Whale Trail. 29th October 2003 to 3 November 2003
Cape Nature Conservation.
dehoopinfo@sdm.dorea.co.za
028 542 1126/7
Bill Corkill (082 556 0012)
Ruth Stasiak (041 585 8147) stasiak@telkomsa.net
Trevor Lloyd (083 966 0636)
Peter & Barbara Giddy (082 550 3174) pgiddy@hinet.co.za
Jap & Christine (Wasmuth) Coetzer (082 880 1453) japcoetzer@cybertrade.co.za
Peter and Judy Adams (082 600 6411) peter.adams@schenker.co.za
Gerald and Pat Scheepers (082 788 0522) marmow@telkomsa.net
Voetsac Hiking Club
Post hike reunion for Hikers and family alike will be held at Peter and Barbara (23 Mill Park Road) in the form of a Bring & Braai on Friday 14th November 18.00. We will swap stories and photos. Please call to confirm.
This trail was introduced to our running group over a year ago when Graham Richards came back from an epic trip in which he and his group had been snowed in the mountains of the Western Cape. We reserved our place in the hike over a year in advance. Bill spoke about the trail during our runs and Gerald and I immediately registered our interest in the form of a deposit. It was to be Gerald and Pat’s first long hike.
Our pre-hike meeting was held at the Westview sports club. During this meeting another group from the Voetsac club gave a report back on some of their experiences. One of the main problems seems to be that the directions to the start of the hike are not clear from the website or the hike map. Gerald and Pat were assigned to our Combi as were Jap and Christine. Barbara & I visited J & C to be sure that we knew where to go to collect them in the morning. By consensus we decided to leave at 05.00am on the Wednesday morning. This would give us plenty of time to find the hike and to do a bit of exploring in the reserve as well.
DAY ONE---PE to POTBERG
P & B left home at 04.45, filled with petrol, bought a coffee, collected G & P then J & C and we left PE at 05.30. Storms River was the first stop. We filled up with coffee and snacks. Then onto Mossell Bay where we had a filling Wimpy breakfast. Heidelberg (487Kays) was our last chance to make our final purchases of biltong and water. 3Kays out of town we turned left to Slangriver. Malgas (Malagas on the local signboards) is 45kays from Heidelberg on a dirt road. Alfred who has pulled the Pontoon across the Breede River for 20 years is accompanied by Gideon and William. They are employed by the Overberg Municipality. The R15.00 trip across takes about 7.5 minutes. 5Kays after Malgas we spotted 4 Cape Vulture. They were amoungst some sheep. We speculated that they were either interested in a dead sheep or in the afterbirth of the sheep that were lambing. The Dirt road to Potberg is fairly well signposted but should not be undertaken after dark. Our group was fortunate to be able to see the local farmers busy with their combine harvesters as they worked in their fields threshing and collecting the wheat. These farmers also farm Canola, Barley, Oats and Ostrich. I collected some Ostrich feathers for Christine but they were grey and scraggly and I don’t think that she was at all impressed. Another feature of the drive to Potberg was the Blue Crane and Bontebok with their young. The Bontebok in this area is the result of a farmer who realised that the buck were almost extinct with only 27 left. He set aside an area for them which has grown in size to the Bontebok game reserve. There are now over 1500 of the beautiful white faced buck in the area.
We checked in to the hiking hut after a brief chat to Eileen who is the secretary of the Potberg camp. Nomfundo (the trail manager) was away for a while. After we had settled in and claimed our bunks we set off for a drive across to the De Hoop entrance to the reserve. We were greeted with much friendliness at the gate. From here we visited the main camp and did the circular drive. Here we saw Cape Zebra and Bontebok. The camp is perfect for those wanting some bird watching in the on the river beds and swamps. We stopped off at the Tierhoek lookout. Just outside of the main reserve is the Buchubush lodge. (028 542 1602) We were later to learn that the Buchu Bush is part of the fynbos of the area. At the lodge we were warmly greeted by Bronwyn who offered us a welcome cup of tea. It appears that Eileen’s husband has created this lodge (a set of 5 thatched self-catering luxury chalets with meals also provided in the main building) mainly for overseas visitors. The chalets cost R615 per night and sleep up to 6 people. Back to Potberg hut where we met up with Bill, Ruth, Judy, Peter and Trevor. The 12th member of the team was unable to come due to a sudden illness. Bill declared that “Happy Hour was in future to be at 17.00 and that we were a half hour late for which we were reprimanded. A little later Louise came to give us some instructions and rules of the trail. We had opted for the porterage where a suitcase per couple would be collected at each of the huts every morning and transported to the next hut for us. We would be carrying lighter day packs. For a mere R200 per bag this turned out to be a real civilised way to hike as we had luxury meals and plenty to drink throughout the five day hike. That evening we lit our fire and decided that the next morning’s activities may not begin before 06.00 and that we would start the hike at about 07.30. Bill announced that they had already spotted whales at Wilderness. Barbara confirmed that she had also seen these whales but that I had been driving too fast. MMMM? Judy and Peter had to do some repacking of their suitcases. Trevor had had two interesting encounters with people that he knew, one at the station shop in Sedgefield where they had stopped for pies and the second on the Pontoon at Malgas. The last thing I remember that evening was looking up at the Potberg Mountain that we would be climbing the next morning.
DAY TWO------POTBERG TO CUPIDO”S KRAAL 15KM
I collected the combi from the parking lot to be able to load the stuff that we would not be taking on the hike. It was at this time that the oil light started to flash. This was very worrying to me and I added my reserve tin of oil to the engine but this did not help so Jap and I walked across to the office where we found Louise who offered to buy two more pints of oil for me. After much organising and last minute packing we left the hut at 08.00 and walked up into mist. Barbara had had blood pressure problems and was feeling extremely giddy (excuse the pun) as we began our ascent. However the mist kept us cool and we were able to do the first 4 kays in about 90minutes. This took us to the beacon of the Potberg Mountain which is at 611m above sea level and is the highest point of the hike. Here Gerald proved the use of a cell phone as he was able to organise his business from here. As we made this ascent we were treated to Egyptian geese and some of the most colourful fynbos that we have ever seen. It was after the short stop at the top that we experienced the earthquake. Jap had claimed the tail of the group and was found to be madly scrambling for his camera while Bill was flat on his back in the bushes. Apart from scratched legs; no injuries. By 11.00 the mist began to lift and we were able to appreciate some of the views as we walked along the ridged summit of the mountain. We were able to see the Breede River to the East and the valleys of the Potberg to the West. Unfortunately no vultures were spotted. For the record we noticed a bit of soil erosion taking place at one section just before the 8kay mark that needs a bit of management by the rangers. For a while I led the party & had to avoid a number of black and white spotted spiders the size of a R2 coin that seemed to lay their webs across the trail and camouflaged themselves to look like the seeds of the Luca Dendron protea of the area.
13.00 was a well timed lunch stop at the second crossing of the Melkhout River. Do not be tempted to stop at the first crossing as there is far less place for twelve to gather. And on a hot day you may want to have a cooling dip. At this stream we were well past the 10kay mark but the sign indicates 5.7kay to go. This was not true as we covered this last section of the hike in just 90mins. As we reached the top of the hill we saw the dam below us and shortly afterwards the huts. This was like a red flag to a bull as the front group set off at a dash to reach the hut. We arrived at Cupido’s Kraal hut at 15.00. It was here that we saw our first sighting of the Yellow Backed Widow. A stunningly black and yellow bird that habits the mountain fynbos. We are also able to identify the Cape Sugar Bird that seems to enjoy the nectar of the Pincushion Protea that are just outside the hut braai area. This hut consisted of 4 rooms, two downstairs and two upstairs. I only found out later that the upstairs rooms do not have bunks and that those sleeping upstairs have mattresses on the floor. However the mattresses are most comfortable. Trevor and I went to the dam where we had a swim, wash and a paddle in the canoe. Today Peter had been bitten by a horsefly. I heard that it is the female horsefly that seeks out blood whereas the male looks for nectar.
By the time we returned to the hut we found that Bill had brought forward happy hour by an hour. “Purely medicinal purposes” he claimed. Bill, as leader, had set some rules for the hike. One of these was that we hike together as a group. This was foreign to myself as we had often attempted to do this with our own hikes but it had never worked out but so far today it seemed to work quite well. The other rule was that everyone must put in a report for the day’s activities during happy hour. This worked well tonight but not really again as the group left the written work to me. Ruth declared that the weather had been perfect for hiking. Jap suggested that a lean-to shelter would have been perfect at the lunch stop especially for a hot day as there is little or no shade on this hike and the Protea fields can be quite stifling hot. During happy hour each evening Judy would take out her embroidery to make slow but steady progress. I discovered the Luca Dendron is the yellow tipped leafy protea that covers the fields and gives them that yellow appearance. This evening we really appreciate the fact that there are hot showers. These are powered by gas. In addition we are able to have electric lights in the evening which are powered by solar panels that recharge the batteries. Even in the overcast weather we have sufficient light in the evenings. Tonight we discover that Jap is an expert fireman as he truly sets himself the evening task of lighting the fire and keeping it going both outside in the drizzle as well as in the kitchen where we are able to boil water in the big black kettle that is provided. We are all fairly exhausted and not much sounds are heard after 21.00.
DAY THREE-----CUPIDOSKRAAL HUT TO NOETSIES HUT 15KM
This morning I cannot contain myself and am up earlier than the agreed 06.00. It looks like it will be a great day for hiking again. Slightly overcast with a slight cool breeze coming from the east. We begin the day with a variety of breakfasts. Pat makes Gerald his obligatory two cups of really strong and well sugared coffee. Combine this with a double dose of oats so easy and some “tit bits” and he is set for the days walk. I prepare our lunch which will be rye vita, liver pate, celery, carrots, tomatoes, lettuce, cheese, dates, sugared dried fruit and sweets. And washed down with a rare vintage of game. Boy it is going to be a rough day! We start the day with a photo session. And then are off! Just outside is a suspension bridge. This has to be negotiated one at a time to avoid falling into the muddy stream. We leave at 08.20 and are at the beacon at the top of this hill at 10.00.
This is not a tough walk and the views and sculptured sandstone should be enjoyed. We were able to identify rock sculptures of pigs, Egyptian pharaohs, elephants, tortoises, and various other shapes as we walked this very colourful and interesting pathway. As we were going up the hill we saw the van that collects the baggage on its way to the hut. And were completely fooled as to where the overnight hut was to be. Jap laid down his stick and ran down to them. It turned out that he wanted them to buy him some more film. They of course were more than wiling. It was the kind of friendly service that we had come to appreciate on this hike. Jap has two cameras and I am looking forward to see the results of all his efforts. A good place to stop for tea is at the beacon at the top of the Hammerkop mountain where there is a rocky area which provides a good backrest which I, for one, need. At about 09.15 the sun makes an attempt to warm us up through the clouds but not for long as the clouds win the morning. We make our tea stop at 10.00 where we get cell phone reception. Bill and Trevor try to contact home but to no avail as their respective spouses are either busy on the phone or out spending their money on “unnecessary luxuries”. Today there is a short climb but thereafter this could be a long day if we did not have the cloud cover. A good portion of the walk is along the ridge of the mountain where there is no shade and could be tough on a hot day. Apart from the first day there is no water or streams to replenish water bottles so an additional supply of water is essential. Just after 11.00 we begin the descent along the Zorro path. We are now able to see our cove where we know the huts to be situated.
Immediately after crossing the forest road we stop for lunch. By now the sun is in full force and most of us suffer from a bit of sunburn around the neck and face. A Black Eagle was spotted at our lunch spot. Today a few small snakes slithered across our path. They were definitely no threat to the hikers. We begin the final stretch to the huts at 13.00. This is an interesting part of the hike and should not be rushed. It is the first time we come across the Port Jackson Willow. However the bird life, fynbos, geckos, dung beetles and Tok Tokkies make the walk fun. Look out for the waterfall in the kloof. Once we see the huts we have a further 45mins before we amble into them. The steep downhill to the beach again claimed Bill and he had an involuntary sit down. Boots are changed for sandals and I am able to persuade Gerald (who hates anything that is not at bath temperature) to go for a swim. Peter is already in the waves. “Most unusual for him” says Judy. But we have the most enjoyable swim both in the waves and the lagoon. Trevor and co find a swimming pool above the little waterfall near to the hut. At this location there are two huts, one is for sleeping and the other for the kitchen and bathrooms. And there is a gas cooker to add to the luxury of the hut. A negative is that the rain leaks into the sleeping area for those on the mezzanine or the top bunk under the windows. The braai area is overlooking the rocks and this is an ideal place to make your mark on the trail with some flotsam and jetsam. Ropes and other paraphernalia are added by the various hiking groups to the braai structure. I am able to find a suitable plank to add to the roof. We also found a worn plank and wrote the Voetsack name on it for following groups to see that we were a force to be reckoned with! This was to be the forerunner of our trademark.
Some of the more energetic went exploring further and others brought forward the happy hour or just settled into a bit of reading. At this hut there is a huge amount of laundry taking place. Even Gerald is seen to be hanging up his (now clean) socks. The washing lines and bushes are littered with freshly smelling (in our opinion anyway) clothes. While Bill had his CD player and Mozart to relax by. Jap did his fire thing and those who still had fresh meat made use of the fire while others used it for an excuse to mellow out until way past sunset. The jeep track leading to the hut reveals the necessity for the hardiest vehicle available. There is no cell phone reception here, so even of you run out of beers you are unable to call for rescue. This evening we experience the best sunset of the hike as we sit and watch the ocean, clouds and sun merge into a burst of colour and fire. Today Bill has taken a great deal of strain on the down hills and is clearly in pain. He announces that this is his last five day hike. Judy proves to be the bird expert and points out the Grey-back Cisticola, the Familiar Chat, Orange Breasted Sunbird and we have also seen Rock Kestrel today.
DAY FOUR-----NOETSIE TO HAMMERKOP HUT. 8km
Jap and I are up early as usual. After a quick wash and coffee Jap spots the first whale of the day but we (mistakenly ) decide that this is a large rock. Barbara confirms the whale sighting a short while later. Essential equipment for this hike is a good pair of Binoculars, a pocket bird book as well as a camera. So our first whale sighting was at 06.30am at Noetsie on 01 November 2003. Today is also a special day as the Springboks play Samoa for a place in the semi-finals and after the Samoans gave the British team a tough game we are sceptical of the Springboks ability to win this one. The rest of the morning at the hut is one of shouts of glee and “thar she blows” as we spot whales, tails and flippers. The Southern Right Whale does not have a dorsal fin. The whale is the length of 10 elephants when fully grown and 6 at birth. Binoculars are essential for a full appreciation of the enormous size of these creatures. The morning starts off with rain and so we are huddled in doorways trying to catch a glimpse of these magnificent animals which we are going to see so much of later on in the hike. The choppy seas make identification of the whales and their shapes that much more difficult.
By 09.00 the rain has stopped and we make our way back across the beach to the hill and we are soon hot from the walking and the sun. This section of the hike is for a lot of exploring and stopping. There is no rush to get to the hut and so whenever there is an interesting cove or cliff, time is taken to absorb the splendour. Also the cliff edges are dangerous so we walk slowly and take care. Today we see at various times a baboon scout near to our tea spot, Tok Tokkies (this is a scarab beetle that reacts to the tapping of a finger just behind it), Dung Beetles, rock Kestrel, gulls and crows, jelly fish and blue bottles, a chameleon (verkleurmannetjie), a few pairs of the endangered Oyster Catchers, Cape Robin, the Southern Boubou (with it’s delightful call), three Klipspringer that Barbara and Jap see whilst the rest of us see only the spoor. Gerald and I do some close up exploring of the cliff while Trevor shows his cliff climbing ability as he descends to a huge cave below. Today we make a tea stop just as the Springbok rugby team is beating the Samoans something like 60 to 10.
We reach Stilgat at 12.00 and descend the chain ladder leaving our packs at the top. Fortunately Trevor has his torch with him and we are able to explore the caves. Here we see what we think are bats, stalactites (top) and stalagmites (bottom) and strange looking caterpillars. The pools have the largest blue bottles that I have ever seen but Trevor braves these and the cold water for a swim. Jap is at the top and responds to a “dare”. He clambers down the ladder rushes across to the pool, persuades Trevor to get back into the water then promptly grabs poor Trevor’s clothes. So to our great delight and amoungst much laughter Trevor has to climb the ladder dressed only in a pair of bright yellow jocks. I find a well worn plank and a mess of rope. These I carry on to the Hammerkop hut so that we can add our mark to this hut. At Stilgat we begin our whale spotting. We also see what is known as tail lobbing. A whale quite a distance out to sea is slapping its tail repeatedly onto the water surface and then after a count of 5 we are able to hear the slapping sound. It seems that this may be a form of communication and used by whales to stun the fish. Many of the whales we see seem to be in pairs. We think that it is the mother and calf. After a short beach walk we reach Hammerkop hut. It is a beautiful hut overlooking the beach where swimming is not really possible. And as we have come to expect when we get there at about 16.00 our bags are waiting for us. A huge disappointment is that there is not hot water. We think that this is due to a lack of water pressure. Jap starts the fire and Bill takes an early dose of medicine. While sitting at the fireside we see three whales giving us a demonstration of tail and flipper slapping. These whales are very close to the shore, just off the breakers. Jap does the fire thing and he also brands the plank that I carried with the Voetsac Hiking club’s name. This is mounted at the entrance to the hut. Today was a long day. Not in distance but it was our first full day of sunshine and we did a lot of exploring so everyone is pretty clapped and shortly after sunset at 20.00 most of us are in bed.
DAY FOUR------HAMMERKOP TO VAALKRAANS HUT 8kays
This morning I walk up the jeep track for about a half hour to see if I can get cell phone reception. It is a tough walk but eventually I am able to SMS my family and the running group who are in Athens to run the Greek marathon. Bill is worried about the heat and the long beach trek that is ahead of us so we set off at 07.30 this morning. Some of us are barefoot, others in sandals or boots. I am not sure which was the best choice but I enjoyed the sand and water on my feet. We have barely started when Bill is caught by a wave and swept off his feet. And loses his stick (given to him by Round Table). Fortunately Judy finds it washed up a little further on. Today we see about 18 pairs of Oyster Catchers. We also see plenty of Terns, Gulls and Sandpipers.
