MOUNTAIN ZEBRA PARK
IMPOFU HIKING TRAIL
SATURDAY 11 JULY TO MONDAY 13TH JULY 2009.

On this hike:
Peter, Barbara and Ally (11) Giddy
Hannes, Jacqui, Calvyn (16)and Jordan (14) Zeelie
Stuart Laing (16)
Gerald and Pat Scheepers
Fred Kohler.

The hike had been planned for some time to start on Saturday 27th as this was the first day after school term ended. However the Zeelies were not able to make this weekend due to paddling committments in Plett and this is how it came about that we changed the dates. It was just as well as the original weekend was one of the coldest and wettest weekends that we have had in ages.

Maryna Baard (Susan Burri's friend) was due to hike with us. On the Thursday before the hike a couple of us (Maryna, Susan, Gerald, Adrienne and I) were running through Hallack Drive in the early morning and Maryna tripped and fell. She went down hard and fractured a bone in her arm and was unable to be with us.

Adrienne was leaving later this afternoon for Rome where she would be judging international diving. Her two children, Danielle and Matthew would be traveling to England where they would meet up with elder sister, Jennifer who is a Springbok Hockey player. Jennifer has paid for them to fly over. After the Diving they are all meeting to go hiking in the Alps and this is why Adrienne has been dedicated to her running in recent weeks.

The people administering the hike and the people at reception were most obliging and helpful. Jeannie helped me when we had to change dates, Robin phoned to make certain that the arrangements were correct, Jali assisted us at the reception and there was the man who gave us a talk about the hike and safety aspects. They were all incredibly friendly and helpful.

This would be the third time that Barbara and I would do this hike. The first time we completed the hike and it must have been around summer as the days were very hot and long. We did it with our children when they were still young and at school. The second attempt we completed the first day and then on the second day we climbed the first hill before I realised that I had a Kidney Stone and was in agony. I decided to turn back and the rest of the group did the same. So our second day was a really relaxed day as we hiked along the road to the second hut.

Stuart had not hiked a trail of this nature before. He remembered us from Rhodes where his dad, Andrew, had run the Rhodes marathon with us and we had all stayed at "Die Pastorie". Ally also remembered Stuart. They had played ping pong together. This was July 2005 when Andrew had received his permanent number at Rhodes. Andrew was up at Rhodes while we were on the hike. See Blog of July 2005: Rhodes Marathon.

Ally and her friends had been at the Walmer Methodist Holiday Club the whole week. Calvyn, Jordan and Stuart had been leaders at the Holiday club. From reports, this had been a most successful week of fun and teaching. Amber was not able to come on this hike as she had Ballet Classes which cannot be missed. She kindly wrote Ally a letter, telling her how much she wished that she could have been there.

Hannes and family left on Friday night and stayed over at his sister who lives in Cradock. Gerald left about a half hour before us. Fred followed me and we left at about 5.45am on Saturday morning. We filled up with petrol at Colchester. I had set my GPS and the distance from our house to the main gate of the Park was 255kays. We took a gentle drive averaging around 100kph. It was extremely relaxing. We stopped to look at some Buck that we saw about 50kays this side of Cradock. They looked like Impala but were darker (almost Black) with a white flash on the bridge of the nose. They are not listed in our game guide.

Our next stop was at the Daggaboer Farm stall. Fred purchased a pair of Mohair Boot socks. Barbara bought herself some biltong and a filter coffee. The drive to the main gate of the Park took us about 3 hours. As we drove the 12kays to the Camp area we saw Oribi, Zebra, Springbok, Eland and Kudu. This park has more than it's full of game to see.

At the main camp we met up with the rest of the group and registered for the hike. We were given a fairly comprehensive talk on safety as we were in the open where it is entirely possible to encounter wild animals including buffalo and Rhinosourus. Hannes later commented that the talk had been devised at some head office as they advised climbing a tree or running uphill. With a loaded backpack? Up Doring Boom? Yeah Right! Another interesting fact is that, as we were readying ourselves, Andy and Bev Bolton (with daughter and friend) drove into camp. They planned to spend the weekend doing some game viewing.

