TSITSIKAMMA HIKING TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2006.

TSITSIKAMMA HIKING TRAIL 26TH SEPTEMBER 2007

Peter, Barbara, Ally & Mark
Ian and Jenny from New York
Patrick, Patti, Dominic, Isabelle & St John from Durban
Gerald & Pat
Robin
Dawn from East London
Engela, Natasha, Lauren & Tamaryn

We began this hike by making the booking shortly after completing the Otter Trail in September of 2004. As it happened Ian was able to join the hike and so too was Patrick. It was the first time in many years that the three Giddy Boys were able to be together for any length of time while taking part in a common activity.

I had heard that there was a portage service available, which meant that the very young and the not so fit could also take part. For the rest of us it meant that we could do this hike in luxury. The cost of the hike including the bag carrying service was R500 pp. We booked it as a six-day hike starting at Natures Valley and ending at the Storms River Bridge. The total distance is about 61 kays. I also purchased a hike T-shirt for each of the hikers, which I had embroidered with the name of the hike and the individual's name as well. These will be a useful souvenir for each of us to keep.

Jenny arrived from Jhb on the Wednesday afternoon and left for Plettenbergbay the following morning, Ian arrived on Friday afternoon, hired a car and after spending a night with us drove through to Plett on Saturday morning. Patrick had left Westville on Friday afternoon, slept over in Ladybrand on the way through and then drove straight through to Plett on Saturday. So the hike gave both families time to visit Ena and to do some shopping for the hike in Plett. Dawn came through from East London on Saturday and spent a few days with Gail. Dawn agreed that I should do most of the catering as we normally do when on a hike. So I bought provisions that should be sufficient for five people. I found that I had to think and rethink the catering a number of times as I did not want to be ridiculous with the amount of food and luxuries but also did not want to be too Spartan either. I had given blood the previous week and they had given me a little flask as reward. I was looking forward to using this and the two cooler bags that they had previously given me. One was a wine cooler and the other a six pack cooler.

We were also able to arrange that Mark come on the hike with us. Mark is presently at school in Vryheid in KZN and spends weekends in Saldana Bay. His home is in Pretoria (Tshwane I think that it is now called). Mark took the bus from Vryheid to Pretoria and then to Port Elizabeth. A long trip for him but he was really looking forward to the hike and it was a pleasure to have him with us. Mark arrived in Port Elizabeth on Saturday afternoon and was able to spend a few days with us before the hike started. It was good to have him back.

We spent a good part of the weekend packing and planning our meals. I had taken leave from the Friday afternoon. Engela had offered to lend me her fancy video camera so I would not have to lug the big bag that I am familiar with. I had run on Saturday morning and had somehow developed a stiff neck. This troubled me the whole weekend but fortunately by Monday morning was hardly noticeable. During the period leading up to the hike Michael had secured himself an Assistant Managers position at the FurnCity branch of Ellerines about a month previously. Cathy had just landed a job at FlightCenter in Cape Town and was due to start on the same day that the hike started. This meant that we had a whole positive vibe in our lives at the time.


Monday morning 26th September 2005.

Day one. Finally Monday morning arrived and we did a last bit of arranging and were ready to leave shortly after 09.30. Engela phoned to say that she would meet us at Storms River Bridge, as she still had to go to Greenacres for some more shopping. Gerald had leant me his trailer. This was a blessing to us as there was no way that we would have been able to fit all our stuff in the boot of my car. We took a slow drive through to the bridge and soon after we got there Engela and Trips arrived. More shopping of course and we were on our way to Natures Valley.

I contacted Graeme and the others that we were due to meet and confirmed that we would be there shortly. After the Toll Bridge we took the turn off to Natures Valley and were soon looking down on the splendour of the valley. We do not travel this road often any more and so enjoyed the forest road. At the rest camp, De Vaselot, we unpacked and began to separate our stuff. Graeme met us there and we explained the various fridge and freezer arrangements. He would be delivering our daily requirements so that we could have fresh foods every day. We had five cars altogether and had decided that we should transfer the cars to the Storms River Bridge while leaving just one car at Natures Valley.

Once this transfer was complete we were finally ready to start the first day’s hike which was a short 3kay walk to Kalander hut. We all had our daypacks so at least looked like hikers but our huge pile of baggage had been loaded into the truck and would be waiting for us at the hut. Tracey (From our church fellowship group) had phoned to wish us a good hike and had described their weekend at the Kudu Kaya at the Baviaans Kloof. It seems that they had waded and walked to the pool where Tim had slipped when we did the YsRivier kloofing trail earlier in the year. It sounded like they had an incredible weekend.

