the Ostrich
  • Oudtshoorn Cango Caves Heritage and Adventure Trails
  • Kingfisher walking trail to the Waterfall
  • Whale watching in Hermanus
  • Sedgefield Saturday Market.
  • Whale Watching from a boat and from the promenade in Hermanus
  • Fat Biking in Gansbaai
  • Surfing in Muizenberg
  • Penguins at the Boulders Beach Simonstown
  • Table Mountain
  • The Company Gardens
  • The South African (Natural Arts) Museum and Planetarium
  • Some tribal and political history of South Africa
  • Climbing Lions Head
  • Shopping at the Waterfront
  • Cape Peninsular and Cape of Good Hope
  • Lighthouse and Whales
  • Kommetjie road, Chapmans Peak and Kirstenbosch Gardens.
  • Dinner at the Press Restaurant in Sea Point and then Waterfront wandering
  • Jewish Museum and shopping at Century City.

This will be my family and friends for the next ten days

Tamara; Guy; Gil; Ori; Neomi and Amir


20 August 2017
I meet up with the Family at the Port Elizabeth Airport.  We arrange the hired vehicle documents and I take the family to their Guest House -- Millbury where they are greeted by Denis and Colleen and shown to a couple of beautiful rooms that surround the pool.
Jeffreys Bay.  Surfing instructions
In the water. Standing up is not easy the first time around but with a bit of practice they were getting the hang of being in the water and on the boards.
Monday morning.  We start our tour at 8.30am. 
We drive in a westerly direction and make our first stop in Jeffreys Bay.  We find the Surf Shop where we can hire boards and wet suites and a couple of instructors.  This morning it will be Ori; Guy; Tamara and Amir who are going to take to the water.  They are novices at surfing and after a briefing are into the water. 
Within a short while they are surfing and having a great time.  We spend most of the morning here and end with some Hot Chocolate.
The first few crossings are slow and easy.  Afterwards the speed and length picks up.
Zip Lines are a fun activity .... Safe but needing a small amount of fitness
The instructors or guides show us "the ropes"
Our next stop is in Tsitsikamma where we do the Adventure Falls Zip Lining.  This time it is the whole family who takes part in this fun activity. Raymond and Heinrich are our guides and we are soon zipping back and forth across the river and falls below.
The Storms River as seen from the Bridge
Paul Sauer or Storms river Bridge.
Looking down to the Storms River below from the bridge on the N2

We stop off at the Storms River (Paul Sauer) Bridge.  330ft long and 400 ft Deep.  Built 1954-1956..  And then a stop off at the Bungy Bridge -- The Blaukraans Bridge. The bungy is 216m and is the highest commercial bungy world wide. Some Souvenir Shopping and this basically ends our day.  Overnight for the next three nights will be in Plettenbergbay where they have hired a home which turns out to be a kind of Tuscanny Villa with wonderful views of the Keurbooms Lagoon.
I go for a short run this morning in the rain and wind.
The Piesang River.  It was here that our family used to bring our caravan and pitch tents before heading off to the beaches. Ian was a Plett lifeguard. Patrick and I had amazing holidays just playing on the beach.
Anne stays at the River Club Villas (the old Piesang Caravan Park) and runs a BnB from here.
Tuesday morning I start the day with a short run.  It is cold and I am kind of forced to turn around with strong winds and rain making it unpleasant.  Pick up is for 8.30 and after breakfast we get going around 10am.  Our day starts with visiting Monkeyland.  This is a successful outing but the wind and rain has everyone shivering so instead of going to the Birds of Eden we spend the rest of the morning at a shopping mall in Knysna after which we go back to Plett.  Some take a walk on the beach and others merely try to warm up back in the house.
Monkey land with our guide -- Piwe.
This swing bridge is reported to be 130 m long and 20m deep and as such the longest in SA?
Wednesday -- I am staying at Anne's BnB
The day starts with a Robberg Hike. As we drive there we can see the devastating effect of the June 2017 fires where complete houses were burnt to the ground. Families lost everything.

