PETER GIDDY.: June 2014

ON THE WAY TO THE ALEXANDRIA HIKING TRAIL WE STOP AT THE KAREL LANDMAN MONUMENT.

ALEXANDRIA HIKING TRAIL TO WOODY CAPE 13TH JUNE 2014

GRAHAM RICHARDS
FRED KOHLER
MARCUS HERR
BRIAN SAUNDERS
BARRY MORRIS
MATT GENDRICH
JOHN AND BRADLEY NELSON

Karel landman

Trek leader Karel Landman 5.3.1796 – 2.5.1875 was forced to leave his farm on the Olifantshoek near to Alexandria after he suffered heavy losses in the sixth Frontier war. In October 1837, after a long period of waiting for circumstances to change, he led a party of 39 families – 200 people – from the same district to Natal where he eventually settled close to the Umgeni river, near Port Natal.

He was second in command in the Battle of Blood River 16.12.1838 and later became the chairman of the Volksraad and Landrost of Pietermaritzburg. After Natalia was Annexed by the British he settled on the farm Uithoek ( near Colenso) where he died and was buried.

When the organisers of the symbolic trek of 1938 did not manage to include the Landman trek in their planning, two leaders of the Sand Vlakte ward (district of Paterson) decided in September 1938 to seek support in building a local monument. Very soon that was done on the Koirant. The site symbolizes Landman because of its prominent and Central position in the area from which the Group trekked. It was also donated by JA Scheepers whose mother (Landman) was a grand daughter of the Trek Leader’s brother; Willem Adolf.

The Globe was placed in such a way that it gives prominence to the Wagon and team of Oxen spanning Southern Africa, Once again symbolizing the settlement of the Voortrekkers there. In 2012 ownership of the site was transferred to the Heritage Foundation who manages it in cooperation with the local Vow Committee.

BRAD AND JOHN AT KAREL LANDMAN

THIS IS THE KAREL LANDMAN HALL AT THE MONUMENT AREA.

We had last done this trail in 2008. Graham and Fred had spoken about doing a trail while cycling and had invited the group to get together. Marcus had a nasty car accident in 2013 and had been walking and trying to get fit again. Barry had long last done a hike but keeps fit with the 6th Ave group. Brian is as fit as he can be and ran last Saturday with our beach front group. The rest of the group stay fit on the bike or jogging.
We left Friday afternoon in three cars. I travelled with John and Bradley. We stopped to see the Karel Landman monument and I showed John how he can access the Amakhala reserve just after the monument.
The drive from PE to Alexandria is about an hour 100km and a further 20min to the hut. Once you reach Alexandria you turn right to Woody Cape Nature Reserve which is now part of SAN Parks Addo Elephant.

OUR OVERNIGHT HUT -- BRIAN HAS AN EARLY BEER

We had been allocated this house as the old overnight huts were being renovated. This house has a hot shower; one loo for a possible 12 people; a fridge and microwave; crockery and other kitchen utensils. and three comfortable rooms sleeping four each. The beds have comfortable mattresses. All you need is your sleeping bag and pillow and food to eat.

GRAHAM STRIPS OFF TO CHOP WOOD FOR THE EVENING BRAAI. HE HAS SOME NAMIBIAN HARDWOOD WHICH MAKES FOR GOOD BRAAI WOOD

The Braai area is set at the back of the house. We had a fire going as it became dusk. It is winter so the sun sets soon after 5pm.
This evening I had some sausages on the braai; mixed vegetables in foil and a micro waved soft potato to warm up. I had enough for the two days of hiking and packed the left overs in the fridge for the hike. A couple of beers and a good supper made us all quite sleepy and we were is bed early.

CHOPPING AND SPLITTING LOGS

Saturday morning -- we are all up early washing, packing and eating various breakfast's. I take instant oats on the hike as it is quick and easy. I had also brought some Nartjies which I have at every opportunity.
The cost of this hike is presently R275pp for the two nights. In addition to this we had to pay a conservation levy of R50 which turned out to be per night so the total cost worked out at R375pp. This is a bit steep but considering the quality of the accommodation over the two nights I dont suppose we should complain.
We started hiking at around 7.30 after the formalities of signing the register and paying the conservation fee.
The first section takes the hiker across the road and up a two hills. The second is long and we regrouped and had a short rest at the top.
Shortly thereafter, at the bottom of that hill, is a beautiful rest area with table and chairs under this huge tree.

THE FIRST DAY TAKES US UP A LONG HILL. WE STOP AT THE TOP FOR A REST AND THEN DOWN TO THE OFFICIAL RESTING SPOT WHERE WE FIND TABLES AND CHAIRS AT THE BASE OF THIS HUGE TREE.

TWO FOOTPRINTS FACING RIGHT -- THIS ALWAYS INDICATES A TURN.