This morning we hike beaches and pathways for about three hours and come to a sign with an apple. We presume that this is the location of the blowholes. I have a swim here but it is not really pleasant as there is only a shelf but helps to cool down on a hot day. This becomes a tea stop but most spectacular of all are the two blow holes that can be seen from the rocks above. The ocean rushes into these two small holes in the rock shelf creating the most entertaining water showers. Ruth is at her very best with cries of Yahooo, Oh Wow, who pee? And other exclamations of delight. After an hour we press on. I have retrieved myself another piece of rope and Trevor rescues a buoy and later on a soft children’s ball. We reach this our last hut at 13.00. This hut is situated on the edge if the cliff and it appears that we are on an overhang with very little between us and the ocean. Next to the hut is a hole. If you are prepared to stick your head into the hole you can see the sea below. Ruth discovers this phenomenon and (to the amusement of those parking out in the kitchen) calls all to marvel at this wonder of nature. Today we estimate that we have probably seen between 20 to 30 whales since Noetsie. This evening is filled with chatter and laughter. The last of the alcohol is consumed with the evening snacks which include Pringles, p-nut and raisins, smoked oysters, mature cheddar on biscuits and avocado on rye. Who says that porterage of the bags is not the way to go? This hut also has an upstairs but Peter is unable to fit through the narrow stairway so they usurp the bunks of Jap and Christine who move mattresses to the kitchen. The buoy that Trevor has carried is roped to a beam in the kitchen roof and the soft ball is adorned with our names and Jap makes a sling and this too is mounted above the kitchen counter. The wind is howling outside so there is not too much objection to those wanting to remain indoors for the afternoon after a welcome hot shower with a bit of reading and general chit chat. A problem with this hut is the flies. They are everywhere and the hut needs mesh on the windows and doors as well as fly strips or liberal quantities of Doom. Fortunately they are not evening creatures and we have a peaceful evening.
DAY FIVE------VAALRAKNS TO KOPPIE ALLEEN. 7kays
It is our last day. By now it seems that the whole team is used to an early start so by 07.00 we are ready to go. The hike today is mainly along pathways. There is a beach walk but is seems that there is not much enthusiasm for anymore soft sand walking. It is only a 3 hour walk even including some stops but we must be at the finish by 12.00 to catch the bus back to Potberg camp. The early morning excitement is a baboon spider lurking at the entrance to the hut. It is eventually left alone to carry on with its life. Shortly after we start we see Klipspringer spoor on the trail. Barbara leads the group and is able to spot the pair as they check us out from about 100meters away. Today we also see whale breaching. This is the whale jumping out of the water completely. We have also seen some “spy hopping” where the whale sticks his head out of the water to “check the scene out”.
The highlight of today’s hike is finding some whale bones on a beach below. We loosen a whole lot of them, carry them up to the trail and make ourselves a whale spinal cord adorned with rib bones. If left alone by other hikers this will make a very good photo spot. We get to Koppie Alleen by 10.00. We seem to have missed a turn somewhere and end up at the training facility so walk down to the information centre where other tourists have gathered to do some whale watching. We have ourselves a bit of lunch and while waiting for the bus we see about 12 whales passing by. The bus is a school bus from the local Ouplaas primary school which has only 25 pupils. The bus is driven by Adele Du Toit who is a “mom”, a farmer and runs a B & B. The 35km drive back to Potberg takes an hour. Adele provides a cooler box with ice cold beverages. At the gate to De Hoop Barbara and Pat purchase a badge. At Potberg we meet Nomfundo who is very responsive to written report back that I have prepared.
POTBERG TO PE ---550km
On the advice of the mechanic back in PE we check the engine to see if we can see oil which we can and so decide that despite the flashing oil light we will press on back home. Trevor is less fortunate and has a flat tyre. We decide to drive back in convoy and this reassures both of us. Before leaving Potberg we drive back to the parking area to see if there was any oil leakage where the combi was parked. There was none but what we did find was Gerald’s backpack lying next to the hut. We bid Peter and Judy goodbye as they are carrying on for a week’s holiday and tour of the wine-lands of the Western Cape. We decide to take the pontoon route through Malgas again. Here we receive an SMS that all the runners have finished the Greek marathon. Tracey says it is the toughest in her life. At Heidelberg we stop at the same little shop where we purchased the most delicious biltong and Gerald buys a memento. The drive back to PE is great in that it is uneventful. We are all home by 21.30.
Peter Giddy
5 November 2003
Wednesday, November 5, 2003
WHALE TRAIL NOVEMBER 2003
Whale Trail. 29th October 2003 to 3 November 2003
Cape Nature Conservation.
dehoopinfo@sdm.dorea.co.za
028 542 1126/7
Bill Corkill (082 556 0012)
Ruth Stasiak (041 585 8147) stasiak@telkomsa.net
Trevor Lloyd (083 966 0636)
Peter & Barbara Giddy (082 550 3174) pgiddy@hinet.co.za
Jap & Christine (Wasmuth) Coetzer (082 880 1453) japcoetzer@cybertrade.co.za
Peter and Judy Adams (082 600 6411) peter.adams@schenker.co.za
Gerald and Pat Scheepers (082 788 0522) marmow@telkomsa.net
Voetsac Hiking Club
Post hike reunion for Hikers and family alike will be held at Peter and Barbara (23 Mill Park Road) in the form of a Bring & Braai on Friday 14th November 18.00. We will swap stories and photos. Please call to confirm.
This trail was introduced to our running group over a year ago when Graham Richards came back from an epic trip in which he and his group had been snowed in the mountains of the Western Cape. We reserved our place in the hike over a year in advance. Bill spoke about the trail during our runs and Gerald and I immediately registered our interest in the form of a deposit. It was to be Gerald and Pat’s first long hike.
Our pre-hike meeting was held at the Westview sports club. During this meeting another group from the Voetsac club gave a report back on some of their experiences. One of the main problems seems to be that the directions to the start of the hike are not clear from the website or the hike map. Gerald and Pat were assigned to our Combi as were Jap and Christine. Barbara & I visited J & C to be sure that we knew where to go to collect them in the morning. By consensus we decided to leave at 05.00am on the Wednesday morning. This would give us plenty of time to find the hike and to do a bit of exploring in the reserve as well.
DAY ONE---PE to POTBERG
P & B left home at 04.45, filled with petrol, bought a coffee, collected G & P then J & C and we left PE at 05.30. Storms River was the first stop. We filled up with coffee and snacks. Then onto Mossell Bay where we had a filling Wimpy breakfast. Heidelberg (487Kays) was our last chance to make our final purchases of biltong and water. 3Kays out of town we turned left to Slangriver. Malgas (Malagas on the local signboards) is 45kays from Heidelberg on a dirt road. Alfred who has pulled the Pontoon across the Breede River for 20 years is accompanied by Gideon and William. They are employed by the Overberg Municipality. The R15.00 trip across takes about 7.5 minutes. 5Kays after Malgas we spotted 4 Cape Vulture. They were amoungst some sheep. We speculated that they were either interested in a dead sheep or in the afterbirth of the sheep that were lambing. The Dirt road to Potberg is fairly well signposted but should not be undertaken after dark. Our group was fortunate to be able to see the local farmers busy with their combine harvesters as they worked in their fields threshing and collecting the wheat. These farmers also farm Canola, Barley, Oats and Ostrich. I collected some Ostrich feathers for Christine but they were grey and scraggly and I don’t think that she was at all impressed. Another feature of the drive to Potberg was the Blue Crane and Bontebok with their young. The Bontebok in this area is the result of a farmer who realised that the buck were almost extinct with only 27 left. He set aside an area for them which has grown in size to the Bontebok game reserve. There are now over 1500 of the beautiful white faced buck in the area.
We checked in to the hiking hut after a brief chat to Eileen who is the secretary of the Potberg camp. Nomfundo (the trail manager) was away for a while. After we had settled in and claimed our bunks we set off for a drive across to the De Hoop entrance to the reserve. We were greeted with much friendliness at the gate. From here we visited the main camp and did the circular drive. Here we saw Cape Zebra and Bontebok. The camp is perfect for those wanting some bird watching in the on the river beds and swamps. We stopped off at the Tierhoek lookout. Just outside of the main reserve is the Buchubush lodge. (028 542 1602) We were later to learn that the Buchu Bush is part of the fynbos of the area. At the lodge we were warmly greeted by Bronwyn who offered us a welcome cup of tea. It appears that Eileen’s husband has created this lodge (a set of 5 thatched self-catering luxury chalets with meals also provided in the main building) mainly for overseas visitors. The chalets cost R615 per night and sleep up to 6 people. Back to Potberg hut where we met up with Bill, Ruth, Judy, Peter and Trevor. The 12th member of the team was unable to come due to a sudden illness. Bill declared that “Happy Hour was in future to be at 17.00 and that we were a half hour late for which we were reprimanded. A little later Louise came to give us some instructions and rules of the trail. We had opted for the porterage where a suitcase per couple would be collected at each of the huts every morning and transported to the next hut for us. We would be carrying lighter day packs. For a mere R200 per bag this turned out to be a real civilised way to hike as we had luxury meals and plenty to drink throughout the five day hike. That evening we lit our fire and decided that the next morning’s activities may not begin before 06.00 and that we would start the hike at about 07.30. Bill announced that they had already spotted whales at Wilderness. Barbara confirmed that she had also seen these whales but that I had been driving too fast. MMMM? Judy and Peter had to do some repacking of their suitcases. Trevor had had two interesting encounters with people that he knew, one at the station shop in Sedgefield where they had stopped for pies and the second on the Pontoon at Malgas. The last thing I remember that evening was looking up at the Potberg Mountain that we would be climbing the next morning.
DAY TWO------POTBERG TO CUPIDO”S KRAAL 15KM
I collected the combi from the parking lot to be able to load the stuff that we would not be taking on the hike. It was at this time that the oil light started to flash. This was very worrying to me and I added my reserve tin of oil to the engine but this did not help so Jap and I walked across to the office where we found Louise who offered to buy two more pints of oil for me. After much organising and last minute packing we left the hut at 08.00 and walked up into mist. Barbara had had blood pressure problems and was feeling extremely giddy (excuse the pun) as we began our ascent. However the mist kept us cool and we were able to do the first 4 kays in about 90minutes. This took us to the beacon of the Potberg Mountain which is at 611m above sea level and is the highest point of the hike. Here Gerald proved the use of a cell phone as he was able to organise his business from here. As we made this ascent we were treated to Egyptian geese and some of the most colourful fynbos that we have ever seen. It was after the short stop at the top that we experienced the earthquake. Jap had claimed the tail of the group and was found to be madly scrambling for his camera while Bill was flat on his back in the bushes. Apart from scratched legs; no injuries. By 11.00 the mist began to lift and we were able to appreciate some of the views as we walked along the ridged summit of the mountain. We were able to see the Breede River to the East and the valleys of the Potberg to the West. Unfortunately no vultures were spotted. For the record we noticed a bit of soil erosion taking place at one section just before the 8kay mark that needs a bit of management by the rangers. For a while I led the party & had to avoid a number of black and white spotted spiders the size of a R2 coin that seemed to lay their webs across the trail and camouflaged themselves to look like the seeds of the Luca Dendron protea of the area.
13.00 was a well timed lunch stop at the second crossing of the Melkhout River. Do not be tempted to stop at the first crossing as there is far less place for twelve to gather. And on a hot day you may want to have a cooling dip. At this stream we were well past the 10kay mark but the sign indicates 5.7kay to go. This was not true as we covered this last section of the hike in just 90mins. As we reached the top of the hill we saw the dam below us and shortly afterwards the huts. This was like a red flag to a bull as the front group set off at a dash to reach the hut. We arrived at Cupido’s Kraal hut at 15.00. It was here that we saw our first sighting of the Yellow Backed Widow. A stunningly black and yellow bird that habits the mountain fynbos. We are also able to identify the Cape Sugar Bird that seems to enjoy the nectar of the Pincushion Protea that are just outside the hut braai area. This hut consisted of 4 rooms, two downstairs and two upstairs. I only found out later that the upstairs rooms do not have bunks and that those sleeping upstairs have mattresses on the floor. However the mattresses are most comfortable. Trevor and I went to the dam where we had a swim, wash and a paddle in the canoe. Today Peter had been bitten by a horsefly. I heard that it is the female horsefly that seeks out blood whereas the male looks for nectar.
By the time we returned to the hut we found that Bill had brought forward happy hour by an hour. “Purely medicinal purposes” he claimed. Bill, as leader, had set some rules for the hike. One of these was that we hike together as a group. This was foreign to myself as we had often attempted to do this with our own hikes but it had never worked out but so far today it seemed to work quite well. The other rule was that everyone must put in a report for the day’s activities during happy hour. This worked well tonight but not really again as the group left the written work to me. Ruth declared that the weather had been perfect for hiking. Jap suggested that a lean-to shelter would have been perfect at the lunch stop especially for a hot day as there is little or no shade on this hike and the Protea fields can be quite stifling hot. During happy hour each evening Judy would take out her embroidery to make slow but steady progress. I discovered the Luca Dendron is the yellow tipped leafy protea that covers the fields and gives them that yellow appearance. This evening we really appreciate the fact that there are hot showers. These are powered by gas. In addition we are able to have electric lights in the evening which are powered by solar panels that recharge the batteries. Even in the overcast weather we have sufficient light in the evenings. Tonight we discover that Jap is an expert fireman as he truly sets himself the evening task of lighting the fire and keeping it going both outside in the drizzle as well as in the kitchen where we are able to boil water in the big black kettle that is provided. We are all fairly exhausted and not much sounds are heard after 21.00.
DAY THREE-----CUPIDOSKRAAL HUT TO NOETSIES HUT 15KM
This morning I cannot contain myself and am up earlier than the agreed 06.00. It looks like it will be a great day for hiking again. Slightly overcast with a slight cool breeze coming from the east. We begin the day with a variety of breakfasts. Pat makes Gerald his obligatory two cups of really strong and well sugared coffee. Combine this with a double dose of oats so easy and some “tit bits” and he is set for the days walk. I prepare our lunch which will be rye vita, liver pate, celery, carrots, tomatoes, lettuce, cheese, dates, sugared dried fruit and sweets. And washed down with a rare vintage of game. Boy it is going to be a rough day! We start the day with a photo session. And then are off! Just outside is a suspension bridge. This has to be negotiated one at a time to avoid falling into the muddy stream. We leave at 08.20 and are at the beacon at the top of this hill at 10.00.
This is not a tough walk and the views and sculptured sandstone should be enjoyed. We were able to identify rock sculptures of pigs, Egyptian pharaohs, elephants, tortoises, and various other shapes as we walked this very colourful and interesting pathway. As we were going up the hill we saw the van that collects the baggage on its way to the hut. And were completely fooled as to where the overnight hut was to be. Jap laid down his stick and ran down to them. It turned out that he wanted them to buy him some more film. They of course were more than wiling. It was the kind of friendly service that we had come to appreciate on this hike. Jap has two cameras and I am looking forward to see the results of all his efforts. A good place to stop for tea is at the beacon at the top of the Hammerkop mountain where there is a rocky area which provides a good backrest which I, for one, need. At about 09.15 the sun makes an attempt to warm us up through the clouds but not for long as the clouds win the morning. We make our tea stop at 10.00 where we get cell phone reception. Bill and Trevor try to contact home but to no avail as their respective spouses are either busy on the phone or out spending their money on “unnecessary luxuries”. Today there is a short climb but thereafter this could be a long day if we did not have the cloud cover. A good portion of the walk is along the ridge of the mountain where there is no shade and could be tough on a hot day. Apart from the first day there is no water or streams to replenish water bottles so an additional supply of water is essential. Just after 11.00 we begin the descent along the Zorro path. We are now able to see our cove where we know the huts to be situated.
Immediately after crossing the forest road we stop for lunch. By now the sun is in full force and most of us suffer from a bit of sunburn around the neck and face. A Black Eagle was spotted at our lunch spot. Today a few small snakes slithered across our path. They were definitely no threat to the hikers. We begin the final stretch to the huts at 13.00. This is an interesting part of the hike and should not be rushed. It is the first time we come across the Port Jackson Willow. However the bird life, fynbos, geckos, dung beetles and Tok Tokkies make the walk fun. Look out for the waterfall in the kloof. Once we see the huts we have a further 45mins before we amble into them. The steep downhill to the beach again claimed Bill and he had an involuntary sit down. Boots are changed for sandals and I am able to persuade Gerald (who hates anything that is not at bath temperature) to go for a swim. Peter is already in the waves. “Most unusual for him” says Judy. But we have the most enjoyable swim both in the waves and the lagoon. Trevor and co find a swimming pool above the little waterfall near to the hut. At this location there are two huts, one is for sleeping and the other for the kitchen and bathrooms. And there is a gas cooker to add to the luxury of the hut. A negative is that the rain leaks into the sleeping area for those on the mezzanine or the top bunk under the windows. The braai area is overlooking the rocks and this is an ideal place to make your mark on the trail with some flotsam and jetsam. Ropes and other paraphernalia are added by the various hiking groups to the braai structure. I am able to find a suitable plank to add to the roof. We also found a worn plank and wrote the Voetsack name on it for following groups to see that we were a force to be reckoned with! This was to be the forerunner of our trademark.
Some of the more energetic went exploring further and others brought forward the happy hour or just settled into a bit of reading. At this hut there is a huge amount of laundry taking place. Even Gerald is seen to be hanging up his (now clean) socks. The washing lines and bushes are littered with freshly smelling (in our opinion anyway) clothes. While Bill had his CD player and Mozart to relax by. Jap did his fire thing and those who still had fresh meat made use of the fire while others used it for an excuse to mellow out until way past sunset. The jeep track leading to the hut reveals the necessity for the hardiest vehicle available. There is no cell phone reception here, so even of you run out of beers you are unable to call for rescue. This evening we experience the best sunset of the hike as we sit and watch the ocean, clouds and sun merge into a burst of colour and fire. Today Bill has taken a great deal of strain on the down hills and is clearly in pain. He announces that this is his last five day hike. Judy proves to be the bird expert and points out the Grey-back Cisticola, the Familiar Chat, Orange Breasted Sunbird and we have also seen Rock Kestrel today.