The first day starts along the old main road and after crossing the Groot Rivier turns off into the forest. They were in the process of building a boardwalk and so this part of the trail was made even easier. Our first hazard was a little stretch of water but after that it was an easy walk and we were soon at the hut and setting up camp at the Kalander Hut. The hut is crowded with bunks but there are four rooms so the younger group immediately declared their independence by claiming the room with 8 beds. Ian and Jenny had a room to themselves; Barbara, Dawn & I had the front room while the others shared the fourth room. The hut is located very close to the beach where the Otter trail ends. So we spent some time on the beach fooling around and getting to know each other. I don’t think that anyone was brave or foolish enough to go for a swim.

We decided that 16.00 was about the right time to get the fire going and in no time a feast of meat was being grilled with Patti doing most of the cooking. After the meal Robin had the youngsters playing cards. This was a real highlight as I often heard them asking later on the trail whether they could play cards again. They had great fun with much laughter. As is normal on the trail most of the group would be in bed between 20.00 to 21.00.
Tuesday Morning

Day two. We had agreed to leave fairly early the next morning as we did not know how every one would cope with the walk and so by just after 07.00 we were all packed and ready to go. We left this huge pile of bags for the truck crew to collect, locked the door and set off up the hill to the lookout point. Today our first adventure was a chain, which we could use to abseil down a short section of the pathway. There was also a set of steps but most of the group preferred the abseiling. The trail took us into the forest and a number of tea and lunch breaks. The trips set a precedent or standard; almost each stop meant that we would have to look upwards as one or more of them would be straddling a branch above us.

It was interesting to see the variety of trail food that had been prepared. And was clear that this was not to be a trail where people would lose weight. The trail first crosses the old main road connecting Port Elizabeth to Plett and then passes through a tunnel that is beneath the toll road (N2) just West of the Toll Gate. After about 5kays we reached the waterfall. This is a good picnic spot and we were walking at a rate of between two to three kays an hour. Over the whole hike we would average something like two kays an hour, this included a multitude of stops, breaks, swims etc. The faster youngsters could have set a much faster pace but they had strict instructions to regroup at suitable intervals. Nobody swam at the waterfall but there was a lot of tree and rock climbing. The weather had been cool for most of the day and was ideal hiking weather.

We still had about eight kays to go and so set off once everybody was fed and rested. Along this path we came across a group of people who were harvesting the ferns. It seems that they worked for the Forest Fern Nursery, which is located on the East Side of the Storms River Bridge. They explained that they would harvest a variety of flora which would be sold to local and overseas markets.

As we walked we could see the Indian Ocean through the trees. We saw that the seas were looking quite rough due to strong winds but where we were, in the forest, we hardly noticed the wind strength. Today we were also able to see the Blaauwkrans Bridge from the trail. The last section of this day’s hike is a jeep track and quickly leads to hiker to the Blaauwkrans hut which over looks the valley and the stream below where there are a number of pools that can be used for swimming. We reached the Blaauwkrans Hut at about 14.00. We had walked for between six to seven hours. I think that we would have been a lot slower if we had been carrying full backpacks.

Our baggage was safely stored in the hut and the fresh and frozen foods were intact and accurately delivered. We had marked the daily requirements with the day of the week. I carry trail soap and prefer to wash in the streams. Others used the showers that are provided. This hut has two rooms. The youngsters again claimed their territory while the snorers bunked in the second room. In the middle of the night Jenny, Ian and Patti decided that the volume of snoring was getting out of control so evacuated the adult room and moved to the youngster’s room. Strangely enough there was almost no snoring once they had gone but the youngsters reported an increased level of snoring in their room that night!

This evening I had planned for a supper of mince and rice. The mince was left over from Wednesday evening when Jenny had been at our house. I had frozen the leftovers and this provided a delicious supper for us. The huts are equipped with a separate kitchen or Lapa area, which is well stocked with firewood as well as braai grids, heavy cast iron pots and kettles. There is a separate shower and toilet area. The showers can be made warm if the hiker is prepared to boil the water in a kettle and to use the bucket system provided. I think that the buckets in this hut were leaking and so it was either cold showers or bath in the stream below.

Graeme had said that we could order additional foods if required and so I decided to try this out. I had packed six rolls for each day but decided to order bread and also realised that there was a possibility that Barbara and Dawn may become increasingly more thirsty as the trail progressed, ordered an extra bottle of Sherry as well. Ian realised that he had left his glasses and Jenny’s hot water bottle at the Kalander hut so left a note for the truck crew. These items were returned to him later.