We walk from the parking area along the pathway to the Gap and then onwards on the eastern side pathway where we look down to see a huge colony of Comorant. It is a short walk from there to see the Seals below. 
We take the Sand dune short cut to the Island.  I run down with Ori and Amir.  We walk around the Island followed by the rest of the family.  I am most impressed with their energy.
From there we take the western side to return to the car. It becomes cold and windy as we are exposed to the weather coming from the west.
 Neomi climbs the pathway between the Gap and the Seals lookout
 Cape Fur Seal information.  From here you see the seals on the rocks below
 We cross the dunes and walk in a westerly direction to the Island.  And then walk around the Island on the Boardwalk
  Neomi; Guy and Tamara complete the Island walk.
 Family -- On the beach fooling around.  In the background is the Island.
The Birds of Eden turn out to be a huge success.
Our next stop is the Birds of Eden.  It seems that this activity is enjoyed by all as the reports are positive after two hours in the sanctuary. 
Our final stop of the day is at the Storms River mouth where we walk to the Suspension bridges.  It is unfortunate that the weather and huge swells means that the river cruise is not taking place and that we are too late to do the Kayaking.
 The Suspension bridge that crosses the Storms river mouth
 This afternoon it is stormy weather, cold, wind and rain have dampened the afternoon and huge swells cause these enormous waves. Crashing on the rocks and even spraying onto the bridge where a couple of us were walking.
Tamara and Guy enjoy a bit of a detour and the views of the wild seas
Thursday 24th.
We pack up and leave Plett.  Drive through to George and then over the Outeniqua pass to Oudtshoorn.  Another cold and wet day.
Tamara feeding the Giraffe.  It is a bit of a dirty activity as the long black tongues of the Giraffe tend to leave your hands feeling yucky.
 Neomi; Gil and Ori looking at the Ostrich Eggs.  Each one is the equivilant of about 24 chicken eggs. An ostrich eggs takes hours to boil.  The chance of a successful hatching is not good as up to 30 eggs are laid while only about half will hatch and then predators are a constant danger to the chicks. It is about 2 years before it is possible to determine the sex of an ostrich chick.
 Letitia is our Guide.  She completed high school in 2016 and has been working off and on at the ranch and is now full time employed together with Johannes in the office.
Feeding of the young ostriches.
As we approach Oudtshoorn we stop off at the Chandelier Ostrich farm.  Here Ostriches are not farmed but they are on show with a tour and explanations by Letitia. Also working in the office is Johannes.  Feeding of the Giraffe and Guy doing Ostrich riding are highlights.
 The Cango Caves are always a treat.  These magnificent formations leave me breathless every time I see them.
The Heritage Cave Trail starts every hour and is one hour long.  The Adventure Cave trail starts every half hour and is 90 minutes long. 

 We do the Caves Heritage trail with Eric as our guide who sings us through the tour.  Finally we arrive at their accommodation in Wilderness at about 7pm. I am staying in Sedgefield.  This evening I battle to find the place I am staying and then no one answers their phones to let me in.  It is after 8pm and I am getting tired and frustrated when I finally find another number on a previous email and discover that I am at the wrong house and find the correct place which is an apartment. I discover I have left my take away supper with the family so go to a restaurant where I purchase a couple of beers and a take away Spaghetti Boglonaise for my supper.  A little later I am in bed and exhausted.
I have an apartment in Sedgefield at Hennies Hof.  Nice and central -- no vehicle required when walking to the village nearby.
Friday 25th.  Last Saturday I bumped my chin bone as I was climbing the stands to sit with Chris and Elmarie at Grey Rugby.  It has been sore but this morning I can hardly walk it is so  sore.  I soon realise that the pain recedes as it warms up.  I think that I may have a hairline fracture as the leg is bruised and tender. I am also having trouble with my lips that I must have sunburned on a hike last week. They are cracked and it is painful to eat and drink.  So this morning I am feeling a little sorry for myself.


Meet up with the family and we all go to the Quad Bikes venue on the N2.  Charlene is behind the counter and we sign up for a 15km ride.  I stay behind and have a coffee with the Owner (Johnny).  Unfortunately Gil and his family have a negative experience with the bikes.  Quad bikes need constant maintenance and the nature of this activity is that the bikes get a hammering.  There are two guides with the group and they have to do repairs and swap bikes on five different occasions.  So while the trail is great the reliability of the bikes is a big problem creating a negative experience for our group.
 The Half Collared Kingfisher trail begins from the old rail bridge and continues on the west bank of the Touws river.