DAY FOUR-----NOETSIE TO HAMMERKOP HUT. 8km
Jap and I are up early as usual. After a quick wash and coffee Jap spots the first whale of the day but we (mistakenly ) decide that this is a large rock. Barbara confirms the whale sighting a short while later. Essential equipment for this hike is a good pair of Binoculars, a pocket bird book as well as a camera. So our first whale sighting was at 06.30am at Noetsie on 01 November 2003. Today is also a special day as the Springboks play Samoa for a place in the semi-finals and after the Samoans gave the British team a tough game we are sceptical of the Springboks ability to win this one. The rest of the morning at the hut is one of shouts of glee and “thar she blows” as we spot whales, tails and flippers. The Southern Right Whale does not have a dorsal fin. The whale is the length of 10 elephants when fully grown and 6 at birth. Binoculars are essential for a full appreciation of the enormous size of these creatures. The morning starts off with rain and so we are huddled in doorways trying to catch a glimpse of these magnificent animals which we are going to see so much of later on in the hike. The choppy seas make identification of the whales and their shapes that much more difficult.
By 09.00 the rain has stopped and we make our way back across the beach to the hill and we are soon hot from the walking and the sun. This section of the hike is for a lot of exploring and stopping. There is no rush to get to the hut and so whenever there is an interesting cove or cliff, time is taken to absorb the splendour. Also the cliff edges are dangerous so we walk slowly and take care. Today we see at various times a baboon scout near to our tea spot, Tok Tokkies (this is a scarab beetle that reacts to the tapping of a finger just behind it), Dung Beetles, rock Kestrel, gulls and crows, jelly fish and blue bottles, a chameleon (verkleurmannetjie), a few pairs of the endangered Oyster Catchers, Cape Robin, the Southern Boubou (with it’s delightful call), three Klipspringer that Barbara and Jap see whilst the rest of us see only the spoor. Gerald and I do some close up exploring of the cliff while Trevor shows his cliff climbing ability as he descends to a huge cave below. Today we make a tea stop just as the Springbok rugby team is beating the Samoans something like 60 to 10.
We reach Stilgat at 12.00 and descend the chain ladder leaving our packs at the top. Fortunately Trevor has his torch with him and we are able to explore the caves. Here we see what we think are bats, stalactites (top) and stalagmites (bottom) and strange looking caterpillars. The pools have the largest blue bottles that I have ever seen but Trevor braves these and the cold water for a swim. Jap is at the top and responds to a “dare”. He clambers down the ladder rushes across to the pool, persuades Trevor to get back into the water then promptly grabs poor Trevor’s clothes. So to our great delight and amoungst much laughter Trevor has to climb the ladder dressed only in a pair of bright yellow jocks. I find a well worn plank and a mess of rope. These I carry on to the Hammerkop hut so that we can add our mark to this hut. At Stilgat we begin our whale spotting. We also see what is known as tail lobbing. A whale quite a distance out to sea is slapping its tail repeatedly onto the water surface and then after a count of 5 we are able to hear the slapping sound. It seems that this may be a form of communication and used by whales to stun the fish. Many of the whales we see seem to be in pairs. We think that it is the mother and calf. After a short beach walk we reach Hammerkop hut. It is a beautiful hut overlooking the beach where swimming is not really possible. And as we have come to expect when we get there at about 16.00 our bags are waiting for us. A huge disappointment is that there is not hot water. We think that this is due to a lack of water pressure. Jap starts the fire and Bill takes an early dose of medicine. While sitting at the fireside we see three whales giving us a demonstration of tail and flipper slapping. These whales are very close to the shore, just off the breakers. Jap does the fire thing and he also brands the plank that I carried with the Voetsac Hiking club’s name. This is mounted at the entrance to the hut. Today was a long day. Not in distance but it was our first full day of sunshine and we did a lot of exploring so everyone is pretty clapped and shortly after sunset at 20.00 most of us are in bed.
DAY FOUR------HAMMERKOP TO VAALKRAANS HUT 8kays
This morning I walk up the jeep track for about a half hour to see if I can get cell phone reception. It is a tough walk but eventually I am able to SMS my family and the running group who are in Athens to run the Greek marathon. Bill is worried about the heat and the long beach trek that is ahead of us so we set off at 07.30 this morning. Some of us are barefoot, others in sandals or boots. I am not sure which was the best choice but I enjoyed the sand and water on my feet. We have barely started when Bill is caught by a wave and swept off his feet. And loses his stick (given to him by Round Table). Fortunately Judy finds it washed up a little further on. Today we see about 18 pairs of Oyster Catchers. We also see plenty of Terns, Gulls and Sandpipers.
This morning we hike beaches and pathways for about three hours and come to a sign with an apple. We presume that this is the location of the blowholes. I have a swim here but it is not really pleasant as there is only a shelf but helps to cool down on a hot day. This becomes a tea stop but most spectacular of all are the two blow holes that can be seen from the rocks above. The ocean rushes into these two small holes in the rock shelf creating the most entertaining water showers. Ruth is at her very best with cries of Yahooo, Oh Wow, who pee? And other exclamations of delight. After an hour we press on. I have retrieved myself another piece of rope and Trevor rescues a buoy and later on a soft children’s ball. We reach this our last hut at 13.00. This hut is situated on the edge if the cliff and it appears that we are on an overhang with very little between us and the ocean. Next to the hut is a hole. If you are prepared to stick your head into the hole you can see the sea below. Ruth discovers this phenomenon and (to the amusement of those parking out in the kitchen) calls all to marvel at this wonder of nature. Today we estimate that we have probably seen between 20 to 30 whales since Noetsie. This evening is filled with chatter and laughter. The last of the alcohol is consumed with the evening snacks which include Pringles, p-nut and raisins, smoked oysters, mature cheddar on biscuits and avocado on rye. Who says that porterage of the bags is not the way to go? This hut also has an upstairs but Peter is unable to fit through the narrow stairway so they usurp the bunks of Jap and Christine who move mattresses to the kitchen. The buoy that Trevor has carried is roped to a beam in the kitchen roof and the soft ball is adorned with our names and Jap makes a sling and this too is mounted above the kitchen counter. The wind is howling outside so there is not too much objection to those wanting to remain indoors for the afternoon after a welcome hot shower with a bit of reading and general chit chat. A problem with this hut is the flies. They are everywhere and the hut needs mesh on the windows and doors as well as fly strips or liberal quantities of Doom. Fortunately they are not evening creatures and we have a peaceful evening.
DAY FIVE------VAALRAKNS TO KOPPIE ALLEEN. 7kays
It is our last day. By now it seems that the whole team is used to an early start so by 07.00 we are ready to go. The hike today is mainly along pathways. There is a beach walk but is seems that there is not much enthusiasm for anymore soft sand walking. It is only a 3 hour walk even including some stops but we must be at the finish by 12.00 to catch the bus back to Potberg camp. The early morning excitement is a baboon spider lurking at the entrance to the hut. It is eventually left alone to carry on with its life. Shortly after we start we see Klipspringer spoor on the trail. Barbara leads the group and is able to spot the pair as they check us out from about 100meters away. Today we also see whale breaching. This is the whale jumping out of the water completely. We have also seen some “spy hopping” where the whale sticks his head out of the water to “check the scene out”.
The highlight of today’s hike is finding some whale bones on a beach below. We loosen a whole lot of them, carry them up to the trail and make ourselves a whale spinal cord adorned with rib bones. If left alone by other hikers this will make a very good photo spot. We get to Koppie Alleen by 10.00. We seem to have missed a turn somewhere and end up at the training facility so walk down to the information centre where other tourists have gathered to do some whale watching. We have ourselves a bit of lunch and while waiting for the bus we see about 12 whales passing by. The bus is a school bus from the local Ouplaas primary school which has only 25 pupils. The bus is driven by Adele Du Toit who is a “mom”, a farmer and runs a B & B. The 35km drive back to Potberg takes an hour. Adele provides a cooler box with ice cold beverages. At the gate to De Hoop Barbara and Pat purchase a badge. At Potberg we meet Nomfundo who is very responsive to written report back that I have prepared.
POTBERG TO PE ---550km
On the advice of the mechanic back in PE we check the engine to see if we can see oil which we can and so decide that despite the flashing oil light we will press on back home. Trevor is less fortunate and has a flat tyre. We decide to drive back in convoy and this reassures both of us. Before leaving Potberg we drive back to the parking area to see if there was any oil leakage where the combi was parked. There was none but what we did find was Gerald’s backpack lying next to the hut. We bid Peter and Judy goodbye as they are carrying on for a week’s holiday and tour of the wine-lands of the Western Cape. We decide to take the pontoon route through Malgas again. Here we receive an SMS that all the runners have finished the Greek marathon. Tracey says it is the toughest in her life. At Heidelberg we stop at the same little shop where we purchased the most delicious biltong and Gerald buys a memento. The drive back to PE is great in that it is uneventful. We are all home by 21.30.
Peter Giddy
5 November 2003
Cape Nature Conservation.
dehoopinfo@sdm.dorea.co.za
028 542 1126/7
Bill Corkill (082 556 0012)
Ruth Stasiak (041 585 8147) stasiak@telkomsa.net
Trevor Lloyd (083 966 0636)
Peter & Barbara Giddy (082 550 3174) pgiddy@hinet.co.za
Jap & Christine (Wasmuth) Coetzer (082 880 1453) japcoetzer@cybertrade.co.za
Peter and Judy Adams (082 600 6411) peter.adams@schenker.co.za
Gerald and Pat Scheepers (082 788 0522) marmow@telkomsa.net
Voetsac Hiking Club
Post hike reunion for Hikers and family alike will be held at Peter and Barbara (23 Mill Park Road) in the form of a Bring & Braai on Friday 14th November 18.00. We will swap stories and photos. Please call to confirm.
This trail was introduced to our running group over a year ago when Graham Richards came back from an epic trip in which he and his group had been snowed in the mountains of the Western Cape. We reserved our place in the hike over a year in advance. Bill spoke about the trail during our runs and Gerald and I immediately registered our interest in the form of a deposit. It was to be Gerald and Pat’s first long hike.
Our pre-hike meeting was held at the Westview sports club. During this meeting another group from the Voetsac club gave a report back on some of their experiences. One of the main problems seems to be that the directions to the start of the hike are not clear from the website or the hike map. Gerald and Pat were assigned to our Combi as were Jap and Christine. Barbara & I visited J & C to be sure that we knew where to go to collect them in the morning. By consensus we decided to leave at 05.00am on the Wednesday morning. This would give us plenty of time to find the hike and to do a bit of exploring in the reserve as well.
DAY ONE---PE to POTBERG
P & B left home at 04.45, filled with petrol, bought a coffee, collected G & P then J & C and we left PE at 05.30. Storms River was the first stop. We filled up with coffee and snacks. Then onto Mossell Bay where we had a filling Wimpy breakfast. Heidelberg (487Kays) was our last chance to make our final purchases of biltong and water. 3Kays out of town we turned left to Slangriver. Malgas (Malagas on the local signboards) is 45kays from Heidelberg on a dirt road. Alfred who has pulled the Pontoon across the Breede River for 20 years is accompanied by Gideon and William. They are employed by the Overberg Municipality. The R15.00 trip across takes about 7.5 minutes. 5Kays after Malgas we spotted 4 Cape Vulture. They were amoungst some sheep. We speculated that they were either interested in a dead sheep or in the afterbirth of the sheep that were lambing. The Dirt road to Potberg is fairly well signposted but should not be undertaken after dark. Our group was fortunate to be able to see the local farmers busy with their combine harvesters as they worked in their fields threshing and collecting the wheat. These farmers also farm Canola, Barley, Oats and Ostrich. I collected some Ostrich feathers for Christine but they were grey and scraggly and I don’t think that she was at all impressed. Another feature of the drive to Potberg was the Blue Crane and Bontebok with their young. The Bontebok in this area is the result of a farmer who realised that the buck were almost extinct with only 27 left. He set aside an area for them which has grown in size to the Bontebok game reserve. There are now over 1500 of the beautiful white faced buck in the area.
We checked in to the hiking hut after a brief chat to Eileen who is the secretary of the Potberg camp. Nomfundo (the trail manager) was away for a while. After we had settled in and claimed our bunks we set off for a drive across to the De Hoop entrance to the reserve. We were greeted with much friendliness at the gate. From here we visited the main camp and did the circular drive. Here we saw Cape Zebra and Bontebok. The camp is perfect for those wanting some bird watching in the on the river beds and swamps. We stopped off at the Tierhoek lookout. Just outside of the main reserve is the Buchubush lodge. (028 542 1602) We were later to learn that the Buchu Bush is part of the fynbos of the area. At the lodge we were warmly greeted by Bronwyn who offered us a welcome cup of tea. It appears that Eileen’s husband has created this lodge (a set of 5 thatched self-catering luxury chalets with meals also provided in the main building) mainly for overseas visitors. The chalets cost R615 per night and sleep up to 6 people. Back to Potberg hut where we met up with Bill, Ruth, Judy, Peter and Trevor. The 12th member of the team was unable to come due to a sudden illness. Bill declared that “Happy Hour was in future to be at 17.00 and that we were a half hour late for which we were reprimanded. A little later Louise came to give us some instructions and rules of the trail. We had opted for the porterage where a suitcase per couple would be collected at each of the huts every morning and transported to the next hut for us. We would be carrying lighter day packs. For a mere R200 per bag this turned out to be a real civilised way to hike as we had luxury meals and plenty to drink throughout the five day hike. That evening we lit our fire and decided that the next morning’s activities may not begin before 06.00 and that we would start the hike at about 07.30. Bill announced that they had already spotted whales at Wilderness. Barbara confirmed that she had also seen these whales but that I had been driving too fast. MMMM? Judy and Peter had to do some repacking of their suitcases. Trevor had had two interesting encounters with people that he knew, one at the station shop in Sedgefield where they had stopped for pies and the second on the Pontoon at Malgas. The last thing I remember that evening was looking up at the Potberg Mountain that we would be climbing the next morning.
DAY TWO------POTBERG TO CUPIDO”S KRAAL 15KM
I collected the combi from the parking lot to be able to load the stuff that we would not be taking on the hike. It was at this time that the oil light started to flash. This was very worrying to me and I added my reserve tin of oil to the engine but this did not help so Jap and I walked across to the office where we found Louise who offered to buy two more pints of oil for me. After much organising and last minute packing we left the hut at 08.00 and walked up into mist. Barbara had had blood pressure problems and was feeling extremely giddy (excuse the pun) as we began our ascent. However the mist kept us cool and we were able to do the first 4 kays in about 90minutes. This took us to the beacon of the Potberg Mountain which is at 611m above sea level and is the highest point of the hike. Here Gerald proved the use of a cell phone as he was able to organise his business from here. As we made this ascent we were treated to Egyptian geese and some of the most colourful fynbos that we have ever seen. It was after the short stop at the top that we experienced the earthquake. Jap had claimed the tail of the group and was found to be madly scrambling for his camera while Bill was flat on his back in the bushes. Apart from scratched legs; no injuries. By 11.00 the mist began to lift and we were able to appreciate some of the views as we walked along the ridged summit of the mountain. We were able to see the Breede River to the East and the valleys of the Potberg to the West. Unfortunately no vultures were spotted. For the record we noticed a bit of soil erosion taking place at one section just before the 8kay mark that needs a bit of management by the rangers. For a while I led the party & had to avoid a number of black and white spotted spiders the size of a R2 coin that seemed to lay their webs across the trail and camouflaged themselves to look like the seeds of the Luca Dendron protea of the area.
13.00 was a well timed lunch stop at the second crossing of the Melkhout River. Do not be tempted to stop at the first crossing as there is far less place for twelve to gather. And on a hot day you may want to have a cooling dip. At this stream we were well past the 10kay mark but the sign indicates 5.7kay to go. This was not true as we covered this last section of the hike in just 90mins. As we reached the top of the hill we saw the dam below us and shortly afterwards the huts. This was like a red flag to a bull as the front group set off at a dash to reach the hut. We arrived at Cupido’s Kraal hut at 15.00. It was here that we saw our first sighting of the Yellow Backed Widow. A stunningly black and yellow bird that habits the mountain fynbos. We are also able to identify the Cape Sugar Bird that seems to enjoy the nectar of the Pincushion Protea that are just outside the hut braai area. This hut consisted of 4 rooms, two downstairs and two upstairs. I only found out later that the upstairs rooms do not have bunks and that those sleeping upstairs have mattresses on the floor. However the mattresses are most comfortable. Trevor and I went to the dam where we had a swim, wash and a paddle in the canoe. Today Peter had been bitten by a horsefly. I heard that it is the female horsefly that seeks out blood whereas the male looks for nectar.
By the time we returned to the hut we found that Bill had brought forward happy hour by an hour. “Purely medicinal purposes” he claimed. Bill, as leader, had set some rules for the hike. One of these was that we hike together as a group. This was foreign to myself as we had often attempted to do this with our own hikes but it had never worked out but so far today it seemed to work quite well. The other rule was that everyone must put in a report for the day’s activities during happy hour. This worked well tonight but not really again as the group left the written work to me. Ruth declared that the weather had been perfect for hiking. Jap suggested that a lean-to shelter would have been perfect at the lunch stop especially for a hot day as there is little or no shade on this hike and the Protea fields can be quite stifling hot. During happy hour each evening Judy would take out her embroidery to make slow but steady progress. I discovered the Luca Dendron is the yellow tipped leafy protea that covers the fields and gives them that yellow appearance. This evening we really appreciate the fact that there are hot showers. These are powered by gas. In addition we are able to have electric lights in the evening which are powered by solar panels that recharge the batteries. Even in the overcast weather we have sufficient light in the evenings. Tonight we discover that Jap is an expert fireman as he truly sets himself the evening task of lighting the fire and keeping it going both outside in the drizzle as well as in the kitchen where we are able to boil water in the big black kettle that is provided. We are all fairly exhausted and not much sounds are heard after 21.00.