We had been had warned that we could expect rain during the first day or two. We had had some rain during the night but had taken most of the towels and baggage into the hut for the night. For the rest of the hike we had perfect weather. At no stage, except perhaps Friday afternoon, was it particularly hot. The evenings were cool but bearable.


Wednesday morning.

Day three. Our breakfast was planned for coffee, hot chocolate and rusks. Ena had promised to send a container of those delicious rusks that she makes. But it seems that Patrick had been remiss and forgotten them in his car. I then decided to make the most of this and use this as a blackmailing tool against him. If Ena was to discover that he had not brought the rusks for us; and that we had gone hungry as a result; the consequences would be too horrific to bear thinking about! This morning we left at about 08.00am. The air was crisp but most of us required only shorts and a T-Shirt, while Gerald needed double layers including his “Moffie Broek”.

The days walk starts with a short descent and then a fairly long ascent. Walking uphill in the early morning is not difficult although the heat means that the hiker should remain well hydrated. Looking back from the hill that we climbed that morning we could see across the valley. I always marvel at how quickly we walk uphill to the most magnificent views. This morning was no exception. The morning sun on the valley, the dew on the fynbos, Erica, Watsonia and variety of Protea bush created a breathtaking experience.

After about five Kays we reached the young group. They had found a stream where we relaxed for a snack and enjoyed the fresh sound of the stream as it rushed over the rocks. When everyone was fully rested and ready to press on we had to cross the stream. The trail provides a chain to assist the hiker. The youngsters went on first and I was amazed to see how the level of the water rose in the short while between them leaving and the rest of the group. The second group had to remove their boots or else would have to walk in wet boots for the remaining eight kays.

From here there was a steady climb with undulating pathways for most of the rest of the day. As the trail nears the Keurbos hut there is a section of jeep track and then just before the hut is the Twin Tubs. These are two rock pools just off the pathway, which we walked back to after off loading our packs. Isabelle was first to jump in with Dominic and Ally following shortly afterwards. Others seemed to be willing to get their feet wet but not much more. The mountain streams are fairly chilly at this time of year. After they had all left, Patrick, St John and I had our evening bath. Meanwhile back at the hut, Patti was busy boiling water in all three kettles so that the group could enjoy a hot shower. I never found out whether she was doing this because she is such a good considerate person or if it was that she could no longer stand the odour that goes with hiking for four days.

Each evening would start off with the happy hour, pre-dinner snacks and fire building. I think that it was Bill Corkill who had once declared that happy hour may not begin before 17.00 until the second night on the trail when it was permissible to have a pre-happy hour beverage at 16.00. Robin set this standard for this hike and I was able to open the first of my ration of two Millers Draught Beers at that time.

Just before the hike I had visited the local Solly Kramers intending to purchase the Windhoek draught that had been so successful on previous hikes but had been conned into buying Millers beer with the offer of a free six pack. Let me not complain. The Millers went down very well on the hike. The pre-dinner snacks were probably the highlight of each evening. They varied between cauliflower, carrots and other fresh vegetables with dip to oysters and muscles on Crackers. But the most indulgent of all was when, on their last night, Ian and Jenny brought out the caviar on crackers!

The Keurbos Hut evening was to be our Pootjiekos evening. Patti had brought Pork Fillet and we had a pack of drumsticks. There was also a variety of vegetables, which was cooked in the cast iron “Drie Poot Pot” and we had a most delicious supper. I tried to make a custard and peaches for pudding but strangely enough this was not as popular with Ally and Mark as I had thought it would be. I think that they were too much in a hurry to get back to the “teenagers room” after supper each evening. That was where the real fun was to be had.

Thursday morning.

Day four. This was to be the last day of hiking far Ian and Jenny who had to catch a flight to Port Elizabeth on Friday afternoon. The bread, which I had asked the truck crew to buy, had been waiting for us in the hut the previous evening. This was fantastic as we now had two loaves of fresh sliced bread to make sandwiches and I was able to make a good pile of pastrami, cheese, lettuce, and ham and mayonnaise sandwiches for the day’s hike. It was going to be “another tough day in Africa”! Today’s hike begins with a climb, which is easily manageable in the morning cool and provides the hiker with splendid views of the valley, the Indian ocean and even views of Plettenbergbay and the Robberg. After this climb there are some fairly steep descents down to the Elandsbos river at the six Kay mark. A mistake that we, as hikers, often make is that we do not take time to look back on where we have come. These views may be the best that we will have.