Impofu is the Xhosa name for Eland. The Xhosa word used for Zebra is Ikwagga (Zulu is Idube). The Kwagga or Quagga became extinct in 1878. The mountain zebra was almost extinct when, in 1913, there were just 27 animals left. The Mountain Zebra park was established in 1937 with 5 stallions and a mare. The park was originally 1700 hectares. In 1998 a series of paintings were auctioned on the TV program 50/50. This enabled the park to be rapidly expanded from 6500 hectares to its present size of 28 000 hectares as surrounding farms were bought up.

We started to hike at about 09.30 and walked along a jeep track. We were hardly about 1kay into the hike when Barbara tripped and fell on her knee. It was a hard fall with her full backpack weighing her down. From there on she was in pain. And to add to this she had a few more falls on the trail which resulted in her twisting her ankle as well. We hiked up the road to the Big Rock. This rock slid down the side of mountain in 1974 and the thunder of the slide could be heard 20kays away in Cradock.

We stopped here for a snack before tackling the first of the hills. As we climbed this hill we were able to see a small herd of three adult and one foal Mountain Zebra. We also saw some Kudu on the Western hillside. As was the case throughout this hike; the boys went on ahead. The rest of us regrouped at the neck and then began our descent. It was not long before we realised that we were lost. The boys were ahead of us and I was prepared to follow them. Fred had also gone on ahead and realised that he was not on the correct trail. There are so many game trails that it is easy to think that you are on the hiking trail, but if you do not see the trail markings of Feet or an Arrow, then you have lost the pathway.

Finally Fred put down his pack and walked back to the rock where we had lost the trail and put us back on track. It was a fairly steep descent on tough terrain before we reached a Jeep Track. At the bottom we crossed the only stream that we saw throughout the three days of the hike. The water was not drinkable except maybe in extreme case of need.

Here the uphill began to take it's toll on Barbara's knee. She was in a lot of trouble and I helped her up the hill. Barbara had discovered that the soles of her hiking boots were coming loose and this compounded her discomfort. As we ascended this hill I looked up to see Fred on his way down. At that stage I left Barbara's backpack and gratefully let Fred take over.

It was only about 500 meters to the start of the final descent to the Olien Hut. The wind was blowing and it became quite chilly. Fred had left his pack at the crossing and Hannes took over and carried it down to the Hut. This must have been a mammoth task as the descent was extremely tough and carrying a second bag would have made the descent almost impossible. Hannes had said he wanted to use the hike as a fitness exercise but this was taking it to the limit.

The descent was very long. About a kay. It was technically difficult. I began to tire and felt shaky with low blood sugar. For me this was probably the toughest part of the three days of hiking. I ate an enery bar and felt better but still felt myself tiring fast. Barbara, Ally and I reached the hut about 30 to 45 minutes after the rest of the group. Today's hike had taken us about 5.30 to 6 hours. We were all very happy to be at the hut. Soon after we arrived a bakkie with two rangers stopped to check that we were safe. Barbara explained that she was injured and would need a ride to the next hut. The driver agreed to be at the hut early the next morning.

Fred started the fire in the "donkey" to heat up the water for a shower. I needed the shower to recover and had a luke warm shower. From there everyone went one at a time and had a wonderful hot shower. We start the evening early with sundowners, snacks, chips, vegetables and dip. We had some bad luck as the steak that we had brought for the hike was "off" and not edible. But fortunately we did not go hungry as we had more than enough food on the hike.

We had bought Ally a new backpack and a new sleeping bag. She was quite comfortable with the backpack and slept well (as she always does) in her new down sleeping bag. The mattresses on this hike are covered with linen, while we are used to mattresses covered in a plastic. They were slightly softer and more comfortable that we expect in a hiking hut. The night was quite cold but not freezing. It rained in the night and Hannes took our provisions out of the fireplace as the rain was dripping on the plastic packets.

