HARKERVILLE HIKING TRAIL 17 JUNE 2005.

HARKERVILLE TRAIL 17th JUNE 2005

Some time ago Mike Perks had spoken to me about this trail but at that stage they had planned to do the trail from the Diepvalle hut to the Fisanthoek hut and then the Harkerville. This did not suite us as we had done this section before and had not really enjoyed the first two days.

So it happened that Mike was to be away doing some training in the Magalliesberg and so he would only be available for the hike from Friday afternoon. And with this in mind Barbie had changed the booking to only include the Harkerville and the Sinclair huts. But it was only at the last minute that she thought to contact us again. So when we decided to do the hike we had not prepared ourselves as we normally do.

On Friday afternoon I took the afternoon off and we left home at about 14.30. The drive to Plett was broken by two fairly long stops for road construction but was made interesting by Barbara reading to me from the book by Richard Pelzer who had been part of the David Pelzer family and who had been so severely abused as a child. We did not do our normal stop at Storms River, as we wanted to visit Ena in Plett as well as getting to the Harkerville hut reasonably early before dark.

Ena (Peter’s Mother) was expecting us and was also preparing for her birthday party on the 29th as she had invited about 30 guests. Ena seemed to be in fairly good health and had overcome the setbacks of a few falls that she had had recently. This was to be her 89th birthday and so we were very happy to see her looking and sounding so cheerful. We did not stay for tea and were soon on our way to Harkerville which is just 15kays further on the way to Knysna.

We reached Harkerville just before dark and found Louise and Allan there. Barbie, son Andrew, friend Mark and Mike’s sister Mandy (from East London) arrived as we did. Andrew and Mark (A&M) soon got stuck into the wood chopping business and we decided that the Braai was to be held in the kitchen of the hut. This hut is quite a luxury hut as there is electric lights, many rooms, a separate kitchen area, two flush loos and warm showers. We had plenty to eat but Barbara soon realised that although we had plenty to eat we were poorly prepared for the hike poorly and had little in the way of pasta or potato. We made up by going to the nearby filling station to buy a few extra goodies like ice cream and chocolates. Mike and Nigel were due to leave PE at about 19.00 and were expected at the hut after 21.00. Barbara and I were pretty exhausted and were in bed before they arrived. Our intention was to read but within minutes we were in dreamland.

The next morning (Saturday 18th June 2005.) we were up early and I had a shower and was delighted to find that they had those showers with a heating type nozzle that took the chill off the water. That morning there seemed to be a Berg Wind and while we expected a chilly morning we were pleasantly surprised to be able to start the hike with overcast but mild weather. This day is a 15kay hike with the first ten or 11 kays being in the forest and really easy going with no severe ups or downs. Enjoy this while you can because here comes the tough part of the hike! Just after the 10-kay mark the trail starts a steep descent. At the top we stopped for a breather and snack and then made our way down the step ladders and trail which included some difficult rock scrambling. We were soon down on the beach. I refer to this area as the beach but all the beaches along this stretch of coast consist of rocks and pebbles which are tough on the feet and legs.


Once down to the beach area we were soon treated to our first set of chains. For me this is a really scary section as the air was damp, there had been some drizzle and the spray of the waves made everything damp and slippery. To add to the toughness of the section it seemed that the wind decided to blow just as we were on these chains. What the hiker has to do is hang onto slippery chains which your hands, try to find footholds on the wet, slippery and sheer rocks with your boots and try your best to not fall to certain death on the rocks below. All this, while carrying the backpack that you have so carefully packed to be as light as possible but still tries its very best to unbalance you. Next time I must remember this section and perhaps I will not bring so many beers, snacks and the camera bag.

I remember thinking that we had done 11 kays in about three hours having left the hut at about 08.00 and reached the beach at just after 11.00 so we now only had just over 4kays to go. Well from here on the rock climbing over a variety of obstacles takes the hiker over an hour for every kay. The going is very tough and should not be taken lightly. I say again – this is a tough hike! It is not for someone who suffers a fear of heights like me. Nor is it for those who are unfit or who have had health problems like Barbara and most of the rest of the adults on the hike. I recommend a good pair of boots as the rocks are hard on the feet. A & M walked in running shoes but I was glad to have boots.

We finally reached the bottom of what I call the Zorro hill at about 15.00. Fortunately for us we found a stream at the base of this hill where we were able to refill our water bottles. This should be a reminder to hikers tackling this trail to carry extra water. On a hot day dehydration can sap the body of fluid and there may not be any water on the trail despite the fact that the map indicates that there is water to be found. We began our climb up the Zorro hill knowing that once at the top it could not be much further to the hut. But still the climb is tough and Allan was totally exhausted, Barbara had been suffering from blood pressure problems recently and all of us were weary from a long days walk which had included about four hours of scrambling over rocks to cover a mere three kays.