 We see these pictures of birds as we hike. Here is the Southern Boubou which is so common in the Addo Elephant park
 This is a common Sunbird in this area. We have already seen them around the house where the family is staying.
 A good portion of the hike is on a boardwalk. This makes the hiking so much easier than when on the trails. Here is Tamara enjoying the walk.
  There is no longer a Giant Kingfisher Trail.  It is now the Half collared Kingfisher trail but they both end at the waterfalls.
 On the way out, if you prefer to do the slightly easier trail this is where you should look for the Pontoon to the right. 
This is the only Km Marker.  After this the trail seems to go on forever, especially on the way out towards the Falls
From the Quads we drive back to Wilderness where we do the Half Collared Kingfisher Trail.
This trail is easy to find as you drive along the Touws River with the boardwalk on your right until you reach the old Rail Bridge.  There is a little Kiosk where you register (International visitors pay R110pp).
Important information -- Ask for a map; Take sufficient water and a snack. On a Summers day I suggest a litre of water pp. Allow for a four hour walk.  This gives you plenty of time to enjoy the walk and the waterfall where it is possible to swim in Summer. A reasonable amount of fitness is required.
The walk starts on the left bank of the Touws River from the Rail Bridge.  Some of the walk is easy pathways and boardwalk but there are sections of ups and downs on the trail where you are using your hands to steady yourself.  You pass the sign to the Yellow Wood Picnic site.  If you turn Right here then you take the Pontoon and an easier walk.  However we continued straight on and finally had to cross the stream with a couple of hops and jumps to avoid getting feet wet.  After heavy rains I imagine you will either take your shoes off or you will have wet shoes.
 The falls are quite special and worth the effort in getting there.
 Ori and Tamara at the falls
 After a while the whole family joins us -- a real victory to have everyone make it to the end of this reasonably tough hike.
Once we cross at the "stepping Stones we begin the walk along the boardwalk.  Here there are many sections of tough steps to climb and the walk seems endless. The sound of water flowing over the rocks soothes our tired limbs to an extent.   However after a further half hour we are finally rewarded with a sign that reads "Waterfall" and then a bit later we arrive at the falls.  The walk has been worthwhile as the falls are something to see and experience.  The whole family makes it to the end and we spend a short while enjoying the views.
 The Olive Thrush is a bird we commonly find at our home.  Scratching in the leaves for insects and fruit fallen from the trees.
 On the return walk this makes the Pontoon easy to find.
 You have to pull it back from the other side when the last hikers were going in the same direction as you are walking.
A map of the hike indicates where you are but, me, it does not seem to be in proportion.
It reads -- Start opposite the purification plant alongside the rail/road bridge near to Ebb & Flow and follow the western bank of the Touws river.  The path finishes at a point where the river becomes a narrow and shallow stream and an option of crossing the river via Pontoon or stepping stones.  Total distance 7.2km.
 On the return walk we end up at the Pontoon. 
 Its a fun and unique experience to cross the river on the Pontoon.
The walk back is at a fast pace.  There is supposed to be an evening market in Wilderness on a Friday evening with live music.  So while we took 90 minutes to walk to the falls we take just 60 minutes to return.  The return walk is mainly on the East Bank of the Touws river up to the Pontoon.  We pull the Pontoon back to our side of the river and then we all (seven of us) board the raft and pull ourselves over to the other side.  This is another activity which you don't want to miss. Something that you rarely experience in our world of technology, simple activities like this creates a special occasion.  The return walk is much easier and if you prefer an easier walk then it is probably better to do the Pontoon section both out and back.
The Wilderness Village Market opens on Friday evenings.  It is a curio Market in the earlier evening.  Later there is live music and, as the square is surrounded by pubs and restaurants, it becomes quite festive.
Back in Wilderness we find the square where the Market is being set up.  Perhaps we are too early but it is not very exciting and we don't stay.  Gil finds a massage while the rest of us wait and stop at a coffee shop. I drop the family off at the house and drive back to Sedgefield for another early night. I am again exhausted. 

Saturday morning.  A bit of a late morning for me as I catch up on some admin and continue reading the book that Ori gave me to read.  The English Spy by Daniel Sigal.
I drive to the Sedgefield Saturday Market.  Barbara and I have been here before.  It is quite special with a huge variety of stalls.  Fresh vegetables; Meat; Prepared and bottled foods as well as cosmetics. Cheese; Pesto; Pate; Honey and dried fruit; Cakes and tarts; savouries and delectable dishes; Coffee and tea; Oysters and other seafoods; Complete breakfasts.
I end up spending about R400 to R500 on goodies. Some for now and some to take home. 