In the night Pat woke up worrying about the fire. It seems that she had seen flickering of the fire and realised that the wind was blowing and the fire had flared up and this was potentially dangerous as the fire could easily spread. Barbara and Pat got up to put the fire out. Just at this time I had a cramp attack in both legs and had to ask Barbara to give me a leg rub to ease the pain as I was unable to stretch the pain out of my legs. I find cramping quite exhausting and did not find the strength to help her and Pat put out the fire.

These huts consist of two bedrooms with six bunk beds in each room. The rooms are small but not unbearable. It just forces us to be a little tidier than we normally are on a hike. In the centre is a kitchen area with a fireplace which could be used if it was raining or the hut needed to be heated. Flush loos are provided and hot showers by means of the Donkey. A certain amount of cups, plates, cutlery, a kettle and parafin lamps (in the first hut only) are provided. A good fireplace for a braai and plenty of wood but what is lacking is an area to sit and chat. There are some logs but these are not placed around the fire and the setting is not condusive to a long evening of "Kuiering".

We were in bed early. I had started to read the book 'Fireproof' but I find that I can only read for a short while before my eyelids become so heavy that I cannot stay awake anymore. This night we must have been in bed for about 11 to 12 hours. It is impossible to sleep that long. I would wake up frequently and turn over or lay awake. My limbs were sore and stiff but the nights rest made me feel strong for the second day's hike.

Sunday 12th.
As Barbara had arranged to be collected, I decided that I was not going to carry a backpack. I carried a small packet with a waterproof top and a few snacks for the day plus two water bottles. Barbara and Ally were to wait for the Bakkie to collect them so we packed ready for them to be collected and Fred and I set off first. As we ascended we came across fresh droppings that looked like they were only hours old. We waited at the fork at the top of the ridge for the rest of the group to arrive. First up were the three boys who carried on up the pathway.

As they walked, Fred spotted a Zebra on the path that they would take. The Zebra heard them and was alert for some time before the boys spotted him. We watched as the boys approached and then as the Zebra began to descend the hill. The Zebra would run down for a short while and then stop in a place that completely camouflaged himself. He would silhouette himself agains a bush or tree that had the effect of making him invisible. It was quite interseting for Fred and myself to watch this from a distance.

The first part of the hike took us to the fork and then up along a jeep track. At the top we regrouped and I was able to help Gerald who was battling with his breathing in the thin air. At this stage I estimate that we were about 1500m above sea level. From here we could see the boys across the valley as they had already reached the Bankenberg. This is a Buttress that looks like a bench. They were running around, playing and generally enjoying themselves. As we stood here we could see the mist coming across the mountain tops and could feel the immediate drop in temperature. Fortunately we had brought warm clothing.

Fred had to be back in PE this evening as he had an important job to complete on Monday. He had arranged to be collected from the hut at about 15.30 and decided that he would be better off to press on ahead. The five of us consisted of Hannes and Jacqui, Gerald and Pat and myself. We continued down hill and then up to the Bankberg. At the top we could hear Ally shouting below. We could see the hut but not Ally or Barbara. We did not know what Ally was saying but realised that the Bakkie that was supposed to have fetched them had not turned up. When we later walked to the hut I felt quite upset to see that Ally had scratched the word "help" in the sand next to the hut.

There was nothing that we could do. Barbara had my phone and I could not phone anyone to let them know. Also we thought that they would surely be there at any time shortly. We pressed on and up to just below the highest point in the park know as the Bankenberg. At this point we were just under 2000 meters above sea level. This is a point that is clearly visible from far distances. The range of mountain is known as the Sneuberg. It appears that there had been snow there on the weekend that we were originally planned to be on this hike.