DAY THREE-----CUPIDOSKRAAL HUT TO NOETSIES HUT 15KM
This morning I cannot contain myself and am up earlier than the agreed 06.00. It looks like it will be a great day for hiking again. Slightly overcast with a slight cool breeze coming from the east. We begin the day with a variety of breakfasts. Pat makes Gerald his obligatory two cups of really strong and well sugared coffee. Combine this with a double dose of oats so easy and some “tit bits” and he is set for the days walk. I prepare our lunch which will be rye vita, liver pate, celery, carrots, tomatoes, lettuce, cheese, dates, sugared dried fruit and sweets. And washed down with a rare vintage of game. Boy it is going to be a rough day! We start the day with a photo session. And then are off! Just outside is a suspension bridge. This has to be negotiated one at a time to avoid falling into the muddy stream. We leave at 08.20 and are at the beacon at the top of this hill at 10.00.
This is not a tough walk and the views and sculptured sandstone should be enjoyed. We were able to identify rock sculptures of pigs, Egyptian pharaohs, elephants, tortoises, and various other shapes as we walked this very colourful and interesting pathway. As we were going up the hill we saw the van that collects the baggage on its way to the hut. And were completely fooled as to where the overnight hut was to be. Jap laid down his stick and ran down to them. It turned out that he wanted them to buy him some more film. They of course were more than wiling. It was the kind of friendly service that we had come to appreciate on this hike. Jap has two cameras and I am looking forward to see the results of all his efforts. A good place to stop for tea is at the beacon at the top of the Hammerkop mountain where there is a rocky area which provides a good backrest which I, for one, need. At about 09.15 the sun makes an attempt to warm us up through the clouds but not for long as the clouds win the morning. We make our tea stop at 10.00 where we get cell phone reception. Bill and Trevor try to contact home but to no avail as their respective spouses are either busy on the phone or out spending their money on “unnecessary luxuries”. Today there is a short climb but thereafter this could be a long day if we did not have the cloud cover. A good portion of the walk is along the ridge of the mountain where there is no shade and could be tough on a hot day. Apart from the first day there is no water or streams to replenish water bottles so an additional supply of water is essential. Just after 11.00 we begin the descent along the Zorro path. We are now able to see our cove where we know the huts to be situated.
Immediately after crossing the forest road we stop for lunch. By now the sun is in full force and most of us suffer from a bit of sunburn around the neck and face. A Black Eagle was spotted at our lunch spot. Today a few small snakes slithered across our path. They were definitely no threat to the hikers. We begin the final stretch to the huts at 13.00. This is an interesting part of the hike and should not be rushed. It is the first time we come across the Port Jackson Willow. However the bird life, fynbos, geckos, dung beetles and Tok Tokkies make the walk fun. Look out for the waterfall in the kloof. Once we see the huts we have a further 45mins before we amble into them. The steep downhill to the beach again claimed Bill and he had an involuntary sit down. Boots are changed for sandals and I am able to persuade Gerald (who hates anything that is not at bath temperature) to go for a swim. Peter is already in the waves. “Most unusual for him” says Judy. But we have the most enjoyable swim both in the waves and the lagoon. Trevor and co find a swimming pool above the little waterfall near to the hut. At this location there are two huts, one is for sleeping and the other for the kitchen and bathrooms. And there is a gas cooker to add to the luxury of the hut. A negative is that the rain leaks into the sleeping area for those on the mezzanine or the top bunk under the windows. The braai area is overlooking the rocks and this is an ideal place to make your mark on the trail with some flotsam and jetsam. Ropes and other paraphernalia are added by the various hiking groups to the braai structure. I am able to find a suitable plank to add to the roof. We also found a worn plank and wrote the Voetsack name on it for following groups to see that we were a force to be reckoned with! This was to be the forerunner of our trademark.
Some of the more energetic went exploring further and others brought forward the happy hour or just settled into a bit of reading. At this hut there is a huge amount of laundry taking place. Even Gerald is seen to be hanging up his (now clean) socks. The washing lines and bushes are littered with freshly smelling (in our opinion anyway) clothes. While Bill had his CD player and Mozart to relax by. Jap did his fire thing and those who still had fresh meat made use of the fire while others used it for an excuse to mellow out until way past sunset. The jeep track leading to the hut reveals the necessity for the hardiest vehicle available. There is no cell phone reception here, so even of you run out of beers you are unable to call for rescue. This evening we experience the best sunset of the hike as we sit and watch the ocean, clouds and sun merge into a burst of colour and fire. Today Bill has taken a great deal of strain on the down hills and is clearly in pain. He announces that this is his last five day hike. Judy proves to be the bird expert and points out the Grey-back Cisticola, the Familiar Chat, Orange Breasted Sunbird and we have also seen Rock Kestrel today.
DAY FOUR-----NOETSIE TO HAMMERKOP HUT. 8km
Jap and I are up early as usual. After a quick wash and coffee Jap spots the first whale of the day but we (mistakenly ) decide that this is a large rock. Barbara confirms the whale sighting a short while later. Essential equipment for this hike is a good pair of Binoculars, a pocket bird book as well as a camera. So our first whale sighting was at 06.30am at Noetsie on 01 November 2003. Today is also a special day as the Springboks play Samoa for a place in the semi-finals and after the Samoans gave the British team a tough game we are sceptical of the Springboks ability to win this one. The rest of the morning at the hut is one of shouts of glee and “thar she blows” as we spot whales, tails and flippers. The Southern Right Whale does not have a dorsal fin. The whale is the length of 10 elephants when fully grown and 6 at birth. Binoculars are essential for a full appreciation of the enormous size of these creatures. The morning starts off with rain and so we are huddled in doorways trying to catch a glimpse of these magnificent animals which we are going to see so much of later on in the hike. The choppy seas make identification of the whales and their shapes that much more difficult.
By 09.00 the rain has stopped and we make our way back across the beach to the hill and we are soon hot from the walking and the sun. This section of the hike is for a lot of exploring and stopping. There is no rush to get to the hut and so whenever there is an interesting cove or cliff, time is taken to absorb the splendour. Also the cliff edges are dangerous so we walk slowly and take care. Today we see at various times a baboon scout near to our tea spot, Tok Tokkies (this is a scarab beetle that reacts to the tapping of a finger just behind it), Dung Beetles, rock Kestrel, gulls and crows, jelly fish and blue bottles, a chameleon (verkleurmannetjie), a few pairs of the endangered Oyster Catchers, Cape Robin, the Southern Boubou (with it’s delightful call), three Klipspringer that Barbara and Jap see whilst the rest of us see only the spoor. Gerald and I do some close up exploring of the cliff while Trevor shows his cliff climbing ability as he descends to a huge cave below. Today we make a tea stop just as the Springbok rugby team is beating the Samoans something like 60 to 10.
We reach Stilgat at 12.00 and descend the chain ladder leaving our packs at the top. Fortunately Trevor has his torch with him and we are able to explore the caves. Here we see what we think are bats, stalactites (top) and stalagmites (bottom) and strange looking caterpillars. The pools have the largest blue bottles that I have ever seen but Trevor braves these and the cold water for a swim. Jap is at the top and responds to a “dare”. He clambers down the ladder rushes across to the pool, persuades Trevor to get back into the water then promptly grabs poor Trevor’s clothes. So to our great delight and amoungst much laughter Trevor has to climb the ladder dressed only in a pair of bright yellow jocks. I find a well worn plank and a mess of rope. These I carry on to the Hammerkop hut so that we can add our mark to this hut. At Stilgat we begin our whale spotting. We also see what is known as tail lobbing. A whale quite a distance out to sea is slapping its tail repeatedly onto the water surface and then after a count of 5 we are able to hear the slapping sound. It seems that this may be a form of communication and used by whales to stun the fish. Many of the whales we see seem to be in pairs. We think that it is the mother and calf. After a short beach walk we reach Hammerkop hut. It is a beautiful hut overlooking the beach where swimming is not really possible. And as we have come to expect when we get there at about 16.00 our bags are waiting for us. A huge disappointment is that there is not hot water. We think that this is due to a lack of water pressure. Jap starts the fire and Bill takes an early dose of medicine. While sitting at the fireside we see three whales giving us a demonstration of tail and flipper slapping. These whales are very close to the shore, just off the breakers. Jap does the fire thing and he also brands the plank that I carried with the Voetsac Hiking club’s name. This is mounted at the entrance to the hut. Today was a long day. Not in distance but it was our first full day of sunshine and we did a lot of exploring so everyone is pretty clapped and shortly after sunset at 20.00 most of us are in bed.
DAY FOUR------HAMMERKOP TO VAALKRAANS HUT 8kays
This morning I walk up the jeep track for about a half hour to see if I can get cell phone reception. It is a tough walk but eventually I am able to SMS my family and the running group who are in Athens to run the Greek marathon. Bill is worried about the heat and the long beach trek that is ahead of us so we set off at 07.30 this morning. Some of us are barefoot, others in sandals or boots. I am not sure which was the best choice but I enjoyed the sand and water on my feet. We have barely started when Bill is caught by a wave and swept off his feet. And loses his stick (given to him by Round Table). Fortunately Judy finds it washed up a little further on. Today we see about 18 pairs of Oyster Catchers. We also see plenty of Terns, Gulls and Sandpipers.
This morning we hike beaches and pathways for about three hours and come to a sign with an apple. We presume that this is the location of the blowholes. I have a swim here but it is not really pleasant as there is only a shelf but helps to cool down on a hot day. This becomes a tea stop but most spectacular of all are the two blow holes that can be seen from the rocks above. The ocean rushes into these two small holes in the rock shelf creating the most entertaining water showers. Ruth is at her very best with cries of Yahooo, Oh Wow, who pee? And other exclamations of delight. After an hour we press on. I have retrieved myself another piece of rope and Trevor rescues a buoy and later on a soft children’s ball. We reach this our last hut at 13.00. This hut is situated on the edge if the cliff and it appears that we are on an overhang with very little between us and the ocean. Next to the hut is a hole. If you are prepared to stick your head into the hole you can see the sea below. Ruth discovers this phenomenon and (to the amusement of those parking out in the kitchen) calls all to marvel at this wonder of nature. Today we estimate that we have probably seen between 20 to 30 whales since Noetsie. This evening is filled with chatter and laughter. The last of the alcohol is consumed with the evening snacks which include Pringles, p-nut and raisins, smoked oysters, mature cheddar on biscuits and avocado on rye. Who says that porterage of the bags is not the way to go? This hut also has an upstairs but Peter is unable to fit through the narrow stairway so they usurp the bunks of Jap and Christine who move mattresses to the kitchen. The buoy that Trevor has carried is roped to a beam in the kitchen roof and the soft ball is adorned with our names and Jap makes a sling and this too is mounted above the kitchen counter. The wind is howling outside so there is not too much objection to those wanting to remain indoors for the afternoon after a welcome hot shower with a bit of reading and general chit chat. A problem with this hut is the flies. They are everywhere and the hut needs mesh on the windows and doors as well as fly strips or liberal quantities of Doom. Fortunately they are not evening creatures and we have a peaceful evening.
DAY FIVE------VAALRAKNS TO KOPPIE ALLEEN. 7kays
It is our last day. By now it seems that the whole team is used to an early start so by 07.00 we are ready to go. The hike today is mainly along pathways. There is a beach walk but is seems that there is not much enthusiasm for anymore soft sand walking. It is only a 3 hour walk even including some stops but we must be at the finish by 12.00 to catch the bus back to Potberg camp. The early morning excitement is a baboon spider lurking at the entrance to the hut. It is eventually left alone to carry on with its life. Shortly after we start we see Klipspringer spoor on the trail. Barbara leads the group and is able to spot the pair as they check us out from about 100meters away. Today we also see whale breaching. This is the whale jumping out of the water completely. We have also seen some “spy hopping” where the whale sticks his head out of the water to “check the scene out”.
The highlight of today’s hike is finding some whale bones on a beach below. We loosen a whole lot of them, carry them up to the trail and make ourselves a whale spinal cord adorned with rib bones. If left alone by other hikers this will make a very good photo spot. We get to Koppie Alleen by 10.00. We seem to have missed a turn somewhere and end up at the training facility so walk down to the information centre where other tourists have gathered to do some whale watching. We have ourselves a bit of lunch and while waiting for the bus we see about 12 whales passing by. The bus is a school bus from the local Ouplaas primary school which has only 25 pupils. The bus is driven by Adele Du Toit who is a “mom”, a farmer and runs a B & B. The 35km drive back to Potberg takes an hour. Adele provides a cooler box with ice cold beverages. At the gate to De Hoop Barbara and Pat purchase a badge. At Potberg we meet Nomfundo who is very responsive to written report back that I have prepared.
POTBERG TO PE ---550km
On the advice of the mechanic back in PE we check the engine to see if we can see oil which we can and so decide that despite the flashing oil light we will press on back home. Trevor is less fortunate and has a flat tyre. We decide to drive back in convoy and this reassures both of us. Before leaving Potberg we drive back to the parking area to see if there was any oil leakage where the combi was parked. There was none but what we did find was Gerald’s backpack lying next to the hut. We bid Peter and Judy goodbye as they are carrying on for a week’s holiday and tour of the wine-lands of the Western Cape. We decide to take the pontoon route through Malgas again. Here we receive an SMS that all the runners have finished the Greek marathon. Tracey says it is the toughest in her life. At Heidelberg we stop at the same little shop where we purchased the most delicious biltong and Gerald buys a memento. The drive back to PE is great in that it is uneventful. We are all home by 21.30.
Peter Giddy
5 November 2003
Monday, November 3, 2003
PROFOUND THOUGHTS
Did you ever stop and wonder......
Who was the first person to look at a cow and say, "I think I'll
squeeze these pink dangly things here, and drink whatever comes
out?"
Who was the first person to say, "See that chicken there... I'm
gonna eat the next thing that comes outta it's bum."
Why do toasters always have a setting so high that could burn the
toast to a horrible crisp, which no decent human being would eat?
Why is there a light in the fridge and not in the freezer?
Why do people point to their wrist when asking for the time, but
don't point to their bum when they ask where the bathroom is?
Why does your Obstetrician, Gynaecologist leave the room when you
get undressed if they are going to look up there anyway?
Why does Goofy stand erect while Pluto remains on all fours? They're
both dogs!
What do you call male ballerinas?
Can blind people see their dreams? Do they dream??
If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests? (This one kills me!!!!)
If corn oil is made from corn, and vegetable oil is made from
vegetables, then what is baby oil made from?
If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?
Why do the Alphabet song and Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star have the
same tune?
Stop singing and read on . . . . . .. . . . .
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?
Did you ever notice that when you blow in a dog's face, he gets mad
at you, but when you take him on a car ride, he sticks his head out
the window?
Does pushing the elevator button more than once make it arrive
faster?
Do you ever wonder why you gave me your e-mail address in the first
place?
Who was the first person to look at a cow and say, "I think I'll
squeeze these pink dangly things here, and drink whatever comes
out?"
Who was the first person to say, "See that chicken there... I'm
gonna eat the next thing that comes outta it's bum."
Why do toasters always have a setting so high that could burn the
toast to a horrible crisp, which no decent human being would eat?
Why is there a light in the fridge and not in the freezer?
Why do people point to their wrist when asking for the time, but
don't point to their bum when they ask where the bathroom is?
Why does your Obstetrician, Gynaecologist leave the room when you
get undressed if they are going to look up there anyway?
Why does Goofy stand erect while Pluto remains on all fours? They're
both dogs!
What do you call male ballerinas?
Can blind people see their dreams? Do they dream??
If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests? (This one kills me!!!!)
If corn oil is made from corn, and vegetable oil is made from
vegetables, then what is baby oil made from?
If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?
Why do the Alphabet song and Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star have the
same tune?
Stop singing and read on . . . . . .. . . . .
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?
Did you ever notice that when you blow in a dog's face, he gets mad
at you, but when you take him on a car ride, he sticks his head out
the window?
Does pushing the elevator button more than once make it arrive
faster?
Do you ever wonder why you gave me your e-mail address in the first
place?
Wednesday, September 3, 2003
MISSION TO MIDDLEBURG SEPTEMBER 2003
Report back on the “Mission to Middleburg” 28 September 2003
During August this year a cell group in the church heard the call for assistance from an AIDS care haven (for children) in Middleburg. Some of the members of the group were able to assist and a general appeal was made to the members of the Walmer Methodist Church as well as to others in the Port Elizabeth community.
Time was limited as the person in charge of the home (Dianne Lang) planned a party for the children on the 13th September. However within a week the abundant generosity of the members of this church (and others) was heaped onto the cell group and they were able to transport a huge quantity of clothing, bedding, toys, kitchenware, cots and foodstuffs to the home in Middleburg. In addition to this a generous sum of money was donated.
Thank you for your support. Dianne, her assistants and the children will benefit from your response to Gods calling. Dianne is doing a wonderful job of work and should you wish to contribute to her efforts in any way her telephone numbers are:
082 659 3087
049 842 4414
During August this year a cell group in the church heard the call for assistance from an AIDS care haven (for children) in Middleburg. Some of the members of the group were able to assist and a general appeal was made to the members of the Walmer Methodist Church as well as to others in the Port Elizabeth community.
Time was limited as the person in charge of the home (Dianne Lang) planned a party for the children on the 13th September. However within a week the abundant generosity of the members of this church (and others) was heaped onto the cell group and they were able to transport a huge quantity of clothing, bedding, toys, kitchenware, cots and foodstuffs to the home in Middleburg. In addition to this a generous sum of money was donated.
Thank you for your support. Dianne, her assistants and the children will benefit from your response to Gods calling. Dianne is doing a wonderful job of work and should you wish to contribute to her efforts in any way her telephone numbers are:
082 659 3087
049 842 4414
Sunday, August 3, 2003
RUSSIAN TRIP BY BAUBIE AND GRAHAM RICHARDS AUGUST 2003
Here is an account of their August 2003 trip to Russia by Baubie & Graham Richards
Dear All,
Well it was as wonderful as I had hoped and many of my preconceived ideas were shot down in flames very quickly.