Back in my apartment I watch some old movies and end the day with a walk to the Pick N Pay to purchase a bit of supper and a couple of beers.  I meet up with this man of the road. We start chatting and I end up giving him something to eat.  He seems quite philosophical about his situation and despite his smells and dishevelled looks he speaks well.

The drive from Wilderness to Hermanus takes us 4 hours.  It is a beautiful drive at this time of year with the bright yellow Canola Fields and mountainous background
The whale watching office where  we meet at 10.30 for a briefing before boarding the boat

  Boarding the whale watching boat
 The Whale Watchers is an enclosed boat and ideal for the windy weather today
They head out to sea for a two hour trip

Sunday morning.  I am up early to pick the family up at 6am.  We drive to Hermanus to be in time for the Whale Watching at 10.30.  After that we spend some time on the waterfront promenade where we see whales reasonably close to the old harbour. It is not an uncommon sighting at this time of year. But today there is a chilly breeze as well as rough seas and so spotting whales is not that easy.
 
 Looking down to the Old Harbour where we see whales close to shore
 The family spotted a whale but only fleetingly
 The Old Harbour was the centre of a thriving fishing industry for than 100 years after fishermen from Herries Bay (Near Stanford) had settled here in the 1850's.
 After our whale watching from the shore front promenade we had a lunch and then drove across the bay to Gans Baai where the family went on a Fat Bikes trail with Fritz. 
The report back was that this was a great, but physically exhausting, activity as the first part is on single track and managing these huge bikes is a new experience where falling is a given.  But then zooming on the sand dunes was exhilarating.  We started a bit late so the ride ended in the setting sun and then the dark.  For me, living on the east coast, it is strange to watch the sun sink into the ocean.

A long day ended and I stayed over in the Hermanus Backpackers which is quite adequate for a night.
Hermanus is a lovely village with plenty of activity.  A bustling and active shore front with this long Promenade from the New Harbour across to the Old Harbour and beyond.  The village centre has a variety of shops and eating places. 
 Loading of the Luggage into the back of the H1 takes a bit of skill but today I think we mastered it and had the best fit possible
 Stop off at the top of Sir Lowries Pass to look down to Somerset West and False Bay
 We did a bit of a climb to get the best view possible
 Next stop is Muizenberg where we hire boards and wetsuits for a two hour surfing lesson.
 Into the waves of the beach and soon getting the hang of a board.
 Boulders Beach to view penguins is a popular tourist attraction.
 Penguins sunning themselves on the boulders.
 A penguin and her chick
 The Dias (Diaz) cross is a symbol of the first European Settlers to the Cape.
Standing proud on the skyline near Platboom in the Cape Point reserve, the Dias Cross not only commemorates a past explorer but acts as a navigational aid to ships sailing in False Bay. If lined up with other reference points on the peninsula it indicates a shallow reef named Whittle Rock, a hazard to vessels in False Bay.
 Table Mountain cable car with a clear view of the mountain above.
Welcome to Table Mountain -- An official new 7 wonder of nature.
Devils Peak 1000M;  Macalears beacon highest point 1085m; Platteklip Gorge where a relatively easy hike to the mountain starts on the Cable Way road. Upper cable station at 1067m. 12 Apostles; Lions Head 669m.
The cable car carries 65 people or 800 people per hour at 10meters per second.
 Devils Peak to the east.
 Cape Town and Signal Hill from the cable car.
 Lions Head and Signal Hill to the west of the peninsular.
 An aerial view of table bay and Robben Island.
The Aloes in full bloom on top of the mountain.
The family below the restaurant looking across to the 12 apostles.  From here you are able to follow a free guided tour between 9am to 3pm. Unfortunately we missed the last one.
Monday 28th August.  We leave Hermanus. We planned to drive to Betty's Bay to view the Penguins but this did not work out as there were protests on the road to Kleinmond and we were turned around to take the Houw Hoek Road. Stop off at the top of Sir Lowries Pass to view False Bay and the approach to Cape Town below.
We drive past the vast shack areas of Kayalietsha and on to Muizenberg where the younger group take a second lesson in Surfing.  It is an exhausting two hours for them but the rewards are that they begin to stand and make positive progress.
We continue on the False Bay coast road past Fish Hoek to Simonstown and Boulders Beach to view the Penguins. The Penguins are the African (Jackass Penguin) which is the only penguin found in SA. We see breeding pairs and Chicks. Mostly they are in the bushes or sunning themselves on boulders. We also see some of them swimming in the shallows.
After the Penguins we drive across Ou Kaapse Weg towards Cape Town and then past Rondebosch and the University to the Table Mountain Cable Car.  The last car goes up at 5pm and down at 6pm.  This afternoon is about as good an opportunity as we will ever have.  It is reasonably warm with clear skies that allow us views across the city below as well as views of the 12 Apostles and Camps Bay.
This evening I am staying with Patrick. Julia is here for a bit of a Holiday. The family stays in an Apartment complex at the entrance to the Waterfront.

