MEALS ON ANY TRAIL ARE SUCH A CONSIDERED AND IMPORTANT EVENT. HERE IS MY SUPPER OF VEGETABLES, BAKED POTATO WITH MELTED CHEESE, CRUMBED AND BRAAI'D CHICKEN WASHED DOWN WITH A MUG OF RED WINE.
HARKERVILLE HIKING TRAIL JULY 2013
GRAHAM RICHARDS
FRED KOHLER
MARYNA BAARD
MARKUS HERR
PIETER MARAIS
CHRIS ARNOLD
Graham set this hike up when he learned that Christ would like to try out the Hiking activity. Chris's wife was originally going to be with us but decided that a nagging injury may play up and stop the enjoyment of the hike
Fred has just returned from a trip to Austria and was keen to join us as soon as he heard about this hike.
Maryna has been on some ultra hikes and described this to us in detail. THe Eden to Addo 18 day hike from Harkerville to Addo park. THen she did the Rim of Africa 12 day hike and then last year did a hike which ended in the Kalahari park on the border of Naminia.
Chris would be doing his first hike and Pieter seems to not have hiked for some time but has done some substantial trails such as Amatola.
I was in JHB and EL for the week and when I returned on Thursday evening went directly to the supermarket and bought provisions. I spent the evening packing and making ready for the hike. Friday I was at work until midday.
I then went home, collected my stuff with the last of the fresh stuff and loaded up to leave. Ally had been in Cape Town this week so it was not that easy to say goodbye to Barbara and her as I have not been home for so long. And we were introducing a new operating system at work which made going away even more difficult.
But I left, collected Maryna and Fred; then we all met at Chris' home in Fernglen. We left PE at 2pm. stopped at Jeffreys Bay for Petrol and then the next stop was Storms Rive. From there we drove straight to Harkerville which is on the Cape Town side of Plett.
Okay; so now we are at the Harkerville hut. We put the makings of the fire together and soon have a fire on the go. Unfortunately we are not able to sit in the Boma area as the smoke is swirling around and quite unbearable.
We reached the hut to find that someone had left a tap on and parts of the hut were flooded. We sorted ourselves out. Graham and Markus went to buy a grid. I got the fire going. And we had a fireside chat about lawyer stuff as we have three lawyers in the group. It was such a chilled evening. The wind had been blowing earlier on but dropped while we had the fire going. THere was almost no moon and the stare were as bright as you will ever see them.
I had packed a tin foil with potato mushroom and vegetables. And put a piece of crumbed chicken on the fire. I had a small red wine to go with this most delcious supper.
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day one. it is critical that the hikers are always aware and vigilant in looking out for the signs showing the way. Missing a turn like this one could add an hour or two to the day of hiking
A cup of coffee and rusk setttled the meal.
and then soon after washing I was ready for bed. I first caught up with some emails and work stuff and then settled under my sleeping bag. I was shocked to see that it was already 10;30. this is really late for a Hiker to go to sleep.
I woke up fresh and looking forward to two days of Trail. It is some time since we last hiked this trail. I know that I was here for my 50th Birthday.... 12 years ago. And I think that we have been on this hike since then but my memories are vague.
I had an early breakfast of Oats so Easy, Banana, coffee and rusk. I packed my stuff for the trail. Again I left anything that I felt was not 100% neccessary. I remember two things about this trail: You need extra water as there is no real fill up spot before the next hut and there are long climbs where you will need to hydrate yourself. The second thing I remember about this hike is to pack as light as possible. I once did the hike thinking that I can carry every possible luxury for a one nighter and really regretted it.
So I trimmed everything possible and filled up the water bottle. Now my trimming may not be the same as another person. For example I still .think that an essential is two large cans of beer, tinned muscles and a small bottle of wine. Why else am I hiking?
We set off at 8am. During winter you cannot leave much earlier as it is still dark. Fred leads the way. I think that the group took turns in being at the back with me. Graham and Maryna had the first spel. We were walking at a cracking pace of around 15 minutes a kay. The first section is through forest pathways and all under the canopy of indigenour trees. This section gives the hiker a false sense of confidence. It is the easiest part of the two days.
The Californian Redwood trees are quite spectacular. We use this as our first tea break of day one.
After about two hours we came out on a forest road. Here there is a small set of Californian Redwood Trees. Today, as we have done on previous occasions. And as most hikers who do this trail do: we stopped for a rest and some tea. Stopping for a break is one of the best parts of the hiking. You are able to chat, drink a warm beverage, eat a fruit or biscuit and just relax for a few minutes. As we sat here three lady joggers came past us. They looked like they were quite comforable in the forest, and running at an easy, kilometer eating, pace.
The next part of the hike continues through the forest until you come out at the top of the cliff face that leads to the beach below. Graham spotted some whales in the ocean below us. We stood for a while enjoying the view. We probably spotted between four and six whales. We speculated that there would have been female and calf whales grouping together with a bull slightly apart. Fred led the way down and waited for us. This descent is not an easy one and by the time I reached the bottom my legs felt quite shaky.
sitting around the fire at the Harkerville hut. This is what hiking is all about. Fellowship over supper and drinks. Stories are told and retold. Anything said on the trail stays on the trail. Unless of course I feel that society in general could benefit in which case the story is carried on to the WWW.
After a very brief rest we pressed on with the intention to stop for lunch after the chain ladder section. The tide was not high but we still had to climb up the ladder and along the looping chain. The chain was wet and slippery. I was last to make my way across this section and prefered to use the crevises in the rocks as handholds rather than the chains which may have given me some mental confidence but sticking my fingers into the rocks was what steadied me.