At the top we stopped alongside the old stone wall for a snack. The whole day had been one of clear sky and then cloud cover. The wind was blowing but it was not so cold that we were in distress. Now as we sat down sheltered from the wind, the sun shone on us and we felt as if this was where we should spend the rest of our lives. The warmth, tranquility and feeling of well being was overwhelming. We could see for probably 100kays in all directions.

Finally we decided to get going again. Shortly after we left this spot we had to search for the trail. Thus began a series of lost and found. From here we determined that if we did not see the trail marking of Feet or Arrows then we would stop, backtrack and reorientate ourselves. The trail is well marked but easily lost. There are so many game tracks that can be confused as hiking trails that the hiker has to be extremely careful otherwise you could find yourself on a completely wrong pathway alltogether.

We began a long descent. It was about here that I heard Jacqui telling the story of how Hannes had presented her with this amazing birthday present: a pair of Gaiters. "What are these?" she had demanded of Hannes. "Gaiters that you can use on the hike" answered a proud Hannes. Jacqui announced that she was going to buy Hannes a Sports Bra for his next birthday as it was now him that was wearing these Gaiters! I was reminded of the one and only time that I had tried to purchase Barbara an item of clothing but had "chickened out" when I was approached by a sales lady. Jacqui's advice: 'Phone a friend'.

The descent into the valley was long and technically challenging. This cannot be rushed as it would be very easy to trip and fall or to twist an ankle. There are a number of huge round rocks that we had to walk along, trusting our boots to not slip. During the descent we saw a herd of 6 Zebra across the valley. They remain motionless even at that distance. They are not "skittish" but careful and ready to move if neccessary.

Finally we reached the saddle where we had a short ascent before the final 500m to the hut. Here we discovered that the boys were lighting the fire for the Donkey but no Barbara and Ally. The boys explained that they had arrived about 40 minutes ago and that Fred had been there when they arrived. He had walked out and would be on his way to the Rest Camp.

Hannes and I grabbed a water bottle (and not warm top as it was sunny a the time) and started the walk along the road back to the hut where Barbara and Ally would be waiting. Along the road it was an easy walk and took us about 45 minutes. Just as we approached the hut we could hear Baboons barking. At the hut Barbara told us that they had just brought all the bags and kit into the hut as the Baboons had approached them and sounded very threatening. And not five minutes later the Ranger Tom arrived in the Bakkie to fetch them. We loaded everything into the bakkie and drove back to the Karee Hut where the rest of the group were waiting.

Back at the Karee Hut we settled in for the evening. It was only about 4pm. We all enjoyed a warm shower and started the fire. Out came the sundowners and snacks. It was a little before sundown but in the words of Bill Corkhill: "On the hike there is latitude when it comes to deciding when sundowners may begin". The Donkey was fired up and everyone was able to enjoy a hot shower. Cleaned, tired but refreshed is how we now felt. Now that we were all together we were able to reflect on the day's hike.

The day had been one of the best possible day's for hiking this trail. In Summer you would cook. The weather had been very kind to us. There was a little cloud cover but not so much as to chill us to the bone. The warm rays of sun had been just enough to warm us up but not so much that we had battled with heat. In the final descent the breeze had dropped and we had excellent hiking conditions all round. This was a reasonably tough day but for me was really enjoyable with a light pack and I was feeling fit and strong. At no time did my knees bother me. Hannes had brought some sweets and I used these to 'refuel'. I must remember to takes sweets when ever I am on a hike.

The warmth of the fire, the day's hiking and early evening sundowners combined to put me into a relaxed frame of mind. This evening I was first in bed and reading my book. But as usual the book had a soothing effect and I was soon fast asleep. While I did not have a troubled sleep, I did have a fitful sleep, waking and turning often to ease an ache or stiffness.

When I went outside in the middle of the night, the moon shining so brightly it seemed like dawn. A bright moon like that seems to reflect on the soil. The stars were in full presentation and had it not been so cold it would have been an ideal opportunity for an outdoors sleep.