A statue in front of the SA Museum
 The Gardens have plenty of interesting pieces to view
 General Jan Smuts in front of the National Art Gallery.
 Cecil John Rhodes
 The Company Gardens. List of all the points of interest
 The SA Museum.

Nguni and Zulu nation of Natal
The history of the Nguni in Natal in the 19th Century is dominated by the Zulu who rose to power by the military genius of their famous chief Shaka. Before his time they had been of minor importance and had owed allegiance to Dingiswayo. the Mthethewa chief who, largely through the his reform of the army had consolidated under his paramountcy all the tribes between the Tugela and the Umfulozi rivers. Shaka. although the son of the Zulu chief, had not been wanted by his own people, grew up elsewhere, finally amoung the Mthethewa. He drafted into Dingiswayo's army where he soon distinguished himself as a fearless warrior. After the death of his father in 1816 he began a systematic extension of power until most of the people in Natal were either brought under his dominion, destroyed or had fled elsewhere. To the surrounding Chiefdoms this was a reign of terror but to the Zulu army a time of glory. Shaka was assassinated by his half brother Dingane in 1828. His successors had neither his genius nor his strength but so strong was the foundation that he had laid that it was half a century before Zulu power was broken by stronger forces. Even when, with the peace, many Natal Nguni groups returned the Zulu glory lived on and much of the uniformity of culture that resulted from Zulu influence has remained.

The forces set in motion by Shakas wars of expansion had widespread effect which was felt as far west as Botswana and as far north as lake Tanganyika.  Movements occurred in two directions. In the south and west the Hlubi, Bhele, Zizi and others moved along the Drakensberg. Some into Lesotho but more into the Transkei where they became known as the Mfengu - Homeless Wanderers. Flight into the northern direction was notably by three groups led by the outstanding military chiefs: Mzilikazi. Shoshangane and Zwangendaba.
The best known was Mzilikazi. In 1822 he led a small following. mainly of fighting men to the northern Transvaal. Later on they moved to the western Transvaal and finally north into the present Rhodesia.  They spread destruction as they went and for security laid the country waste in a large circle around their settlements. On the other hand their success attracted followers so the force that reached Rhodesia was larger than that which left Natal. They became known as the Matabele. So firmly did they establish themselves and their culture in Rhodesia that even after the overthrow of Mzilikazi's son and successor, Lobengula they retained their identity as a people.
Shoshangane led his people into Mocambique where they conquered and absorbed my of the local Tsonga and established their rule in Gasaland.
Zwangendaba and his people had also fled north and eventually crossed the Zambezi. Many continued as far north as Lake Tanganyika. Others settled near lake Malawi where their descendants are known as Ngoni

In the 19th century the whole Zulu nation was organised into what might be called a great military camp by Shaka, who expanded the existing organisation of men in age sets into much larger regiments, each of which operated as a unit, had its own name, war cry and distinctive dress and its own military barracks built on the same lines as the royal homestead.
Shaka changed both the aim and the method of war. His aim was more than to gain superiority, it was to annihilate opposition. His most effective reform in means of attach we the replacement of the long spears, thrown from a distance, by a single short stabbing spear (Assegai) for close combat.
The Zulu army never went to war without being specially strengthened by the chiefs doctors nor without offering sacrifices to the ancestors of the tribes.
Spiritual strengthening was combined with sound strategy in battle. Following the tactics learned from Dingiswayo, Shaka's warriors were drawn up in a semi circle -- a horn on either side of a central chest.  One horn feigned attack while the other, at first concealed in the bush, surrounded the enemy.  At this stage the most experienced men advanced from the centre and usually defeated their opponents or caused them to flee.