We arrived exhausted and both as ill as anything but were determined not to waste a minute and didn't in spite of feeling so grim. As the week progressed we felt better but both of us coughed and blew our noses into oblivion the whole trip.....
The weather was kind to us. It was as hot as hell though and very humid too. Average temp whilst we were there was between 28 and 30 degrees and it is sweltering.
No provision is made for aircon in 95% of the places we went to bar the Armoury in Moscow and our home in St.Petes. You walk into a shop and it's like stepping into your 240 degree oven. There were two massive thunderstorms during the first two days we were there. Both caused us no inconvenience, as we were indoors. They only have 3 months of summer and 9 months of winter. Winter temps average 30 degrees below zero, inconceivable in the heat we experienced.........It was light most of the time we were there. Only gets dark at about 2am and the sun is back up by 5am.....so we woke up in sunlight and went to sleep in sunlight...makes for very little sleep, as you never seem to tire when the sun is blazing outside all day and all night.
We stayed up one night to see the bridges over the Neva river open to let the massive ships through and that was the only time it got dark, and it wasn't really dark as we know it......
St. Petersburg is beautiful. Very flat and the river runs through the city, which is littered with canals.
Our apartment was situated on the banks of a canal and our hosts, Rob and Michelle Elfick live on the top floor of their five storied building. It's big and spacious with three bedrooms -the main bedroom with a walk-in dressing room, spa bath, sauna and double vanity slab and shower. The kitchen cum dining room is vast, with enough room for a study and suite for a family room. We had our own bathroom with shower, loo and vanity setup. It is air-conditioned and costs the company $6000 per month!!!!!!
You can't drink the tap water but they have a water machine in the kitchen area, so iced water is on tap all the time. Phone calls within the city are free, you only pay if you phone outside the city limits......There are wide boulevards between some of the buildings and they can be filled with outdoor restaurants by the dozen or be completely empty of any activity.
Everywhere one turns there is a statue to a poet, Tsar or some admired Russian...no-one who has done anything worthy does not get a statue put up to acknowledge his contribution. Even statues of Lenin remain but I never saw one of Stalin or the other Soviet leaders but then maybe didn't go to those places.
The gardens too are very pretty, brimful of flowers and vast. The lawns in between them appear to be mostly mown weed. In the parks there are huge trees which provide welcome shade in the heat and loooooong benches to collapse onto, as well as fountains of every shape, size and variety you can think of...no shortage of fountains. And again everything is spotlessly clean....which I must say amazed me, mostly I think because there are hundreds of people everywhere.....the Russians go and see all of the sights en masse.
As far as shopping goes there is almost nothing you cannot get. We went to several supermarkets and they are packed full of goods with names that one recognizes like Lipton iced tea, Rama marge, Persil washing powder etc Of course lots of Russian labels on products but all with pics, so not difficult to find what you're looking for. The supermarkets we went into reminded me of our supermarkets back in the 70's. Small isles and wire trolleys, small old fashioned fridge's but all stocked to the gills. I forgot to look at prices but Michele felt that you got better value in SA for the equivalent in Rands. As to clothing etc all of the top name brands are there and that goes for furniture, white goods, crockery etc, The choice is vast.......
The economy is buoyant, the skyline a mass of cranes and the streets are teeming with people. There are tourist markets to buy souvenirs and Graham went off exploring on his own one day and discovered a huge Russian market, selling everything including the kitchen sink but Michele said she didn't feel safe there and avoided it...probably full of pickpocket gypsies.
Onto the Russians.........what a bunch of miserable, militantly grumpy, obnoxious folk. They are unfriendly, in fact I have to assume that the words smile, friend, civility, thoughtfulness and manners are missing from both their vocabulary and dictionaries.
For example, I was walking along the pavement with G and M and moved to one side as some Russians came towards us but got mowed into by this woman, who hit me in the leg so hard with her bag, as she storm-trooped by, that I had a huge swelling and bruise on my thigh for the rest of the trip. What's more I fell off the pavement and she didn't turn a hair. Charming dame !!!!!!!!!
They will walk in front of you as you're taking a photo and in spite of learning the Russian for thank-you and smiling at them, they glare back at you as if to say....well push off now, what do you expect from me.... Unbelievable. Another example was when I was looking at a fountain, a Russian male decided to have his photo taken next to me. Until I got a shove and verbal barrage from him, I was unaware of him but I was obviously cramping his style and was bombed on in no uncertain terms. Rude oaf. On the odd occasion one met a friendly soul but they were the exception rather than the rule.
The two tours we went on in Moscow, run by a private enterprise had super people running the show and the guides were nice too. The two drivers that are assigned to Rob and who chauffeured us around, when asked to, were also very nice chaps and spoke moderately passable English. But as a rule they are revolting people and very hard to warm to. On the other hand they are scrupulously honest. I forgot my vanity case at the airport and my heart sank but it was held there in safe keeping for me and after filling in a multitude of forms to satisfy the most enthusiastic of bureaucrats, it was mine again!!!!!
I also left my glasses case at a stall one day, and rushed back to find it and there it was waiting for me. Also on the overnight train to Moscow, there is a little vase of silk flowers placed on the table in the compartment and when we got off the train there they all were, window after window.....they wouldn't last a sec in this country.....
The people I expected to see were big, strong Russian Amazonian type woman and huge men. Instead
the women I saw swarming all over the streets were petit, slender and in a lot of cases very pretty. They seem like clones of one another, they all have very similar figures....it strikes one very strongly. The men too are small in the main and slim. Of course there are big men but ones impression is that there are hoards of the little ugly okes all over the place. I didn't see one good looking man in either Moscow or St Petes, not one......maybe that's why the women are so grumpy and long-lipped.......The only big strong women I saw were those doing the manual labour and one has to ask why none of them were around the streets, but they weren't. They all dress in skin tight pants and skimpy tops, or little mini skirts and skimpy tops. That's obviously a broad generalization but that's the over-riding impression I got.
Another remarkable phenomenon I noticed, and I have to confess it made me feel my age, was all the young women setting forth to these massive palaces and their equally massive gardens in the new pointed toe high heeled shoes, (those with points so long, they ought to be classified as lethal weapons) and traipsing around.....totter...totter...totter....for miles on end, in the sweltering heat.....positively hurt my feet, just looking at them and yet there were masses of them. I guess what women will do in the name of high fashion will never change but I was very comfy in my Nikes and got home at night blisterless and with my back in tact!!!!!
You know you're getting old when...........
Driving around is another experience altogether. None of the ex-pats drive themselves, as the traffic police adorn the streets in their multitudes and pull you over. You get a spot fine and pay then and there. The multi-national companies won't let their staff drive, as soon as the traffic cop knows you're not Russian the fine quadruples and it is levied in dollars, not roubles.
The moves our driver pulled in the streets were mind-blowing and the little gaps he squeezed the car through left me whistling in admiration. They drive fast and defensively and it's an experience I will not easily forget....weaving in and out of traffic, avoiding pedestrians by a hairs breadth and squeezing into gaps that weren't there. Also the swinging around, over several lanes to get to where you want to be seemed to have no apparent rules as we know them. It's pandemonium but it works somehow.
We saw several prangs though, one guy just sailing through the red robot straight into a vehicle crossing the road.........scary stuff. Every imaginable car is on the roads in Russia, from the bombed out Ladas to state of the art Mercs, BMWs, Audis, stretch limos......you name it, it's there. Public transport includes mini-bus taxis, metro and trams and all seem to be well patronized.
We ate a little of the local food. Had a blini at a stall in a street boulevard but neither of us were mad about them, in spite of Michele saying they were very moreish. They are similar to a large flat pancake and are filled with a myriad of fillings of your choice.. I had cheese and ham and G had mushrooms, as an example. We also had a salad one day in a Russian restaurant. It is presented to you in a glass goblet and the base is a mixture of bits of potato, peas and corn. This is topped with Chinese cabbage (neither lettuce nor cabbage) and your choice of salad..once again I had ham and cheese and then it is all drowned in mayonnaise...they are wild about mayo and ice-cream. There are ice-cream and cooldrink vendors everywhere....One day G elected to eat a pie from one of the park vendors and his choice was potato or cabbage or meat of some kind. He had the potato and said it was good but the pastry wasn't flaky pastry as we know it but a sort of donut type dough but not sweet...he suspected it was a deep fried pie.
They seem to eat very fatty foods but according to Michelle need all that fat to survive the winters. We ate out a very posh place but the chef there was French, so I'm not sure that the style of food was Russian at all....it was divine. We all started with' vegetables' which was in fact a salad as we know it...lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, peppers etc and then G and I had the most delectable piece of salmon which topped little flat ravioli type pockets filled with the most delish spinach and another with a delicate mustard sauce.....As we were taking Rob and Michele out and she wanted pud, I had some too although I was as full as a tick and I had a trio of three different flavoured creme brulee and she had an Earl Grey ice cream on a little tartlet...also scrumptious.
This was a floating restaurant on the Neva and was full of the so-called 'new Russians", all filthy rich and dressed up to the nines. The ultimate status symbol (for a woman) appears to be to have a miniature dog under your arm and they accompany you everywhere, restaurants too!!!!!!!!! Cellphones, the SA status symbol for the masses are ubiquitous there. On our return train trip from Moscow we were each handed a packaged meal consisting of cheese, marge, bread roll (fresh), biscuits, yoghurt, chocolate bar, pate, a bottled water, nuts (pistachio).......so you don't go hungry on the speed train..
There is also a hostess of sorts who trolls up and down with a drinks cart and you can buy all sorts of alcohol from her. The Russians like to drink. It is more common than not to see a fellow off to work in the morning with his briefcase in one hand and an open bottle of beer in the other.........but then they are strange people......I went to a bakery with Michele and the cakes are varied and look delish. A beautifully decorated cake starts at about R100 but is decorated so that each slice cut will look like a work of at on its own.
There was every conceivable type of bread, croissants, rolls, biscuits, tarts, tartlets, donuts, buns,ready made sandwiches etc. It is an upmarket shop and is apparently owned by an English woman.
The things we found to be really cheap were CDs...less than R20 each but apparently they are all black market and yet sold in modern CD stores. Camera equipment...cheaper than Hong Kong according to Rob (one of his drivers told us that that was because they had been smuggled in without customs and government taxes being paid), but again all sold in huge camera shops, computer programs also cheap and the same criteria....copies.
We bought and had developed endless spools of film, as that too was really cheap. The whole industry is Mafia run apparently and bribes are the order of the day. The so called New Russians apparently derive their wealth from what is referred to as "unclear circumstances" and have hoards of servants, flashy cars and clothes and live in vast homes...apartments with individual swimming pools etc.,
The wealthy drug barons put up these huge homes in the country too.....we saw several dozen of them and it is obvious that money is not in short supply.
The wealth of art, sculptures, tapestries, gold, silver, porcelain, crystal, marble, exotic woods , jasper....oh the list is endless that adorn the palaces of both the wealthy and the Royals is mind blowing.
What is on display is apparently a small sample of the stuff in storage. It is magnificent and as you travel from one room to the next in these vast palaces, you just cannot believe the scale and grandeur of it all. It is so breathtakingly beautiful...the art on the walls, the ceiling and even the floors is spectacular. It is impossible to believe you will see anything more magnificent than the room you are standing in and you move on to the next room and gasp!!!!! It is endless and afterwards, when you study the diagrams of the building you have visited, you realize you saw one paltry little corner of the palace in terms of its total size.............just amazing.
I knew that the Russians were the envy of every Royal house in Europe but had little idea of the immense scale of it all. I have only been to Versailles and Buckingham and Windsor castles, I hasten to add, but this lot make them look ordinary and I thought at the time that they were splendid indeed. You would need a couple of months to look over one palace and try to take it all in. As I said, palaces are a dime a dozen in St Petes and Moscow and so it is difficult to imagine the extent of it all. What also is amazing, is that the communists kept it all squirreled away somewhere..........
I also visited a museum devoted to communism and that too was interesting but mostly documents and pictures and clothing and the like. Very drab and monotonous but all there to see. It was set up in the palace that the last Tsar gave to his ballerina mistress in St. Petes and I have to confess that's why I went, not realizing what I was actually going to see. Glad I did in the end though, saw a totally different side to the museums.
What is very irritating in both the museums and palaces, is the lack of translated signage on the exhibits. Most of it is in Russian and so you are left wondering what you were actually looking at or who you are looking at. Because of the Cyrillic alphabet, it is even more difficult to even attempt to figure anything out for yourself.
The city is very clean, kept so by women, who also seem to man the parks and do heavy digging and raking of flower beds in the parks and street verges. The men seem to do all of the construction type work...refurbishing pavements etc., It has a population of 5 million and there is little evidence of poverty on the streets with a few old timers begging outside churches. There are a lot of street kids around, apparently it is a big problem and arises from alcohol abuse at home. The trouble makers are the gypsies, although we were lucky enough to escape them....saw a few but they were not really in evidence.
The week before we got there though Rob and Michelle's folks had been victimized by them trying to steal wallets out of pockets and cameras...and it was frightening for them, as they surround you in gangs and then victimize you.
The river is not clean, nor are the canals. The edges are positively gross looking with scum and gunge, yet the Russians happily swim in it..............ugh!!!!!!
As you stroll or drive from one place to another you will inevitably come across a bridal party, consisting of the bride and groom and each of them appear to have an aide, who has a sash across their chest. The wedding party trek off to a favoured monument and lay a buch of flowers at the site. They travel in a car that has an arrangement on its roof and another on the bonnet. This scene is familiar every day of the week and we were told two different reasons for weddings taking place on any day of the week. One was that it is expensive to get married over a weekend and the other was that in order to arrange your marriage you go to a bureau who help with everything and they obtain aa date for you from the registry office, which has so many marriages to cope with due to the size of the population that they dish out a date and that's your wedding day, full stop.
There is a big bash after visiting the monument of your choice, we were aware of one at the floating restaurant we were at and another zoomed passed us on a hydrofoil boat on the Neva. We also went on the hydrofoil, when we went out to the Peterhof palace for the day with Rob and Michele and that was a first for me. It was fun once we had managed to get onto the boat without being crushed to death by pushing and shoving Russians, who are at every venue you visit in their thousands. All militantly grumpy, rude and unpleasant.
The buildings in their entirety are magnificent. The architecture superb and it goes on and on and on, one beautiful structure after another. The city is littered with magnificent churches too, all with gold cupolas soaring into the sky and often with brilliant mosaics, frescos and carvings adorning them. Inside they are breathtaking....filled with icons and statues and art and chandeliers that are gigantic and exquisite....just so superb one quickly runs out of adjectives to describe them.
There is an enormous amount of construction of new places going on as well as reconstruction of existing buildings. The city is overflowing with palaces too....apart from the royal palaces, wealthy nobles and merchants also had homes that were so magnificent they beggared belief. Whilst all of this is so beautiful, the Russians have a lot to learn about tourism. On a whim they will close down a palace or a museum and that's that. We devoted one day to go up to Tsarkoe Selo to see the Catherine palace. We carefully checked the guide books to make sure that it was open, as it entailed Rob laying on his driver for us and it is about 15kms outside the city, only to get there and discover that it was closed for a medical day...whatever that may mean. So you may have travelled half way around the world to get there and it's closed, no explanation, no apology...just your tough luck.
On our last day there we again tried to go there only to discover that after waiting for 3/4 hour in the baking sun at a ticket office queue, being pushed about by the locals, that Russians would be admitted from 12-2 and non-Russians from 2-4. So we had to leave as we had to get to the airport by 1. That too was the rule for that day...it appears in no guide book and it's just tough if you are inconvenienced by it, they don't give a damn.
We had the same experience in Moscow...Red Square had been closed off for 2 weeks, due to a terrorist threat (?)........when you see the scale of the place, that's just nonsense. In both instances, without the aid of someone who could speak Russian, there was nothing to inform us as to why we were not allowed into these places. The officials on duty just glare at you and snap 'closed' and that is that. I mean it's like shutting Cape Town down for a weekend and to hell with the tourists....can't conceive of it happening anywhere else in the world.
So if one is going to Russia on holiday, it is wise not to set ones heart on seeing anything specific, as you might get there to find its closed and that's the end of your desire. I must say it was very disappointing as the Catherine Palace houses the newly refurbished Amber Room, reputed now to be one of the major attractions in the world, and judging by photographs of it, it is spectacular...........oh well, bloody Russians.
After the disappointment of our day at the Catherine Palace we had a wonderful evening. We went off to the Imperial Theatre to see a Russian ballet troupe perform Swan Lake, accompanied by the State Orchestra and it was fabulous. The Kirov Ballet Company was performing in London and the London Ballet Company was performing at the Marinsky. We wanted to see Russian ballet and so elected to go and see Swan Lake at the Imperial. Just wonderful............and the theatre, believe it or not is staffed by friendly people, who smile and are very helpful.
I would highly recommend St Petes as a tourist destination though, it was quite wonderful and we were exceptionally lucky to have Rob and Michelle to visit and show us around. I would hesitate to go there alone, one would need to go on a tour to see what we crammed into 8 days and the way was smoothed by Michelle, who did an enormous amount of organizing for us. Also she can communicate in the local lingo and without that you are doomed to a very frustrating time if you have a busy schedule.
Brave, would be an understatement in trying to go it alone, as one can do in the rest of Europe fairly easily.
We had a long trip home and the last comment I have is that the new Joburg International is fantastic. Warm , friendly and efficient staff make it the most super experience......superior to Charles de Gaulle and unquestionably a million times better than Pulkovo, which doesn't know what service means.
We were bowled over by the level of assistance and the smiling, friendly staff we came across.......a far cry from the good old apartheid days, where we compared favourably with the Russians. Even an unsmiling South African face is a friendly face after Russia and when we smile, we light up the world!!!!!!!!!