I had it in my mind that the worst thing possible would be to slip and fall. I may injure myself but I would definitely spoil the hike for everyone else. So I became deliberate with every step and every movement. I tested each foot and handhold before moving onwards. This section of rock climbing was testing. I was sweating from the exertion. Finally I made it around the rock to where the group was waiting. Fred kind of coached me down to the beach. We then continued up and over a number of rocks until we reached the spot that Markus had called the Green Spot. He was right.
Maryna starts the long descent to the shore line after the ten k walk through the forest
Here we take a break after the chain section of rock climbing.
I have a quick snack of Tuna and biscuits for lunch. I was feeling a bit wobbly but after a bit of protein am ready for the next few hours of rock climbing.
There was a nice lunch spot which had some green growth and was sheltered from the wind. Out came the stoves and Maryna made me some tea. I had packed myself Packet of Tuna, Processed Cheese and biscuits for the midday meals. This gives me protein and is quite filling. After lunch and a short nap I packed up ready for the next section. I left first thinking that the group will quickly catch me. I was right. It was not long before everyone passed me. Except Graham. We could see him a short way behind us. But the rocks obscure your sight of people so when I decided to wait for him. And after quite a long wait when he did not come around the rocks I went back to find him. Eventually I realised that some how he must have passed me.
So I followed the group. Today there is the first chain rock climb but after that there are a number of other sections where you have to use hands and feet to clamber across tricky sections. The first 10km had taken us around 2;30 hours. The next four kays took us about 4 hours. Finally I could see the group waiting for me at the foot of the final climb of the day. As you look up you can see the Z of the sign of Zorro. This means a long and hard climb is ahead.
I started first up the hill. One by one the group passed me. Sweat pouring off my brow. Stinging my eyes. Looking back to see the amazing vista and miles of ocean is quite a treat. Strangely enough you climb at a fast speed. Probably it is faster going up than the steep descent. For me the climb up is certainly easier. Finally reaching the top of the climb you have a kilometer of flat pathway to walk before walking into the wattle trees where the Sinclair hut is located. It was as I reached the hut that I drank the last of my 2.5 liters of water.
Not really easy to see but here I was looking at the Zorro sign ahead. I knew that it would not be too much further before I reached the base of the final climb up to the Sinclaire hut.
Markus and Graham are having sundowners before we get our supper going on the fire.
We arrived at the hut at around 3pm. This is a good time to be in the hut of any hike as it allows time for washing, chatting and cooking before it is too late. Especially in Winter when the days are so much shorter.
The men all had an outdoors shower: gathering around the tap on our knees trying to soap ourselves and even receiving assitance from fellow hikers. What a site this must have made for the monkeys looking down from the trees. They were laughing a fit!
Markus found an Axe and was soon attacking the wood with a frenzy. He became quite skilled and we soon had a huge pile of firewood. Enough for ourselves and the next week of groups. Chris lit the fire.
I was strolling around the back of the hut when I thought that I heard voices: Two young Dutch boys of around 20 were touring SA and had decided to do this hike today. Uri and Mathys. They fitted into our group quite nicely.
Once 5pm had passed we decided that we had heard the Boeing flying overhead and it was time to enjoy the Alcoholic Beverages that we had lugged over the rock faces. Was it worth it: absolutely.
I hauled out my makings of supper: Tinned muscles on Ryevita; Crumbed chicken; roast potato; single large mushroom and vegetables. But first of course I had to quench my thirst with a beer. Maryna had brought some Springbok Sausage which she braaied and shared around. I decided to leave the chicken for this really delicous Wors. A little later someone boiled water and I had a Choc Brownie with coffee before slipping away quietly to "check up on the children". In the back I enjoyed the sound of voices while I eased into a good sleep for the night.
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It had rained through the night. I was a little restless and had cramped in my quads. I was a bit stiff and sore when I woke in the morning but nothing that would not ease up with a bit of walking. It is always like this with me on the first day of the hike. We boiled water, made our porridge and coffee and were ready to set off in the rain by 8am. But God smiled down on us and just as we were about to leave the rain stopped falling.
Day Two
THe first part of todays hike is a Two Kay pathway. Markus kind of stayed back with me. We descended the steep cliff down to the river below. Here we have to remove our books and walk through the stream. Best to have crocs or slops for this. The water was cold. We regrouped and made our way along the rocky beach to the first chain ladder. This was going to be another tough day of rock climbing. There are a number of sections where you cling to the rockface and have to make your way across. There are also steep ladders and loose scree to walk across. Three wooden bridges made slippery by the overnight rain were not easy to walk across.
When I write this I cannot remember each of the sections of rock climbing, descents, edging across sheer rock face, clinging onto the the rocks with your fingertips and searching for handholds and places to make sure your footing is secure. each one of these took effort and concentration. I was again sweating across my brow and into my eyes. My limbs were exhausted and I was really happy to see Fred at the top of the climb ahead. Fred; Maryna and Markus reached the top way ahead of us and continued onto the Hut.
Looking ahead into the hole in the wall
Here Graham is just ahead of me before the final section leading to the base of the Kranshoek cliff climb.
Pieter, Christ and I reach where Graham is waiting for us at the foot of the climb. We trudge up in stages, looking back down to the beach is amazing. We climb quickly and then find ourselves at the Kranshoek picnic area. Here we settle down to a lunch of Tuna, cheese and biscuits. This is enough to sustain us for the last 5k to the hut. The rain starts to fall again but we are under the canopy and dont notice the rain. Finally we reach the Harkerville hut where we have a quick shower, give the two Dutch boys a lift home and Fred and I enjoy an easy drive home with just one stop at Storms river for a hot choc.
Monday morning I am still stiff and sore so dont go running but by Tuesday I am able to be back on the road and enjoy my morning running group again.
Pieter; \Graham and Chris. We are at the base of the Kranshoek climb on the Pebble beach.
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