The Native Land Act of 1913
The Native land act of 1913 came into effect in South Africa on 19.6.1913. It regulated the ownership and leasing of land by people classified as Natives and also prevented Europeans from acquiring land in the areas designated for Natives.
The act was the first major piece of legislation to institutionalise racial segregation in South Africa and became a fundamental part of the oppressive apartheid system. It was drafted by General Hertzog in 1912 but was piloted through parliament by JW Sauer. a Liberal who opposed disenfranchisement of the African People.
Under the act occupation of land by Natives was restricted to reserves in the eastern part of South Africa. This covered 16 million hectares about 14% of the country. The act also limited the number of share- croppers and tenants of white owned farms outside of the Cape Province.
At first the act was not applied in the Cape as it would have would have reduced African Voting rights which had been entrenched by the South African Act of 1910 or in the Orange Free State where Africans were already prevented from owning land. In 1936 however the Native trust and Land act made the Native land act applicable throughout South Africa.
Territorial segregation was further entrenched by a series of acts of parliament including the Urban areas act of 1923 and the Group areas act of 1950. As well as those which excluded Black South Africans from representation in Parliament and transformed reserves into Homelands. Further legislation set up a colour bar in mining and industry, established separate educational systems and overall attempted to limit all social interaction.

The Native Land Act and other segregationist legislation were repealed on 30.6.1991 under the abolition of racially based land measures act of 1991 when negotiated on a political settlement and new constitution were under way.
The passage of the Natives Land act was primarily to satisfy the demands for low wage labour by local and British mining companies and by farmers. A class of South Africans called Poor Whites was then being forced off the land and the land Legislation prevented Africans form purchasing land outside of the reserves or living as share croppers on farms.
The South African Native national congress a forerunner of the African National Congress was formed in 1912 in response to the act by a remarkable group of African Lawyers, clerics, teachers, a newspaper editor and a number of chiefs. It also opposed the imposition of passes and the denial of opportunities to urbanised Africans. It was however ineffective in preventing parliament from passing the Act.

In National Party legislation after 1948 the reserves demarcated under the Natives land Act were declared Homelands for different groups of African People. The Bantu Authorities Act of 1951
established systems of Local Government that incorporated Traditional Leaders acceptable to the National Party government. The promotion of Bantu Self Government act of 1959 recognised 10 national units that could be granted independence by the SA Government. Every Black South African (Not Indians or Coloured) was made a citizen of one of these ethnic based homelands. Even those with residence  rights in White South Africa.
By the time Apartheid was abolished in the 1990s it is estimated that 3.5million people had been removed from their homes and resettled elsewhere. the homelands were abolished in the 1990s but the former reserves remain as impoverished under developed and largely communal areas in six of the nine current SA provinces


After visiting the SA Museum we decided to walk up, as far as possible, the Lions Head.  The road is from the Neck between Table Mountain and Lions head halfway up towards Signal Hill. Once you begin the easy part of the walk you are rewarded with some great views of the city below.
Here we look back at Camps Bay
After a while the pathway becomes a bit more difficult with steps and steeper gradients.
It was a bit of a chilly afternoon with a cold westerly and mist
Driving home after dropping Ori I was stuck in traffic. One of the reasons that living in Cape Town is not nearly as easy as my home town of PE.

Tuesday 29th.  It is St John's 20th Birthday.  He is home from Rhodes University but we don't see him as he is having fun with some of his pals.

My day starts with picking up the family and then dropping them off at the bottom of the Company Gardens. I drive around to the top and park near to the Jewish Museum where I find a place to park for the day if I wish. I walk around to the Gardens and meet the family at the SA Museum.  It is drizzling and I buy myself a coffee at the Gardens Restaurant. The family spend a couple of hours exploring the Museum. A worthwhile activity where a huge amount is to be learned including a visit to the Planetarium if you wish.  I am always interested in the early history of SA. As Gil points out: there is no written history of the Nguni people before the Settler Period when the Europeans began to record their understanding and point of view.

After the Gardens and Museum we decide we have had enough of indoors and, although the weather is not great, it is no longer raining so we drive across to Lions Head and walk up the pathway.  The path and climb begins on the Easterly side of the mountain and contours around in a clockwise direction first towards Camps Bay and then around to Sea Point and when we reach the part overlooking Cape Town we turn around.  Some of the family has had enough of this hike and while we are a long way from the real climb, we have done a complete circle of the mountain and a solid bit of walking.