The Elandsbos stream, like most on the hike, provides the hiker with an ideal opportunity to take boots off and to soak tired feet. It is quite amazing how soaking feet and legs in the icy water of the stream can refresh legs that were previously aching. At this point the river is suitable for a swim and many of us took full advantage of the opportunity. While others used this as an excuse for a bit of sun tanning and snacking. Patrick was last to arrive with St John and provided Ally with her most amusing moment of the hike as he changed to his swimming costume.

Shortly after the swimming hole is the narrow bridge crossing. This is a 30meter swing bridge where there is a 20cm board to walk across and the handholds are ideally suited to adults. Ally and St John were stretched to their limit, as they had to cross the bridge with arms fully extended to try to reach the rope. But along with everybody else they took this in their stride and were soon on the other side of the river and walking strongly up the next hill. I had tried to film this but realised that the battery of the camera was flat despite the fact that Engela had provided two batteries and that she had fully charged them prior to the hike.

I think that it was about here that we started the spelling and maths exercises. Between Isabelle and myself we set both Ally and St John spelling and maths tests which helped them to keep their minds off their tired legs. Up to this time they had been coping incredibly well and often leading some of the more senior of the hikers. As often happened at this time of day we would rest often as the heat became quite stifling particularly when we were in the tall fynbos that cut out all breeze but failed to provide any shade. This hike is one, which I would not like to tackle during the summer months, as I do not enjoy walking in the heat. The days would be longer and the river water warmer but I find the afternoon heat energy sapping.

The walk to Heuningbos Hut took us about seven hours and was well worth the effort. As we were hiking I had this thought that I was kind of in a training mode. Tim and I had this idea that we could complete the BAFER ultra. This is a 100kay two-day event along the Amatola hiking trail. What worried me is that I had forgotten just how tough a hiking trail can be and the extent to which your feet take a pounding. Oh well, that will have to be another story. The Heuningbos hut faces the West and has some cool pools just below the hut. When we got there we went straight down to the pools and were able to enjoy a swim while the sun warmed us up as we got out the water and sat on the warm rocks. This evening was the last evening for Ian and Jenny so we had the compulsory photo shoots of the Giddy families and the Giddy boys.

Each hut has a set of “Rules”. Barbara & I remember this hut well; as we had once walked to the hut and had to share with others who had come there with the sole purpose of adding to the profits of S.A.Breweries. One of the rules of this hut was “No Vulgarities” I cannot remember for certain, but perhaps we had complained to the hike management at the time and this was their response.

We were able to get cell phone reception and we were able to chat to Ena and assure her of our safety. The evening was much warmer than the previous three evenings and Patti decided to move her sleeping accommodation to the kitchen area. Between her and Engela (assisting with the placing of firewood to seal the area against draughts) they set up a cosy boudoir in a corner of the kitchen.

This evening was warm and the sky was clear so we were able to do a little stargazing and even saw a satellite. Satellites are only visible in the early evening as they reflect the sun. Once the evening meal was finished and most of the hikers had gone to bed I was able to sit at the fireside with some of the youngsters and tell stories which others have long become bored with.


Friday Morning.

Day five. I had again ordered two loaves of fresh bread and so was able to use left over pork sausages together with a variety of cheese, lettuce, ham and pastrami to make the days sandwiches. Ian and Jenny had planned to walk some of the way to the main road but before we left the truck crew were there to collect them and all of our baggage. They would be dropped off at the Storms River Bridge where their hired car was parked. We said our good byes and left them to make their way to Port Elizabeth and then back to America. They phoned on Sunday to say that they had reached their home in NY safely despite delayed flights.

Ian had been talking of a combined trip to Cloudbridge, their farm in Costa Rica. It is a farm that they are in the process of converting from a cattle ranch to a nature conservation area. They are trying to clear out the thorn and dense brush that has been left over from the cattle farming and to replant indigenous trees. One of the main problems that they encounter is that the young trees that they plant will soon become covered with the dense thorn bush if it is not cleared every few months. Ian tells me that it is purely a conservation effort and that there is no commercial venture planned, even though they are also creating trails and that a variety of people enjoy the trails. They are also considering building a hut along one of the trails. Ian tells me that the farm adjoins a national park and that the trails are very mountainous and difficult.

The hike from Heuningbos to Sleepkloof is fairly well known to both Robin and myself. We instructed everyone to fill as many water bottles as possible. As happened on most mornings, we started off with a climb and then a steep descent. These descents are normally tiring on the feet and when we reached the stream at the bottom we gladly took our boots off and had a soak in the cold water. We also had a snack here and I again urged everyone to fill their water bottles to capacity. What we did not know is that just a few meters further on the trail crossed the stream for a second time. Here it was wider and deeper. The heat was already quite intense and Engela & Pat decided to dip themselves fully into the water, clothes and all!