Much love to you all,
Baubie / Eileen
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
MILL PARK RUNNING GROUP SINCE 1986
This is an account of the history of the Mill Park Running Group as seen by Graham Botha at an annual Dinner held at the PE Club in Bird Street Port ELizabeth in about 2003
Mill Park Road Runners
History
The group was started on the 18/11/1986 by Andy Bolton and Adrienne Wilson. They were joined initially by Dassie Biggs, Herbie van der Merwe and Jumbo Williams. In time familiar names like Wally Hyam, Tim Lane Margie Saunders and Greg Ward-Able joined the group.
Routes were soon put in place, and the following programme was followed;
Monday – Town and Golf Course
Tuesday – Hill work in Target Kloof followed by a cool down around St Georges Park
Wednesday - Lovemore Heights
Thursday – William Moffit
Friday – St Georges Park and Linkside
Saturday – 24 km run normally to the beachfront
The group soon had success at the Two Oceans Marathon when Adrienne and Margie both achieved an 18th place in a few years. In the late 1980’s, Peter Giddy and Ron Pask joined the group, and the Paddy/Clem group joined in for the Saturday run. Adrienne started her run of pregnancies in 1991.
Kobus Gerber joined in 1991 (after Adrienne had fallen pregnant) and the group consisted of a nucleus of about 10 members for the next few years. From 1995 to 1998, a group of runners from East London infiltrated the ranks, and the group soon had up to 30 runners. It was soon evident that the pace did not suite everyone, and as a result a new group was formed at 6th Avenue Walmer. They were soon named the Amakrokakroka.
The year 2000 saw a huge swell in numbers, as old runners returned, and novices marked the turn of the century by doing memorable events, like the Comrades. We had 68 guests at our annual dinner in that particular year. Interest in road running has dropped off in the past few years, but the stalwarts at MPRR have ensured that the group has remained strong and vibrant.
Statistics
Members of the MPRR have completed the Two Oceans marathon 260 times
Members of the MPRR have completed the Comrades marathon 174 times.
Using the above stats, keeping in mind that some runners still run but no longer enter events, the following calculations have been made. (Factor = 285 years of running)
The group has run together 5219 times
The group represents in excess of 1700 completed marathons and ultras.
285 years x 52 weeks x 70 km = 1,037,400 km
In rugby terms, we have run around a rugby field 2,593,500 times.
The Earths circumference = 6347 km – we have run around the world 164 times.
We have run to the moon and back, and are 30% of the way on the way up again.
At 5.5 min per km, we have run for 95095 hours.
Andy and Gerald have just clocked 85000 km each.
We have used in the region of 1150 pairs of running shoes (at today’s prices = R 920 000)
The road so far
In 1986 a young lady and a chap
Started to run from a new place on the map
As runners will know they trained in the dark
But they could not be safer, they were in Mill Park
Although they were fast, good, looking and smart
They only could muster two runners to start
The word soon got out about the lady and the lout
And others then joined them to get out and about
Routes were chosen and set in place
And occasionally they attracted a fresh new face
Up hills and mountains they did run
But no one could imagine what this group would become
The years rolled by for these chaps and ladies
Some got lazy and some had babies
Many joined the Mill Parkers to run
And most of them stayed because it was fun
The turn of the century was soon upon them
And many old hands returned to run again
The group got so large that the roads were too small
And often we saw the clumsy ones fall
We were asked to run from our corner no more
By a famous young lady known as Amore
She considered our cars to be no good fun
Even though she once had a Beemer stuck under her bum
The group has survived through this all
Because we welcome all people, big or small
No dogs are allowed, as we very well know
Our Chairman politely just tells them to go
We have teachers and preachers brokers and tutors
There are salesmen and doctors and chap selling computers
Also professors and students and a man in the arts
A gardener, some bankers and a man who heals hearts
Our travels have taken us far and wide
We’ve seen cities galore and oceans from both sides
We’ve run in snow bundled in fleece
And few lucky ones even ran in Greece
Things in our country have changed a lot
But things at Mill Park certainly have not
Whilst others have seen there fortunes reverse
Our chairman finds change completely perverse
As friends we have grown for many a year
We shared joy and success and even a tear
A better group of friends we don’t think there are
We are truly blessed to have M P R R
Mill Park Road Runners
History
The group was started on the 18/11/1986 by Andy Bolton and Adrienne Wilson. They were joined initially by Dassie Biggs, Herbie van der Merwe and Jumbo Williams. In time familiar names like Wally Hyam, Tim Lane Margie Saunders and Greg Ward-Able joined the group.
Routes were soon put in place, and the following programme was followed;
Monday – Town and Golf Course
Tuesday – Hill work in Target Kloof followed by a cool down around St Georges Park
Wednesday - Lovemore Heights
Thursday – William Moffit
Friday – St Georges Park and Linkside
Saturday – 24 km run normally to the beachfront
The group soon had success at the Two Oceans Marathon when Adrienne and Margie both achieved an 18th place in a few years. In the late 1980’s, Peter Giddy and Ron Pask joined the group, and the Paddy/Clem group joined in for the Saturday run. Adrienne started her run of pregnancies in 1991.
Kobus Gerber joined in 1991 (after Adrienne had fallen pregnant) and the group consisted of a nucleus of about 10 members for the next few years. From 1995 to 1998, a group of runners from East London infiltrated the ranks, and the group soon had up to 30 runners. It was soon evident that the pace did not suite everyone, and as a result a new group was formed at 6th Avenue Walmer. They were soon named the Amakrokakroka.
The year 2000 saw a huge swell in numbers, as old runners returned, and novices marked the turn of the century by doing memorable events, like the Comrades. We had 68 guests at our annual dinner in that particular year. Interest in road running has dropped off in the past few years, but the stalwarts at MPRR have ensured that the group has remained strong and vibrant.
Statistics
Members of the MPRR have completed the Two Oceans marathon 260 times
Members of the MPRR have completed the Comrades marathon 174 times.
Using the above stats, keeping in mind that some runners still run but no longer enter events, the following calculations have been made. (Factor = 285 years of running)
The group has run together 5219 times
The group represents in excess of 1700 completed marathons and ultras.
285 years x 52 weeks x 70 km = 1,037,400 km
In rugby terms, we have run around a rugby field 2,593,500 times.
The Earths circumference = 6347 km – we have run around the world 164 times.
We have run to the moon and back, and are 30% of the way on the way up again.
At 5.5 min per km, we have run for 95095 hours.
Andy and Gerald have just clocked 85000 km each.
We have used in the region of 1150 pairs of running shoes (at today’s prices = R 920 000)
The road so far
In 1986 a young lady and a chap
Started to run from a new place on the map
As runners will know they trained in the dark
But they could not be safer, they were in Mill Park
Although they were fast, good, looking and smart
They only could muster two runners to start
The word soon got out about the lady and the lout
And others then joined them to get out and about
Routes were chosen and set in place
And occasionally they attracted a fresh new face
Up hills and mountains they did run
But no one could imagine what this group would become
The years rolled by for these chaps and ladies
Some got lazy and some had babies
Many joined the Mill Parkers to run
And most of them stayed because it was fun
The turn of the century was soon upon them
And many old hands returned to run again
The group got so large that the roads were too small
And often we saw the clumsy ones fall
We were asked to run from our corner no more
By a famous young lady known as Amore
She considered our cars to be no good fun
Even though she once had a Beemer stuck under her bum
The group has survived through this all
Because we welcome all people, big or small
No dogs are allowed, as we very well know
Our Chairman politely just tells them to go
We have teachers and preachers brokers and tutors
There are salesmen and doctors and chap selling computers
Also professors and students and a man in the arts
A gardener, some bankers and a man who heals hearts
Our travels have taken us far and wide
We’ve seen cities galore and oceans from both sides
We’ve run in snow bundled in fleece
And few lucky ones even ran in Greece
Things in our country have changed a lot
But things at Mill Park certainly have not
Whilst others have seen there fortunes reverse
Our chairman finds change completely perverse
As friends we have grown for many a year
We shared joy and success and even a tear
A better group of friends we don’t think there are
We are truly blessed to have M P R R
Saturday, August 2, 2003
IMPRESSIONS FORMED ON A BRIEF TRIP TO RUSSIA BY GRAHAM RICHARDS AUGUST 2003
IMPRESSIONS FORMED ON A BRIEF VISIT TO RUSSIA
Preconceptions
My wife Baubie and I had the privilege of spending the last 10 days of July with Port Elizabethans, Rob and Michele Elfick in St. Petersburg where they have been living for 18 months.
Inevitably one approaches a visit of this nature with some preconceptions, in my case arising from memories of a visit to Moscow in 1992, the impressions of Rob and Michelle circulated to their friends by e-mail, recent extensive media coverage of matters Russian (e.g. Chechnya, Putin’s administration, the 300th anniversary of St. Petersburg and the G8 visit) and not least the vestiges of cold war and apartheid era propaganda instilled in baby-boomers like me. These preconceptions include visions of a crumbling infrastructure, a confused and overly bureaucratic administration, corruption, “Mafia” dominance, a struggling economy and 3rd world environmental and other standards. Like much about Russia, such preconceptions are both true and untrue. Russia and its people are full of contradictions, making the visit for me, brief as it was, a fascinating experience.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
We arrived at St Petersburg’s Pulkova Airport in the early afternoon on a day which weather wise, set the pattern for our entire stay – hot (+/- 30 degrees C) and muggy. The majority of arrivals debark within a couple of hours of each other each day, and passengers issue almost directly off the plane into a dingy, unrelentingly plain and unbearably hot hall, too small for the numbers, and immediately queue at about 10 passport control windows. Although Russians are supposed to go through the ‘citizens’ control point, for some reason many of them prefer to use the others, often waiting much longer and adding to the discomfort of the rest of us. The passport control officers are the Russians of my preconceptions – forbidding, unsmiling women who snatch at passports and documents and spend an interminable time poring over them to no apparent end –family groups are not permitted to present themselves together – those who attempt to do so are waved imperiously back.
We nevertheless got through in what apparently is a record time – about an hour. Rob tells of a recent return from Finland when after standing in the queue for in excess of an hour, the booth he was heading for closed without explanation, leaving him and others to rejoin another queue – at the back!
The luggage hall was strangely cool – it may even have been air-conditioned. The carousel (only one) was inadequate, and officials randomly hauled bags off to make more space, leaving one to search through piles of bags on the floor to find one’s luggage.
The grogginess caused by heat, flu and a long sleepless flight caused us to leave a small bag. The next day however we found it to have been collected, efficiently sealed and locked up and available for collection after completion of two lengthy forms and a written customs declaration declaring that we had nothing to declare!
We were finally met by the happy smiling faces of Rob and Michelle, complete with traditional bouquet for Baubie. I later realized why they stood out so much from the crowd – they were the smiling ones.
The airport gave us our first experience of the emphatic unhelpfulness of Russians (i.e. those that you don’t know) Nobody (officials, shop assistants – even ticket sellers and others at major tourist attractions) is prepared to make an effort to help or to understand. Often you will be berated aggressively in Russian (presumably for not speaking Russian or daring to ask if they speak English) Accordingly, (or perhaps I should say especially) by South African standards the service levels are extremely poor. The level of bureaucracy (of the unnecessary red-tape sort) remains high.
For example, visitors to Russia may not stay with friends (Russian or otherwise) It is necessary to check into an accommodation establishment which retains your passports and registers you with the authorities. The recognized (almost overtly so) practice however is to pay for a night’s accommodation at such an establishment, in our case a back packer’s hostel, leave one’s passports (against all international traveller’s advice) and come back in a day or so to receive the necessary certificate. In our case, it turned out we had not been given the correct form at the airport, making it necessary to write to the relevant office requesting one, then return to complete it, once again leave it and passports with the hostel and hope for the best. It turns out that we had got caught in the coils of a common dilemma. A law or procedure had changed at a high level but no forms or advice had filtered down. It is quite possible that we no longer required the form to get out of Russia but as the penalty at the exit point (usually under pressure of an imminently departing flight) is a fine of varying hundreds of US dollars, we were not about to take a chance.
However, to return to the airport, we were transported by one of the Elfick’s Russian drivers in a blissfully air-conditioned vehicle. The road in from the airport is typical of major Russian routes (in Moscow too) being multilane boulevards with wide (often grassed and flower studded) central islands. The major routes of St. Petes (including the two most important being Moscovskiy and Nevskiy Prospekts) radiate out from a central meeting point near the Neva River.
Out near the airport are wide public open spaces. All Russians in the city live in massive apartment blocks. During the short period of warmth (about 6 weeks in July and August) they flock to the open spaces and strip off to expose themselves to the sun. The grassy areas alongside the road are studded with reclining sun-worshippers.
On the road in, one passes monuments on a massive scale – the monument and museum commemorating the 900-day siege of Leningrad by the Germans in WW 2 marks the effective entrance into the city. The bravery and stoicism of the Russian citizens of the then Leningrad is aptly marked by the huge circular monument, with a jagged break in the circumference representing the fall of the city, eternal flames and huge cast groups showing all the categories of citizens who contributed. The museum is not overblown, but displays simply and eloquently the almost unbelievable steadfastness of the besieged city, that lost half its population.
The museum is a huge circle and marks the beginning of Moscovskiy Prospekt – the good taste of the monument is impinged upon by the sight on each side of the Prospekt of two identical massive buildings designed and built in the Communist era, of unutterable concrete ugliness – these are perhaps the only two really ugly buildings I saw in St. Petes (many of the newer apartment blocks are merely bland and faceless)
Further along Moskovskiy one passes a huge pointing Lenin – unlike the tsars and emperors, the Communist leaders have not by and large survived in statuary form, apart from Lenin.
There are many emperors on horseback, authors (Dostoevsky, Gogol, Tolstoy and the like) brooding over St Petes and Moscow. One passes a huge Brandenberg-gate like monument to one or other victory of war topped by neo-classical forms of heroic warriors. The Russians do not forget their tragedies, their victories or their heroes. They have successfully preserved the beauty and character of a remarkable city with a glorious history, succeeding only in blocking from visible memory the gloom and paranoia of the Communist years. Unfortunately (as with the relentless spectre of apartheid) the excesses of control exercised in those years continue to bear heavy on the Russian psyche.
Even on a Sunday our trip from the airport was marked by heavy traffic. One sees plenty of Ladas (Fiat 124 clones) driven by Mr Average, or young jollers. However there are large numbers of expensive (mainly European, not Japanese) vehicles – big BMW’s and Mercedes, some Audis and Volvos and many SUV’s – clearly money is being made and spent by many in St Petes.
THE CITY
St. Petersburg was built on what was essentially a swamp, at the mouth of the Neva River into the Gulf of Finland (a shallow flat and somewhat stagnant stretch of water, not really worthy of the name sea) The city is networked with canals. The Neva (and by extension the canals) are heavily polluted. One is warned not to drink from the taps as the water supply is drawn from the Neva and the purification process does not remove either an endemic amoeba which causes painful diarrhea (residents are largely immune) or heavy metals which cause undetermined long term damage. Residents however do swim in the Neva, mainly at the ‘beach’ at the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is also where the polar bear club meets –they are reputed to swim every day of the year, even in minus 35 degree C temperatures when the Neva had frozento 1.5 metres thick. As with all cities on the water however, the presence of the river and the canals provides a pleasant relief from the cityscape. It is seldom that one is not passing alongside or over a canal on the river, and the bridges (especially over the canals) are fascinating and beautiful.
The road infrastructure is good, although off the main routes there are potholes and places where the heavy steel trams have gouged up the road alongside the tracks, making them impassable other than to 4x4’s. Rob tells me there has been a marked improvement in city infrastructure in the 18 months they have been there, and it seems central government spending will now be redirected from Moscow (which in the 11 years since I was last there has undergone a remarkable transformation) It strikes me that I may have been painting a somewhat negative picture. The city of St Petersburg in keeping with the intentions of its founder is essentially a ‘ European’ city as interpreted by the Russians and this makes it unique. It is both constantly impressive and beautiful.
Its buildings constantly amaze – as we drove down unimportant access routes we would see buildings currently used for some nondescript purpose, but which bear the signs of loving architectural design – one after the other – our necks became strained from “looking at that!” and we became lost for superlatives to describe the wonders we were seeing. Graceful columns, embossed designs, figures and statues, swooping architrave’s appear everywhere – on the main thoroughfares, such as Nevskiy Prospekt one sees the massive department store of the Gostiny Dvor, the amazing design of the old Singer Sewing Machine Building, interspersed with churches, cathedrals, theatres, small parks and statues. The imposing facades of the buildings do not always reveal what lies behind (especially to those untutored in Cyrillic) but step through any door and find a host of opportunities for those who revel in retail recreation – many in “old-fashioned “ surroundings such as the grocery store which retains its heavy sloping glass fronted display cases with wood frames and marble tops, stained glass windows and the aura of a bygone era (“Yasileevs” – redolent of the old “Hustlers, the grocer” of Main Street, PE). Many outlets are in extensive below street level basements or off alleyways running crookedly between and sometimes through buildings – many having internal courtyards. The massive Nevskiy market is contained inside the square created by a building which covers a city block, but only around the outside – the interior is a plaza, accessible only through narrow pedestrian walkways – on Nevskiy itself you would not know it was there.
The features of the city are monuments (I have said enough about them – without counting I suspect the most numerous are to Catherine the Great and Alexander 1.)
Secondly I guess would come the palaces. They seem to be ubiquitous – not only did the emperors create enormous, endlessly beautiful fantasy masterpieces, but everyone with a bit of money seems to have had a palace as well. The Winter Palace (Hermitage), the Catherine Palace, Peterhof with its fountains, the Alexander Palace are all available to visit. In most cases only a small portion of each is available to view, but even still it is a foot-wearying job working through them. The Hermitage Museum (which is packed with priceless works of art – reputedly 90% of what they have is still in storage) will reputedly take you 14 years to view. We were not able to spend time on the art – just the rooms were enough – in many cases each room was designed by famous architects for a specific purpose and then created over a period of years by skilled artisans and craftsmen. Again, superlatives so not do justice to the reality. Added to the above are the “non-royal” palaces such as the Engineer’s Palace, The Yussopov palace and others. The latter was built as a town house to hold the merchant, Yussopov’s art collection (much of which is still there.) He saw fit to build a 180 seat theatre in the house (complete with Royal box) to the whim of his daughter who had a yen for the stage, but as a society lady could not be seen on the stages of the public theatres. Yussopov Palace is a manageable size and again leaves one agape. It is quite astounding how much art and other treasures (not to mention these monuments to aristocracy and elitism] survived the communist years, the depredations of looting Germans and the like.