It is now time for a bit of Waterfront Shopping so I drop the family on the west side of the Waterfront and Ori and I drive to Sea Point where we have lunch at the Press Restaurant.  This is a good "getting to know you" time for the two of us.  It is 6pm by the time we try to drive back to the Eastern Side of the Waterfront. Bumper to Bumper traffic.  I finally reach Patrick just before 7pm.  He is having a bit of a Birthday Celebration for St John (who is not at the celebration but this does not stop us). This evening Melissa (Mariaan's twin sister), Orcelia a friend and Caz. Mariaan's brother, Simon's, wife (who lives in JHB and is in Cape Town for a business meeting) are with us for supper.
We turned off to the False Bay view site in the hope of seeing whales but it was only at the lower lighthouse at the point where whales were seen.
 The False Bay Lookout with Tamara; Guy; Gil; Ori; Neomi and Amir
 
 At the Cape Point lookout.  The day begins a bit wet and cold but warms up to be a stunning day
 The Cape Point is almost on the same line Latitude as Port Elizabeth
 The Light house.  Unfortunately a bit scratched and dirty
 Looking back to the Cape Of Good Hope lookout point.  It is possible to walk from there up to the Light house if you are feeling energetic.
 
 The lighthouse and surrounding areas are busy with people from all over the globe. Languages and cultures from everywhere can be encountered here.
 After the Cape Point we drive back via Chapmans Peak. Here we look over Hout Bay
 Looking back at the road which was closed earlier due to possible rock falls. As we drove here this afternoon there were a number of "lookout men" checking for any possible hazzards
 We end up at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens
 Strelitzia  -- An Icon of SA Floral displays
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens Main Building.  What I like to do is to drop people off at the top entrance and allow them to walk down to the main parking area.
Wednesday..  It has been raining all night and I am a bit slack getting going.  Julia leaves for Hermanus. By the time I fetch the family the sun is shining and so we have a great day at the Point.  At first no whales but when the family goes to the lower lighthouse they see plenty of whales.  After this we drive the Kommetjie road back and then Chapmans peak to Hout bay and over to Kirstenbosch Gardens which is the final activity for the day.  A last bit of shopping before I drop them off at the restaurant for dinner.
The Cape Floristic region Protected areas Site is one of 154 natural world Heritage sites. This region is also one of the worlds main hotspots of biodiversity
Tom helps me with the rusk making at Patrick and Marianne in Claremont.
I have supper with Patrick and Marianne and we make rusks as a kind of celebration of St John's birthday.
I check the Hyundai H1 in at the Avis Counter.

Thursday.... Our last day together. 
Some of the family visit the Jewish Museum (which proves to be a positive experience) while the girls are off shopping at Century City Mall.  We finally leave Century city in time for flights this afternoon..... Both Jhb and PE.  We are in good time for check in and say our farewells. 


Some History of South Africa as written at the Cape Point.
In 1847 Bartholomeu Dias sailed from Lisbon in three ships.  Passing the furthest discovered point near Namibia, he erected a Padrao on what is now known as Dia Point near Luderitz
From this point Dias sailed 13 days Southwards before strong winds freshened to dangerously stormy weather.  When the storm subsided he sailed easterly and failing to find land after several days search he turned north and struck the Cape Coast at Mossel Bay. He continued eastward as far as the Great Fish River in the Eastern Cape. By then the North- East trend of the coast became unmistakable. The way around Africa had been laid.

Having been very nearly shipwrecked, called his triumphant discovery the Cape of Storms, King John2 of Portugal, foreseeing the realisation  of the long sought passage to India gave it the enduring name of the Cape of Good Hope.

Vasco Da Gama
Ten years after Bartholomeu Dias' discovery, Vasco Da Gama ventured eastwards from the Cape. Sighting land on 25.12.1497 he named it Natal in honour of Christmas day.  In a matter of weeks he reached what is now Goa on the west coast of India.
Vasco Da Gama was the first man to find the all sea route to India and Europe's first commercial maritime empire was founded.

World War 2 and Radar
During WW2 South Africa assumed responsibility for defending the vital Cape sea route. This route was used to transport allied troops and supplies between East and West.  All were replenished at Cape Town and were continually at the mercy of around 30 enemy U boats.
At the outbreak of WW2 Dr Basil Schonland and his research team secretly used amateur radio parts to employ a new technology.  Radio detection and ranging (Radar), to combat the threat of U Boats. The first Radar was located on Signal Hill
Radar involves beaming radio pulses in a specific direction. Upon striking an object these pulses are reflected aback to register as echoes of Blips.
In 1942 the Special Signal Services second permanent radar station detected both surface vessels and aircraft. This station was one of three at the Cape Of Good Hope and one of 50 installations situated around the cape.
Increased submarine activity in 1943 resulted in the hurried installation of a special British radar at Cape Point -- ideal for detecting U Boat conning towers.
In 1944 a more sophisticated Radar Station was erected on Vasco Da Gama Peak.
Readings from the radar stations were coordinated in the SSS filter room at the Castle in Cape Town. Combined operations then decided on the appropriate action to be taken.