The Zorro hill needed all our reserves and energy of which we had little left. Mike and boys went up ahead and then Mike was able to come back down to assist Barbie with her pack. I was also able to give Barbara some help, as she seemed to be struggling with the heat and the climb. However it was not too long and we reached the top and wound our way through the tall fynbos to the hut, which is situated in a ring of gum trees. What a relief it was to be able to take off the heavy boots, the packs and now I was glad that I had suffered the weight of four cans of Hunters Cider.

This evening I felt a little embarrassed as I relaxed while A & M did all the wood chopping for the second evening in a row. Mike reminded me of a story where painting of a fence was made to be fun! We very soon had a fire going and water boiling. Nigel was concerned that the water tank was not full but the comment of a previous hiker was confirmed: “There is more rain here in a day than there is in a whole year in Namibia!” The tank contained thousands of liters of water and was full. So even though we used the water sparingly we were able to wash, cook and drink as much as we wished.

Barbara & I had leftovers from the previous evening for our supper: Delicious fillet steak rolls as well as our snacks but when Barbie offered us her stew that she had prepared and frozen we were only too happy to accept and ate with relish. It was at about this time that Barbara learnt that her Auntie Ilva (from Grahamstown) had died that afternoon. This was sad news but Barbara & I had been there a few weeks earlier when we went to Grahamstown to watch Grey play St Andrews at Rugby and were able to pay Ilva a visit. Exhausted and feeling a little sad Barbara was in bed really early. I was able to stay with the group a little longer and was treated to some of the traditional Perks pudding that I had enjoyed some months earlier when Kloofing with Mike. By now the group was bonding somewhat and we started to get to know each other just that little bit better. But despite that mellow atmosphere, the conversation and good company I kept hearing the distinctive call of bed -– Peter, Peter! —And so responded by slipping into the sleeping bag soon after 21.00. I had a good but fitful sleep and was glad to be able to rise at about 06.15. Sunrise was at about 07.00.

Sunday morning. Fathers Day! Mmmmm, Not sure what the significance of that was but I was not treated to coffee in bed. We wanted to make an early start today as the distance was 12kays and estimated time was 7 hours. I made us coffee and seemed to be packed and reasonably ready to go quite early but as it turned out we left at 08.00. A variety of breakfasts were enjoyed from cooked oats, instant cereal, coffee and rusks and a little fruit.

The trail on this day starts with an easy two-kay walk through the fynbos before a sharp descent takes the hiker down to the beach again. By now all the aches, pains, stiff legs, sore backs and feet start to manifest themselves. We were lucky that it was low tide and so the set of chain ladders and chains that had to be negotiated could be avoided. But not for A & M; they had to do it the hard way and even made poor Mike do the same just so they could be photographed. We pressed on. But more of the tough rock climbing that we had had the previous day was to come.

And it was extremely slow going. Up and down the outcrops of rock, climbing around sheer rock-faces and regrouping takes a great deal of time. We came to the Hole-in-the-wall that I had been expecting. Then there were the ladders both vertical and horizontal that makes the hike one of the really tough hikes of the area. Finally when we seemed to be becoming really exhausted we saw that it was not too long before the ascent to the Kranshoek viewpoint would be reached. Mike had decided to go on ahead with A & M so that he could leave Mark at the top while he and Andy jogged on to the Harkerville hut, fetch the car and then drive back to collect Barbie and others. The rest of us climbed the steep trail up and I was lucky enough to strike up conversation with a few local fishermen who had their bakkie parked at the top of the Kranshoek viewpoint.

It had taken us over four hours to reach this far and when they offered us a lift and it was not long before Barbara, Nigel and I were heading back to the hut where our cars were parked. We were cheating! But a slog through the forest roads and pathways did not seem that exciting. We found Mike and Andy almost at the hut and they joined us on the back of the bakkie. After that Mike and Nigel drove back to collect the rest of the group while Barbara & I headed for home.

Just before we reached Plett we came across an accident which reminded us of the danger of speed and so the rest of the drive was a comfortable one with a stop at the Storms River Bridge for hot chocolate and a snack. And with the advantage of the bakkie ride we were able to be home by soon after 15.00. The drive from Kranshoek to the Harkerville hut probably saved us three hours of hiking. We were not sorry as Ally had a project to do and also had an array of Fathers Day cards and a new jersey to give me. These were well received. Thank you Alli and Cathy.
So that was our Harkerville Hike. Thanks to Mike, Barbie and the rest of the gang for having us along and for the great support and companionship. I have a copy of the video that I took of us doing the hike. It does not do justice to the rigours of the hike but is a reminder of some of the difficult parts of the hike. I know that Mike has a vast array of photographs that he took with the digital camera that he had along.

Peter Giddy
On this hike with us were:
Mike, Barbie and Andrew Perks
Andrew’s friend Mark.
Mike’s Friend Nigel
Louise and her friend Allan
Mike’s sister Mandy from East London.