It is similarly interesting to see the extent to which churches have survived. The Kazan Cathedral, a crumbling edifice in the course of restoration, dominates the middle of Nevskiy Prospekt and continues to host not only masses of tourists but seemingly continuous services and many merely passing in the street who call in to light a candle.
From the front of the cathedral one looks across down the canal (alongside which Rob and Michele live) at the gingerbread castle fantasy of the much more recently built Church on the Spilt Blood – perhaps now one of the most photographed views of St. Petersburg. Other notable turreted, bell towered and gold leafed masterpieces include St Nicholas Cathedral (built for sailors) Peter and Paul Cathedral (in the similarly named fortress, where all of the Tsars and Tsarinas are buried) and St. Isaac’s which has a walkway “in the sky” around its golden dome and from which a panoramic view of the city is available. And those are just some of the the Russian Orthodox churches. Others we saw included the Catholic Cathedral and the “Armenian Church”, and a large Mosque decorated in turquoise mosaic.
As I have mentioned before, another constant in the city is bridges. Those on the Nevskiy are all capable of lifting and are opened at 1:30 in the morning to allow river traffic through (ships of similar size to the coastal freighters which ply the African waters, but with pared down superstructures navigate the Neva) On warm summer nights in July and August, it is only dark for a couple of hours and the opening of the bridges an attraction to tourists (the vast majority of tourists are Russian) and locals alike. All along the river, floating restaurants and kiosks alike do brisk business in beer and meals whilst crowds of people promenade along the water’s edge. Certainly at this time of year St.Petersburg does not sleep.
The many canals are criss-crossed with bridges; many decorated with golden winged lions or other mythical beasts, gold leafed columns and turrets, on tower bridge-like arches. Perhaps my favourite is the “Taming of the Horses” on Nevskiy, at each of the four corners of which is a large representation of a straining horse being controlled by a muscular man – each being unique. From road or water, this bridge is spectacular. For runners (who seem to be Rob, Michelle and their visitors) the Neva bridges, with their slight inclines, represent the only hills available in the city.
The city features a number of open spaces (some of which are squares or plazas) but include a number of parks. We visited the Summer Garden (very popular with strollers) the park around the Mars monument and one morning went to run on Yelagin Island, on one of the tributaries of the Neva. On the island on which the Peter and Paul Fortress is constructed (commissioned by Peter the Great to command the seaward approach to Petersburg) there is a “beach” alongside the walls of the fortress, an artificially created stretch of what I will charitably call sand, which attracts not only sunworshippers, but bathers who brave the scummy waters of the Neva in all temperatures.
At Peterhof, not only is the palace surrounded by beautiful gardens throughout which are situated the many astounding fountains, but the palace is on the Gulf of Finland, also a popular bathing spot. I saw large numbers of people heading off a wide dark stretch of mud serving as a beach. About 200m offshore, the water remains only waist deep, so not much real swimming is done.
Although many residents of St. Petersburg now seem to have access to cars, a great many remain reliant on public transport. The main means is the Metro. Built during Communist times and generally paraded as a triumph of the state, the metro as experienced by us in St. Petersburg and Moscow is efficient, fast and cheap. In St. Petes, the tunnels are deep (due to the swamp-like nature of the soil) with steep, long very fast escalators – no room for hesitation. The connecting pedestrian tunnels are clinically tiled like old-fashioned provincial hospitals, with white tiles. Many taxis ply the streets and fares can be negotiated if business is not good. Many streets have tram tracks on which extremely heavy old steel trams operate – obviously also going back to the early communist era. These have a tendency to tear up the tar surrounding the tracks and where this has occurred, the 4x4 was welcome. There are also “route taxis” looking somewhat like the proposed replacements for our local taxis. Interestingly there seems to be little commercial ferry traffic on the river and canals. Large hydrofoils carry day-trippers to and from Peterhof and the sightseeing boats ply the Neva and the canals. On the streets traffic is heavy, except in the morning (The vodka seems to kick in at about 3:00 or 4:00 ) and traffic only picks up at 8:00 or so, increasing with the rush to get to work at 9:00 and peaking from then until midday (obviously winter will change this pattern- apparently many cars are put away for the winter, when driving requires steel studded snow tyres)
For a front seat passenger, a first experience of driving in Russia (on the right) is alarming. The traffic signals do not go to amber from green, but directly to red. From red they change to red and amber together and through to green. Intersection collisions are a favourite pastime and we saw a few and a number of near misses. The prevailing pattern seems to be that if a perceived gap exists, go for it. This includes on the right of a large articulated truck or bus about to turn right. The sport is to make it through the gap before it closes. If alongside a tram, which stops, a driver must stop too (trams are in the middle of the road) – and let the passengers off. It is nor permitted to cross the major boulevards from a side street (even at a controlled intersection) and turn left into the lane on the opposite side – rather one turns right and does a U-turn to face in the opposite direction in a small space left in front of cars stopped at the robot in the main thoroughfare. The roads in central St. Petersburg are often jammed, but I did not see them gridlocked – the traffic always seems to move somehow.
A feature of Russia is “VIP Convoys”. I believe that certain levels of politicians are entitled to travel in vehicles with a flashing red light on the roof and a braying type klaxon. It seems that the ‘right’ in question often seems to pass to others with the means to acquire it. The typical convoy is led by a Mercedes Benz (decked out in traffic police livery, although the average patrolmen use the ubiquitous Fiat 124 type Ladas – presumably they are also sponsored by the convoyed person) Next in line will typically be a black S class Merc 500 or similar and a luxury SUV (BMW X5 or Merc M Class) and followed by another big Merc. They all drive bumper to bumper at considerable speed, through red robots, intersections etc., loud klaxon braying – smoked glass windows complete the “Mafia picture” Apparently the big-shot is usually in the SUV – if a hapless Lada driver gets in the way in an intersection, the big Merc will merely T-bone him and be left whilst the one at the back pulls up to the front. As is apparent in the media, political/business/Mafia assassinations are not uncommon (usually an anonymous shot in the back of the head) and the convoys are a safety mechanism. In such cases the line between politician and "Mafia" is not always apparent.
Traffic cops are everywhere, usually weeding out the unconnected Mr. Average in his Lada, or much bashed Opel or similar to check papers and vehicle, find something wrong and send him on his way a couple of hundred Roubles lighter. This seems to be a tacitly accepted method of income supplementation.
On the business front, the multinationals are moving in, with substantial manufacturing and other facilities. Rob works for JTI, a massive cigarette manufacturer, which markets Russian brands as well as well known names such as Camel. There is now a Coca-Cola plant, a Cadbury’s chocolates and biscuits factory, a Cadbury’s owned Dirol chewing gum plant and more. Many of the major US and European companies seem to use expats at the upper echelons of management although I believe from Rob that the skills transfer rate has resulted in the numbers of expats decreasing. For the present however, it remains cost effective for companies to pay for such skills in US dollars, expensive apartments and cars with drivers. It seems that the level of frustration of operating in an environment where the work ethics and service standards that we take for granted are not only lacking but not understood at all, results in expat burnout after about two years.
On the retail front, over the last 10 years there has been a metamorphosis. I have mentioned the massive shopping precincts such as Gostiny Dvor, the market on Nevskiy and supermarkets. Traders have made imaginative use of atriums, basements, arcade spaces and the like, with few purpose designed retail buildings (such as massive malls). It is possible to find all the major brands and labels as well as many high end boutique shops (such as a beautiful household goods, furniture and appliance store we found – presumably catering to the wealthy “new Russians” – run by a Frenchman and stocking cutting edge European designs). Prices in “label” shops tend to be in ‘units’, somewhere in the shop you will find a conversion, which will give you the Dollar/Euro or Rouble rates. It is a bit confusing for the uninitiated particularly if they think they have found the bargain of the century in Roubles – usually it needs multiplication by at least 30! By and large everyday goods are competitive in Rands. Nearly all CD shops stack huge ranges of CD’s you would never see in Musica (complete set of the Doors, GrandFunk Railroad and John Mayall for example) selling for 70 Roubles (about R18) each. Of course, they are knock- offs, but they sell in legitimate retail outlets. Also DVD’s, computer software and the like are similarly available at bargain basement prices. The latest range of digital cameras is available at about 60% of SA prices.
It is necessary to say something specific about the environment. The most notable feature for South Africans is the massive differential between winter and summer. We experienced the current European wide heatwave with temps usually in the 30-degree C range, with Durban like humidity. Contrast this with December temps of –35 deg C and the massive pressure on city infrastructure will be understood. In the dead of winter, the sun never comes up and at the height of summer it only just goes down. At this time of the year (August) daylight is lost at a rate of 45 mins per day. We experienced one drenching thunderstorm (luckily whilst in the Pajero) which rapidly caused streets to flood to a depth of a metre and dropped visibility to a few metres. In winter the city is blanketed by heavy snow, the Neva (and the Gulf of Finland) freezes to a depth of 1.5 metres. The city is dotted with tall chimneys of the heating plants, which produce steam to heat office and apartment blocks. It seems that it is in this area of infrastructure that much work needs to be done. In some apartment blocks the heating has failed, making for a bitter winter.
The vehicles still use poor quality fuel, leading to stinging eyes and coughing due to poor air, if one is using foot-power. But it has certainly vastly improved since I was last in Russia in 1992.
By way of contrast, the newspaper reports on the action being taken by the government against the Cadbury’s owned Dirol plant for illegal use of chemicals contrary to factory specs approved when it was built.
The Neva River remains polluted in spite of being the city water supply – visitors are warned in guidebooks of the pernicious amoeba, which causes major runs.
The contrasts in weather are visible on the facades of buildings – double glazed windows are essential.
The national government elects a deputy Prime Minister whose sole responsibility is preparing the country for winter. Having to deal with that environment is beyond our understanding. Rob tells me that they stop running below about –8 deg C. Even then he has a pack if bubble wrap which goes into the front of his track suit to protect the leading parts of his anatomy from suffering from frost-bite.
Finally, I have to make some comments about the people. I won’t pretend after 10 days to have any great insights. The greats of Russian literature have attempted to expose the Russian psyche. I obviously cannot compete. In 1992 the Russians seemed to be almost in a daze – they were confused as to how to deal with the collapse of a massive centrist communist regime – most people had known nothing else. It was hard for people to take control of their own lives to the extent required. However it is now apparent that they have succeeded in doing so to a far greater degree than I would have believed possible. There is an air of confidence, of security and of self-worth which was lacking 11 years ago. Of course, the government remains largely centrist in nature and the people seem to accept a far higher level of central control and intervention than is the case in SA. The Russians that one meets (policemen, ticket sellers, and shop assistants et al) seem to have no consciousness of being part of a greater world. They will incorporate Western consumerism and culture into their own lives, but on their terms. US movies are available on DVD, but with Russian soundtracks (unlike in most other European countries which often make do only with subtitles) In fact, those with soundtracks by “realist” translators, who incorporate the modern Russian slang, swearwords and references to “new Russian” culture are much in demand. I detect a deep seated and unbending sense of “Russian-ness” which pervades the make up of every Russian. I have not in any other country experienced the same sense of identity by the people with their country, their language, their culture, with a national religion (even by those who reject it) such a sense of sharing of centuries of national suffering and melancholy, as with the Russians. Perhaps only the French come close in their essential Frenchness. It is perhaps this, which gives rise to the serial grumpiness, the pervasive scowl, the refusal to be helpful with which one tends to be faced from all Russians. The usual Western tourist’s refrain of “Do you speak English?” is usually met with a contemptuous dismissal and often with a torrent of abusive Russian, essentially “why should I speak English, this is Russia and I am a Russian”. On the other hand, it is possible with time to get behind the façade and as long as the proper degree of respect and understanding is shown for the fact that one is dealing with a Russian, to find friendliness and hospitality.
In St.Petersburg, women are reputed to outnumber men by 5 to 1. And what women! The promenading masses on Nevskiy Prospekt in the afternoon contain as abnormally high proportion of beautiful women. Uniformly small boned and slim, they parade in tiny skirts, high heels, tight and plunging tops designed to display all their charms without actually being quite naked, and without somehow lacking taste or being vulgar. Perhaps it is the disdainful “Nevskiy strut” – hips and breasts thrust forward, legs swinging from the hips, heads held high- which is the saving grace. Certainly there is an eye-popping panoply of pulchritude, unaffected by dour notions of politically correct feminism.
St.Petersburg is perhaps the quintessential new Russian City. It retains with pride its ancient heritage – yet it has developed its own lifestyle and vibrancy – a mixture of wild-west land-grab Mafia barons, petty corruption, new money, optimism, growth, goods in the shops, luxury cars and perhaps overall a sense of opportunities and a better future which has continuously emerged over traditional Russian pessimism.
A visit to St.Petersburg is recommended to all readers who have endured this far!
Preconceptions
My wife Baubie and I had the privilege of spending the last 10 days of July with Port Elizabethans, Rob and Michele Elfick in St. Petersburg where they have been living for 18 months.
Inevitably one approaches a visit of this nature with some preconceptions, in my case arising from memories of a visit to Moscow in 1992, the impressions of Rob and Michelle circulated to their friends by e-mail, recent extensive media coverage of matters Russian (e.g. Chechnya, Putin’s administration, the 300th anniversary of St. Petersburg and the G8 visit) and not least the vestiges of cold war and apartheid era propaganda instilled in baby-boomers like me. These preconceptions include visions of a crumbling infrastructure, a confused and overly bureaucratic administration, corruption, “Mafia” dominance, a struggling economy and 3rd world environmental and other standards. Like much about Russia, such preconceptions are both true and untrue. Russia and its people are full of contradictions, making the visit for me, brief as it was, a fascinating experience.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
We arrived at St Petersburg’s Pulkova Airport in the early afternoon on a day which weather wise, set the pattern for our entire stay – hot (+/- 30 degrees C) and muggy. The majority of arrivals debark within a couple of hours of each other each day, and passengers issue almost directly off the plane into a dingy, unrelentingly plain and unbearably hot hall, too small for the numbers, and immediately queue at about 10 passport control windows. Although Russians are supposed to go through the ‘citizens’ control point, for some reason many of them prefer to use the others, often waiting much longer and adding to the discomfort of the rest of us. The passport control officers are the Russians of my preconceptions – forbidding, unsmiling women who snatch at passports and documents and spend an interminable time poring over them to no apparent end –family groups are not permitted to present themselves together – those who attempt to do so are waved imperiously back.
We nevertheless got through in what apparently is a record time – about an hour. Rob tells of a recent return from Finland when after standing in the queue for in excess of an hour, the booth he was heading for closed without explanation, leaving him and others to rejoin another queue – at the back!
The luggage hall was strangely cool – it may even have been air-conditioned. The carousel (only one) was inadequate, and officials randomly hauled bags off to make more space, leaving one to search through piles of bags on the floor to find one’s luggage.
The grogginess caused by heat, flu and a long sleepless flight caused us to leave a small bag. The next day however we found it to have been collected, efficiently sealed and locked up and available for collection after completion of two lengthy forms and a written customs declaration declaring that we had nothing to declare!
We were finally met by the happy smiling faces of Rob and Michelle, complete with traditional bouquet for Baubie. I later realized why they stood out so much from the crowd – they were the smiling ones.
The airport gave us our first experience of the emphatic unhelpfulness of Russians (i.e. those that you don’t know) Nobody (officials, shop assistants – even ticket sellers and others at major tourist attractions) is prepared to make an effort to help or to understand. Often you will be berated aggressively in Russian (presumably for not speaking Russian or daring to ask if they speak English) Accordingly, (or perhaps I should say especially) by South African standards the service levels are extremely poor. The level of bureaucracy (of the unnecessary red-tape sort) remains high.
For example, visitors to Russia may not stay with friends (Russian or otherwise) It is necessary to check into an accommodation establishment which retains your passports and registers you with the authorities. The recognized (almost overtly so) practice however is to pay for a night’s accommodation at such an establishment, in our case a back packer’s hostel, leave one’s passports (against all international traveller’s advice) and come back in a day or so to receive the necessary certificate. In our case, it turned out we had not been given the correct form at the airport, making it necessary to write to the relevant office requesting one, then return to complete it, once again leave it and passports with the hostel and hope for the best. It turns out that we had got caught in the coils of a common dilemma. A law or procedure had changed at a high level but no forms or advice had filtered down. It is quite possible that we no longer required the form to get out of Russia but as the penalty at the exit point (usually under pressure of an imminently departing flight) is a fine of varying hundreds of US dollars, we were not about to take a chance.
However, to return to the airport, we were transported by one of the Elfick’s Russian drivers in a blissfully air-conditioned vehicle. The road in from the airport is typical of major Russian routes (in Moscow too) being multilane boulevards with wide (often grassed and flower studded) central islands. The major routes of St. Petes (including the two most important being Moscovskiy and Nevskiy Prospekts) radiate out from a central meeting point near the Neva River.
Out near the airport are wide public open spaces. All Russians in the city live in massive apartment blocks. During the short period of warmth (about 6 weeks in July and August) they flock to the open spaces and strip off to expose themselves to the sun. The grassy areas alongside the road are studded with reclining sun-worshippers.
On the road in, one passes monuments on a massive scale – the monument and museum commemorating the 900-day siege of Leningrad by the Germans in WW 2 marks the effective entrance into the city. The bravery and stoicism of the Russian citizens of the then Leningrad is aptly marked by the huge circular monument, with a jagged break in the circumference representing the fall of the city, eternal flames and huge cast groups showing all the categories of citizens who contributed. The museum is not overblown, but displays simply and eloquently the almost unbelievable steadfastness of the besieged city, that lost half its population.