From 1941 to 1944 nearly 18 000 ships called in at Cape Town. Enemy U Boats sank 113 of them, virtually all outside the range of coastal radar. The SA Airforce attacked many U Boats but only three were confirmed as destroyed.

Khoekhoe and San (meaning "Different from us")
The Khoi were herders and farmers. The San were hunter- gatherers.
About 2000 years ago.  Long before the Nguni or the European settlers arrived in southern Africa. 
The Khoi and San ancestors had lived in southern Africa for tens of thousands of years. Clan names such as Nanaqua & Outeniqua.  The arrival of Colonists and Nguni ended the traditional lifestyle of the Khoi and San but many of their descendants still make a living off the sea.

CAPE POINT
Time line of Human Activity
One Million years ago:  Early stone age people were living here. There is evidence at three sites.
200 000 - 40 000 years ago:  Middle stone age people.. Scrapers and stone artefacts found at 6 sites
21 000 - 14 000 years ago:  Late stone age people.  over 100 sites, stone flakes, shell middens, pottery and cave dwellings.
1400 years ago to Present -- Khoikhoi herders
600BC. Phoenecians sailed around Africa from the Red Sea to the Straights of Gibraltar (Pillars of Hercules) recorded by Herodotus.
1488AD.  Bartholomeu Dias rounds the Cape of Storms
1498:  Vasco Da Gama opens the sea route to the east.
1500; Bartholomeu Dias first recorded shipwreck off the Cape
1519 - 1522:  the Victoria circles the world
1580:  Sir Francis Drake -- Second circumnavigation of the globe.
1652:  Jan van Riebeeck establishes a Replenishing station in Table Bay.
1687:  False Bay surveyed by Simon v d Stel
1738:  The first farmers at Cape Point
1741:  Simons bay used for calm water anchorage
1795:  the Battle of Muizenberg -- First British occupation
1806:  the battle of Blaauwberg -- Second British occupation
1814:  Simons Bay becomes the principle British Naval base in the Southern Hemisphere
1855 - 1929:  Livestock farming, Lime and Cement works, Fishery and Whaling station at Cape Point.
1857:  Cape Town is a busy Port.  over 700 ships a year, many of which rounded the Cape
1890:  A railway is built from Cape Town to Simons Town.  Imported produce put many local farmers out of business.
1914 - 1918 -- WW1.  Permanent lookouts at Cape Point
1915:  Coastal road from Simons Town to Cape Point -- resulted in a steady stream of visitors.
1939:  Cape of Good Hope nature reserve is proclaimed.
1939 - 1944:  WW11. The reserve is used for Military Manoeuvers.
1941.  SA's first fixed Radar is installed at the Cape Point.
2000:  the Cape of Good Hope incorporated into the Cape Peninsular National Park.















SATURDAY MARKET AT SEDGEFIELD
 I spend the morning at the Sedgefield Saturday Market.  Barbara and I have been here before so I was quite looking forward to this. I did a stupid thing and had some breakfast before coming so was not hungry for an immediate meal.  However I still managed to spend money and a number of stalls.
 The market is busy, music, families, shoppers and a general good vibe
 The Cheese man.
 Cakes and treats. 
 Sweets and chocolates
 I bought some fudge
 Cannot remember exactly what this was but everything looked delicious
This stall enticed me to buy some Liver and some Salmon Pate.

 I bought some Camembert and Blue Cheese from Ganzvlei
 Dried fruits and honey.  I bought some Mango and Fynbos Honey.... Barbara's favourite
 Falafel and Cherrmoula Chicken with Salads turned out to be my lunch which I had later
 A brandy snap and Apple Fritter I took home for tea.
 Everything is home made.  This stall specialises in Pesto -- I bought a tomato Pesto
 There are two parts to the Market.  The Wild Oats and the Mosaic Village.  This section is equally busy and active.
 People from the area love to socialise and check the market out.
 Another Falafel stall.  I simply could not buy everything, living from a tog bag does not allow for too much stuff.



1 comment:

  1. This blog is very good it is very useful for me Cape Town guided tours we all have learnt dance if you want to learn contact us

    ReplyDelete