Finally we set off for the toughest section of the whole hike. It is particularly tough because of the time of day as well as the fact that the trail is through tall fynbos and so there is no cooling breeze. Halfway up this section there is a spring which must be used to refill water bottles again. If the hiker does not use every opportunity to drink and drink regularly there is a real chance of dehydration but in any event the heat is energy sapping. I was walking with Isabelle and Robin and we had to stop often to take advantage of tiny bits of shade and to try to recover our strength. Fortunately we had sufficient water.

After we reached the neck we saw Barbara, Ally and Dawn coming up behind us. We waved and they waved back. What we did not realise is that they were short of water and were trying to attract our attention. Eventually they did reach the neck and Barbara told me that Dawn was suffering even worse than they were. As it turned out everyone got to the top and after a short period of relaxation and a snack we began the long descent to the river below. I went a little ahead and filled the water bottle so that I could provide Barbara & Dawn with water if they should require it. But they were fine and we were soon all enjoying the shade of the forest and the cool water below. Patti made some Ginger tea and I heard Barbara & Dawn raving about how good it tasted.

From the river it is another 2kays to the Sleepkloof Hut but an easy forest walk. We reached the hut as the tail enders at about 16.00 this having been the toughest day. Showers and clothes washing on the trail does not really take the dirt from the hiker but it gave us a sense that we were at least acceptable. The Smoke and Sweat of the trail takes some really deep cleaning which only comes in the form of Skip, OMO, Sunlight and similar detergents. As happens on the last night of any trail there was a festive mood and a sense of achievement. However much we tried we could not eat as much as we had brought so there was a fair amount of left over food. The supply of beverages was not as plentiful and by the end of the evening of telling the same stories as we tell on any trail and pretending that we find each other incredibly funny, we were all ready for bed. By now the young group had become quite firm friends and seemed to have an even better evening than the older group of hikers.

Saturday morning.

The last day. I was up early as usual and chopped wood for the morning fire. Having hot water available in the morning makes life a little easier as there is often washing to be done and coffee to be made. This morning Robin, Gerald & I left a little early, as we were still to fetch Robin’s car at Natures Valley. This is a very easy forest walk and within 40mins we were at the Storms River Bridge. We had passed Graeme and the Truck crew along the pathway and so we knew that they would be back soon with the baggage. We immediately set off for Natures Valley where we picked up Robin’s car and drove back to the bridge. The rest of the group had started just after us but we heard later that they had set a cracking pace and walked the final three kays in about 37 mins. We decided to have a breakfast on the deck at Storms River Restaurant before heading back home. The service was prompt and we were soon taking last photos and ready for the last lap.

Patrick would meet us at our house and then carry on to East London where they stayed the night with Dawn in East London, before heading off to Durban on Sunday. I spent Saturday afternoon cleaning up and trying to cross tape the video that I had taken along the trail. It was only then that I discovered why the battery had not lasted as long as expected. What I had done on the second day was to film us reaching the top of the first hill and then put the camera into the carry bag, Still Recording! So I have about 40 mins of film of the inside of a carry bag with the sounds of my puffing and panting as I walk through the forest. I have not listened to the whole tape but hopefully I did not say anything that could be construed as vulgarities or insulting. This is just another example of my being lazy to use my reading glasses when I should be reading instructions.

The drive back to Port Elizabeth was easy with Mark and Ally asleep for most of the time and Barbara & Dawn completing a crossword puzzle with clues which leave me baffled.

Mark and Ally enjoyed the afternoon sun in the pool and in each other’s company. At about 16.15 we took Mark to the Greyhound bus and provided him with a few snacks for the road. He would have to travel to Pretoria and then on Sunday to Vryheid to be back at school on Monday. The weather on Saturday had begun with a really hot day of about 30 degrees and then in the late afternoon the wind came up and the temperature dropped considerably. It seemed that we had had the very best of the holiday weather on our hike. The next week was going to be a busy one for us as Michael’s wife, Lene, was due to have their third baby on Monday morning (Daniel) and Nicci (also pregnant) was due to fly in from London this week with her two children, Christian and Aaron.

Finally thanks to everyone on the hike for your company and the wonderful fellowship that we enjoyed together. Also thanks to the Gendalls for the loan of their sleeping bags and the McGillivrays for the loan of their gas cooker. I have managed to put together about 40 mins of the hike (Highlights of the first three days) onto video and have this available should you wish to see it.


Peter Giddy
2 October 2005.

Contact Details for the hike:
044 874 4363 (Ivy)
ivy@cyberperk.co.za