The museum is a huge circle and marks the beginning of Moscovskiy Prospekt – the good taste of the monument is impinged upon by the sight on each side of the Prospekt of two identical massive buildings designed and built in the Communist era, of unutterable concrete ugliness – these are perhaps the only two really ugly buildings I saw in St. Petes (many of the newer apartment blocks are merely bland and faceless)
Further along Moskovskiy one passes a huge pointing Lenin – unlike the tsars and emperors, the Communist leaders have not by and large survived in statuary form, apart from Lenin.
There are many emperors on horseback, authors (Dostoevsky, Gogol, Tolstoy and the like) brooding over St Petes and Moscow. One passes a huge Brandenberg-gate like monument to one or other victory of war topped by neo-classical forms of heroic warriors. The Russians do not forget their tragedies, their victories or their heroes. They have successfully preserved the beauty and character of a remarkable city with a glorious history, succeeding only in blocking from visible memory the gloom and paranoia of the Communist years. Unfortunately (as with the relentless spectre of apartheid) the excesses of control exercised in those years continue to bear heavy on the Russian psyche.
Even on a Sunday our trip from the airport was marked by heavy traffic. One sees plenty of Ladas (Fiat 124 clones) driven by Mr Average, or young jollers. However there are large numbers of expensive (mainly European, not Japanese) vehicles – big BMW’s and Mercedes, some Audis and Volvos and many SUV’s – clearly money is being made and spent by many in St Petes.
THE CITY
St. Petersburg was built on what was essentially a swamp, at the mouth of the Neva River into the Gulf of Finland (a shallow flat and somewhat stagnant stretch of water, not really worthy of the name sea) The city is networked with canals. The Neva (and by extension the canals) are heavily polluted. One is warned not to drink from the taps as the water supply is drawn from the Neva and the purification process does not remove either an endemic amoeba which causes painful diarrhea (residents are largely immune) or heavy metals which cause undetermined long term damage. Residents however do swim in the Neva, mainly at the ‘beach’ at the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is also where the polar bear club meets –they are reputed to swim every day of the year, even in minus 35 degree C temperatures when the Neva had frozento 1.5 metres thick. As with all cities on the water however, the presence of the river and the canals provides a pleasant relief from the cityscape. It is seldom that one is not passing alongside or over a canal on the river, and the bridges (especially over the canals) are fascinating and beautiful.
The road infrastructure is good, although off the main routes there are potholes and places where the heavy steel trams have gouged up the road alongside the tracks, making them impassable other than to 4x4’s. Rob tells me there has been a marked improvement in city infrastructure in the 18 months they have been there, and it seems central government spending will now be redirected from Moscow (which in the 11 years since I was last there has undergone a remarkable transformation) It strikes me that I may have been painting a somewhat negative picture. The city of St Petersburg in keeping with the intentions of its founder is essentially a ‘ European’ city as interpreted by the Russians and this makes it unique. It is both constantly impressive and beautiful.
Its buildings constantly amaze – as we drove down unimportant access routes we would see buildings currently used for some nondescript purpose, but which bear the signs of loving architectural design – one after the other – our necks became strained from “looking at that!” and we became lost for superlatives to describe the wonders we were seeing. Graceful columns, embossed designs, figures and statues, swooping architrave’s appear everywhere – on the main thoroughfares, such as Nevskiy Prospekt one sees the massive department store of the Gostiny Dvor, the amazing design of the old Singer Sewing Machine Building, interspersed with churches, cathedrals, theatres, small parks and statues. The imposing facades of the buildings do not always reveal what lies behind (especially to those untutored in Cyrillic) but step through any door and find a host of opportunities for those who revel in retail recreation – many in “old-fashioned “ surroundings such as the grocery store which retains its heavy sloping glass fronted display cases with wood frames and marble tops, stained glass windows and the aura of a bygone era (“Yasileevs” – redolent of the old “Hustlers, the grocer” of Main Street, PE). Many outlets are in extensive below street level basements or off alleyways running crookedly between and sometimes through buildings – many having internal courtyards. The massive Nevskiy market is contained inside the square created by a building which covers a city block, but only around the outside – the interior is a plaza, accessible only through narrow pedestrian walkways – on Nevskiy itself you would not know it was there.
The features of the city are monuments (I have said enough about them – without counting I suspect the most numerous are to Catherine the Great and Alexander 1.)
Secondly I guess would come the palaces. They seem to be ubiquitous – not only did the emperors create enormous, endlessly beautiful fantasy masterpieces, but everyone with a bit of money seems to have had a palace as well. The Winter Palace (Hermitage), the Catherine Palace, Peterhof with its fountains, the Alexander Palace are all available to visit. In most cases only a small portion of each is available to view, but even still it is a foot-wearying job working through them. The Hermitage Museum (which is packed with priceless works of art – reputedly 90% of what they have is still in storage) will reputedly take you 14 years to view. We were not able to spend time on the art – just the rooms were enough – in many cases each room was designed by famous architects for a specific purpose and then created over a period of years by skilled artisans and craftsmen. Again, superlatives so not do justice to the reality. Added to the above are the “non-royal” palaces such as the Engineer’s Palace, The Yussopov palace and others. The latter was built as a town house to hold the merchant, Yussopov’s art collection (much of which is still there.) He saw fit to build a 180 seat theatre in the house (complete with Royal box) to the whim of his daughter who had a yen for the stage, but as a society lady could not be seen on the stages of the public theatres. Yussopov Palace is a manageable size and again leaves one agape. It is quite astounding how much art and other treasures (not to mention these monuments to aristocracy and elitism] survived the communist years, the depredations of looting Germans and the like.
It is similarly interesting to see the extent to which churches have survived. The Kazan Cathedral, a crumbling edifice in the course of restoration, dominates the middle of Nevskiy Prospekt and continues to host not only masses of tourists but seemingly continuous services and many merely passing in the street who call in to light a candle.
From the front of the cathedral one looks across down the canal (alongside which Rob and Michele live) at the gingerbread castle fantasy of the much more recently built Church on the Spilt Blood – perhaps now one of the most photographed views of St. Petersburg. Other notable turreted, bell towered and gold leafed masterpieces include St Nicholas Cathedral (built for sailors) Peter and Paul Cathedral (in the similarly named fortress, where all of the Tsars and Tsarinas are buried) and St. Isaac’s which has a walkway “in the sky” around its golden dome and from which a panoramic view of the city is available. And those are just some of the the Russian Orthodox churches. Others we saw included the Catholic Cathedral and the “Armenian Church”, and a large Mosque decorated in turquoise mosaic.
As I have mentioned before, another constant in the city is bridges. Those on the Nevskiy are all capable of lifting and are opened at 1:30 in the morning to allow river traffic through (ships of similar size to the coastal freighters which ply the African waters, but with pared down superstructures navigate the Neva) On warm summer nights in July and August, it is only dark for a couple of hours and the opening of the bridges an attraction to tourists (the vast majority of tourists are Russian) and locals alike. All along the river, floating restaurants and kiosks alike do brisk business in beer and meals whilst crowds of people promenade along the water’s edge. Certainly at this time of year St.Petersburg does not sleep.
The many canals are criss-crossed with bridges; many decorated with golden winged lions or other mythical beasts, gold leafed columns and turrets, on tower bridge-like arches. Perhaps my favourite is the “Taming of the Horses” on Nevskiy, at each of the four corners of which is a large representation of a straining horse being controlled by a muscular man – each being unique. From road or water, this bridge is spectacular. For runners (who seem to be Rob, Michelle and their visitors) the Neva bridges, with their slight inclines, represent the only hills available in the city.
The city features a number of open spaces (some of which are squares or plazas) but include a number of parks. We visited the Summer Garden (very popular with strollers) the park around the Mars monument and one morning went to run on Yelagin Island, on one of the tributaries of the Neva. On the island on which the Peter and Paul Fortress is constructed (commissioned by Peter the Great to command the seaward approach to Petersburg) there is a “beach” alongside the walls of the fortress, an artificially created stretch of what I will charitably call sand, which attracts not only sunworshippers, but bathers who brave the scummy waters of the Neva in all temperatures.
At Peterhof, not only is the palace surrounded by beautiful gardens throughout which are situated the many astounding fountains, but the palace is on the Gulf of Finland, also a popular bathing spot. I saw large numbers of people heading off a wide dark stretch of mud serving as a beach. About 200m offshore, the water remains only waist deep, so not much real swimming is done.
Although many residents of St. Petersburg now seem to have access to cars, a great many remain reliant on public transport. The main means is the Metro. Built during Communist times and generally paraded as a triumph of the state, the metro as experienced by us in St. Petersburg and Moscow is efficient, fast and cheap. In St. Petes, the tunnels are deep (due to the swamp-like nature of the soil) with steep, long very fast escalators – no room for hesitation. The connecting pedestrian tunnels are clinically tiled like old-fashioned provincial hospitals, with white tiles. Many taxis ply the streets and fares can be negotiated if business is not good. Many streets have tram tracks on which extremely heavy old steel trams operate – obviously also going back to the early communist era. These have a tendency to tear up the tar surrounding the tracks and where this has occurred, the 4x4 was welcome. There are also “route taxis” looking somewhat like the proposed replacements for our local taxis. Interestingly there seems to be little commercial ferry traffic on the river and canals. Large hydrofoils carry day-trippers to and from Peterhof and the sightseeing boats ply the Neva and the canals. On the streets traffic is heavy, except in the morning (The vodka seems to kick in at about 3:00 or 4:00 ) and traffic only picks up at 8:00 or so, increasing with the rush to get to work at 9:00 and peaking from then until midday (obviously winter will change this pattern- apparently many cars are put away for the winter, when driving requires steel studded snow tyres)
For a front seat passenger, a first experience of driving in Russia (on the right) is alarming. The traffic signals do not go to amber from green, but directly to red. From red they change to red and amber together and through to green. Intersection collisions are a favourite pastime and we saw a few and a number of near misses. The prevailing pattern seems to be that if a perceived gap exists, go for it. This includes on the right of a large articulated truck or bus about to turn right. The sport is to make it through the gap before it closes. If alongside a tram, which stops, a driver must stop too (trams are in the middle of the road) – and let the passengers off. It is nor permitted to cross the major boulevards from a side street (even at a controlled intersection) and turn left into the lane on the opposite side – rather one turns right and does a U-turn to face in the opposite direction in a small space left in front of cars stopped at the robot in the main thoroughfare. The roads in central St. Petersburg are often jammed, but I did not see them gridlocked – the traffic always seems to move somehow.
A feature of Russia is “VIP Convoys”. I believe that certain levels of politicians are entitled to travel in vehicles with a flashing red light on the roof and a braying type klaxon. It seems that the ‘right’ in question often seems to pass to others with the means to acquire it. The typical convoy is led by a Mercedes Benz (decked out in traffic police livery, although the average patrolmen use the ubiquitous Fiat 124 type Ladas – presumably they are also sponsored by the convoyed person) Next in line will typically be a black S class Merc 500 or similar and a luxury SUV (BMW X5 or Merc M Class) and followed by another big Merc. They all drive bumper to bumper at considerable speed, through red robots, intersections etc., loud klaxon braying – smoked glass windows complete the “Mafia picture” Apparently the big-shot is usually in the SUV – if a hapless Lada driver gets in the way in an intersection, the big Merc will merely T-bone him and be left whilst the one at the back pulls up to the front. As is apparent in the media, political/business/Mafia assassinations are not uncommon (usually an anonymous shot in the back of the head) and the convoys are a safety mechanism. In such cases the line between politician and "Mafia" is not always apparent.
Traffic cops are everywhere, usually weeding out the unconnected Mr. Average in his Lada, or much bashed Opel or similar to check papers and vehicle, find something wrong and send him on his way a couple of hundred Roubles lighter. This seems to be a tacitly accepted method of income supplementation.
On the business front, the multinationals are moving in, with substantial manufacturing and other facilities. Rob works for JTI, a massive cigarette manufacturer, which markets Russian brands as well as well known names such as Camel. There is now a Coca-Cola plant, a Cadbury’s chocolates and biscuits factory, a Cadbury’s owned Dirol chewing gum plant and more. Many of the major US and European companies seem to use expats at the upper echelons of management although I believe from Rob that the skills transfer rate has resulted in the numbers of expats decreasing. For the present however, it remains cost effective for companies to pay for such skills in US dollars, expensive apartments and cars with drivers. It seems that the level of frustration of operating in an environment where the work ethics and service standards that we take for granted are not only lacking but not understood at all, results in expat burnout after about two years.
On the retail front, over the last 10 years there has been a metamorphosis. I have mentioned the massive shopping precincts such as Gostiny Dvor, the market on Nevskiy and supermarkets. Traders have made imaginative use of atriums, basements, arcade spaces and the like, with few purpose designed retail buildings (such as massive malls). It is possible to find all the major brands and labels as well as many high end boutique shops (such as a beautiful household goods, furniture and appliance store we found – presumably catering to the wealthy “new Russians” – run by a Frenchman and stocking cutting edge European designs). Prices in “label” shops tend to be in ‘units’, somewhere in the shop you will find a conversion, which will give you the Dollar/Euro or Rouble rates. It is a bit confusing for the uninitiated particularly if they think they have found the bargain of the century in Roubles – usually it needs multiplication by at least 30! By and large everyday goods are competitive in Rands. Nearly all CD shops stack huge ranges of CD’s you would never see in Musica (complete set of the Doors, GrandFunk Railroad and John Mayall for example) selling for 70 Roubles (about R18) each. Of course, they are knock- offs, but they sell in legitimate retail outlets. Also DVD’s, computer software and the like are similarly available at bargain basement prices. The latest range of digital cameras is available at about 60% of SA prices.
It is necessary to say something specific about the environment. The most notable feature for South Africans is the massive differential between winter and summer. We experienced the current European wide heatwave with temps usually in the 30-degree C range, with Durban like humidity. Contrast this with December temps of –35 deg C and the massive pressure on city infrastructure will be understood. In the dead of winter, the sun never comes up and at the height of summer it only just goes down. At this time of the year (August) daylight is lost at a rate of 45 mins per day. We experienced one drenching thunderstorm (luckily whilst in the Pajero) which rapidly caused streets to flood to a depth of a metre and dropped visibility to a few metres. In winter the city is blanketed by heavy snow, the Neva (and the Gulf of Finland) freezes to a depth of 1.5 metres. The city is dotted with tall chimneys of the heating plants, which produce steam to heat office and apartment blocks. It seems that it is in this area of infrastructure that much work needs to be done. In some apartment blocks the heating has failed, making for a bitter winter.
The vehicles still use poor quality fuel, leading to stinging eyes and coughing due to poor air, if one is using foot-power. But it has certainly vastly improved since I was last in Russia in 1992.
By way of contrast, the newspaper reports on the action being taken by the government against the Cadbury’s owned Dirol plant for illegal use of chemicals contrary to factory specs approved when it was built.
The Neva River remains polluted in spite of being the city water supply – visitors are warned in guidebooks of the pernicious amoeba, which causes major runs.
The contrasts in weather are visible on the facades of buildings – double glazed windows are essential.
The national government elects a deputy Prime Minister whose sole responsibility is preparing the country for winter. Having to deal with that environment is beyond our understanding. Rob tells me that they stop running below about –8 deg C. Even then he has a pack if bubble wrap which goes into the front of his track suit to protect the leading parts of his anatomy from suffering from frost-bite.
Finally, I have to make some comments about the people. I won’t pretend after 10 days to have any great insights. The greats of Russian literature have attempted to expose the Russian psyche. I obviously cannot compete. In 1992 the Russians seemed to be almost in a daze – they were confused as to how to deal with the collapse of a massive centrist communist regime – most people had known nothing else. It was hard for people to take control of their own lives to the extent required. However it is now apparent that they have succeeded in doing so to a far greater degree than I would have believed possible. There is an air of confidence, of security and of self-worth which was lacking 11 years ago. Of course, the government remains largely centrist in nature and the people seem to accept a far higher level of central control and intervention than is the case in SA. The Russians that one meets (policemen, ticket sellers, and shop assistants et al) seem to have no consciousness of being part of a greater world. They will incorporate Western consumerism and culture into their own lives, but on their terms. US movies are available on DVD, but with Russian soundtracks (unlike in most other European countries which often make do only with subtitles) In fact, those with soundtracks by “realist” translators, who incorporate the modern Russian slang, swearwords and references to “new Russian” culture are much in demand. I detect a deep seated and unbending sense of “Russian-ness” which pervades the make up of every Russian. I have not in any other country experienced the same sense of identity by the people with their country, their language, their culture, with a national religion (even by those who reject it) such a sense of sharing of centuries of national suffering and melancholy, as with the Russians. Perhaps only the French come close in their essential Frenchness. It is perhaps this, which gives rise to the serial grumpiness, the pervasive scowl, the refusal to be helpful with which one tends to be faced from all Russians. The usual Western tourist’s refrain of “Do you speak English?” is usually met with a contemptuous dismissal and often with a torrent of abusive Russian, essentially “why should I speak English, this is Russia and I am a Russian”. On the other hand, it is possible with time to get behind the façade and as long as the proper degree of respect and understanding is shown for the fact that one is dealing with a Russian, to find friendliness and hospitality.
In St.Petersburg, women are reputed to outnumber men by 5 to 1. And what women! The promenading masses on Nevskiy Prospekt in the afternoon contain as abnormally high proportion of beautiful women. Uniformly small boned and slim, they parade in tiny skirts, high heels, tight and plunging tops designed to display all their charms without actually being quite naked, and without somehow lacking taste or being vulgar. Perhaps it is the disdainful “Nevskiy strut” – hips and breasts thrust forward, legs swinging from the hips, heads held high- which is the saving grace. Certainly there is an eye-popping panoply of pulchritude, unaffected by dour notions of politically correct feminism.
St.Petersburg is perhaps the quintessential new Russian City. It retains with pride its ancient heritage – yet it has developed its own lifestyle and vibrancy – a mixture of wild-west land-grab Mafia barons, petty corruption, new money, optimism, growth, goods in the shops, luxury cars and perhaps overall a sense of opportunities and a better future which has continuously emerged over traditional Russian pessimism.
A visit to St.Petersburg is recommended to all readers who have endured this far!
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