Monday morning I decided to make some hot chocolate and tried to be as quiet as possible but my movements soon woke the rest of the group (except Ally who has been known to sleep through an Atom Bomb). We prepared our morning drinks and eats, washed and packed ready for 08.00am when Tom the Ranger was due to collect us. And at exactly 08.00am we saw the Bakkie round the corner. It was Goodman, not Tom but that did not matter. Some of us loaded our packs onto the Bakkie, Barbara and Ally jumped on and we all set off for our final walk out.

Barbara and Ally froze on the back. There was nothing that they could do. The short trip seemed to take forever. But Finally they were back at camp where they had a wash and a proper breakfast of eggs and bacon and went for a short game drive.

Meanwhile we walked along the path, losing the trail constantly and regrouping once we found it again. It is not as though you can lose yourself alltogether. The road is always just to the left of the hiker. But it is good to know that you are on the correct hiking trail. We startled a number of buck including Kudu and Fallow Deer or bushbuck.

This morning's walk took us just over 2 hours and we were back in camp with Barbara and Ally waiting for us. Stuart and Calvyn had worn sleevless vests and must ahve been freezing cold in the morning before the sun came out to warm us up. Hannes took his group for a shower. Ally had to be back in PE as early as possible for Drama Practice and we left immediately.

As we drove out, we again spotted a variety of game, including a Black Backed Jackal as he loped alongside the road. At the main gate we saw a pair of secretary birds walking and hunting for snakes and rodents in the long grass. The drive home was a sleepy affair. I drove for a while and then let Barbara take over while I slept. Ally slept for most of the drive and was still half asleep when we dropped her off at Clarendon for Drama Practice.

That evening Fred phoned to let me know how it had gone for him. He had left us at the top of the Bankberg Butress and had walked at a brisk pace. He too had become "lost" on a number of occasions having to backtrack to find the trail. He had waited at the hut for the boys to make sure that they had found their way and then had walked out along the road. Just as he approached the Rest Camp, the bakkie met him and gave him a lift for the final Kay. He then tried to explain to Jali about the arrangement to collect Barbara and Ally. Jali was not aware of the arrangement but promptly sent the bakkie off to collect them and that is how it came about that we met them at the Olien Hut on Sunday evening.

Lessons that I learned on this hike:
While winter may not be ideal for hiking, it is certainly better than the heat of summer.
Water (one litre in winter is the minimum and two in summer) has to be carried as there is absolutely no water on the trail.
Slackpacking is possible on this hike. The rangers are most helpful and accommodating.
Stay in groups as the trail is confusing and one can become lost easily. Always look for the painted feet and arrows. If you lose sight for any time at all then you are probably off the trail.
The hike is physically demanding but if taken slowly with plenty of stops and rest breaks it is not too difficult.
The distances do not seem to be long but the nature of the trail and the terrain makes it a tough hike.
Take it slow: you can spot game while hiking, but not if you are walking to beat a time demand.
Weather descends upon you at the top of the mountain. Be prepared for the very coldest and wettest even when you start off in clear skies.


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Dawn commented as follows:
"Remember Mountain Zebra well, did it twice, both times, I think, with you guys. Remember Jacqui, head down on a hill, almost walking into a kudu and Michael in an uncontrolled down hill sprint with Jacqui on his back. Also Peter in pain on the hill tops - what was it again? Kidney stone? or something! Never been an uneventful hike and it sounds as if this one remained true to the tradition!"

Michael commented as follows:


Dad.

Sounds like you really had an adventure. I completely understand how those leg cramps can wear you out.

I also believe that if mom is going to do hiking from a bakkie - I might be quite interested to join next time.

Mike

Hi Peter

How was the Mountain zebra trail? My heart ached more than the fractured arm… Some pic’s? Haven’t blogged before ! Have done the Otter 2 years ago & would love to do it again. Planning to do the Camino De Santiago next year June- July for 14 days & not sure of dates yet, but will have to finalise asap. Wouldn’t like to loose out again.

Stay well & blessed
Maryna

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