We turn into the forest and continue hiking until we reach the open field where we stop each time we do this hike. There is a tree which gives shade but also one needs to be aware of the ticks which infest fields of this kind. Graham immediately found one crawling on his leg.
At each of these stops I would pull out some left over sausage or a nartjie for a quick bite to eat. I wanted to end this hike with no left over food if possible. There is nothing quite as dumb as carrying food uneaten for two days.
When I packed I had done so with the knowledge that this is a tough two days of about 35k in total and had tried to work it out that I was carrying as little as possible. carrying light is important when hiking the Alexandria trail with the long days and the dunes. I had some warm clothes for the second evening plus just enough food, two beers and most importantly, two liters of water.

JUST BEFORE THE WOODY CAPE BACKPACKERS AND PUB WE TURN RIGHT INTO THE ADDO RESERVE AND ALONG A BOARDWALK TO THE TOP OF THE DUNE.

After the field you walk across the road and towards Woody Cape Backpackers. Matt and I were chatting away about family and Grandchildren and missed to OBVIOUS gate. There is no water at the backpackers. We backtracked along the road, found the turn and headed into the Nature Reserve again. Up along the boarwalk and up to the top of the dune.

GRAHAM; BRIAN AND MATT. BRINGING UP THE REAR OF THE HIKE. SHORTLY AFTER THIS WE MISSED THE TURN AND CONTINUED ON TO THE BACKPACKERS.

MATT ENJOYS THE VIEW FROM THE TOP OF THE BOARDWALK BEFORE HEADING DOWN TO THE BEACH.

Matt, Brian and I admire the view across the beach and of the Bird Island light house. In our bay we have a couple of Islands near to the Coega Harbour called St Croix and then further towards the North East of the bay is Bird Islands group where thousands of Penguins and Gannets live with the seals and gulls which all provide for meals for the sharks that infest this section of the bay. This is a consevation area with limited access. Graham remembers how his Dad would come across to the Island to take care of the family who tended the lighthouse. The Lighthouse is now unmanned and automatic. Graham's dad would explore where ever possible, collecting pictures of all the lighthouses around the country. This is part of his legacy and one of the ways in which Graham developed a love for exploring and the outdoors.

WE SEE THE GROUP DOWN BELOW ON THE BEACH. WE CAN ALSO SEE THE BIRD ISLANDS AND THE LIGHTHOUSE FROM HERE.

The specks on the beach is the rest of our group who waited for us stragglers. We had now hiked around 12 or 13k which had taken us about 3.30hrs. After a short rest we headed west along the beach towards the cliffs in the far distance.

FROM THE VIEW POINT WE SEE ACROSS THE BEACH TO THE CLIFFS WHERE WE WILL EVENTUALLY CLIMB UP. FROM THE BEACH HERE IT IS ABOUT 5K TO THE ROPE LADDER. THIS IS GOING TO BE A TOUGH SECTION AS THE WEST WIND HAS REALLY PICKED UP AND WE HAVE TO DUCK OUR HEADS TO TRY TO AVOID THE SAND GETTING INTO OUR EYES.

Today we had a West Wind to contend with. Fortunately for us the moon was full and we had a super low tide as can be seen in this picture. The low tide made this section of the hike much more pleasant than if we had been hiking at High tide, in the soft sand and into the wind. We were lucky.
As we walked this section into the wind talking is difficult as our words were swept away with the wind. However Graham and I did talk about the Surfers marathon in EL. I have done a number of Surfers which is about 18k of beach and road in East London and a real tough event. Maybe Graham will join me next year.
Plough Shells -- those little creatures that swarm around blue bottles and jellyfish, are the main life form that you see as you hike this section. The beach was clean of debris and litter. The rangers drove past in their truck. We thought probably making sure that no illegal use was being made of this conservation section of beach.

FINALLY WE REACH THE CLIFFS. IT IS STILL A LONG SLOG BEFORE WE REACH THE ROPE LADDER.

The hike along the beach could be about 3 or 4k to the cliffs and then another one km to the rope ladder. For us it was mostly firm sand with only occasional sections of soft sand.

BRIAN IS SHADOWED BY THE CLIFFS TO THE RIGHT.

THE ROPE LADDER WITH FRED AND MATT WATCHING US FROM THE TOP.

It is easy to miss this rope ladder if you are chatting or if you have your head down against the west wind. You must first climb up unaided, then grab the rope, pull yourself up and the last bit has steps. It is probably best to allow the person ahead to complete or almost complete the climb as this allows him to make optimal use of the rope.

BRIAN SCRAMBLES UP THE FIRST SECTION TO REACH THE ROPE. WITHOUT THE ROPE IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THIS SECTION.

GRAHAM IS JUST BEHIND BRIAN.

AT THE TOP OF THE ROPE LADDER WE TAKE A SHORT BREAK BEFORE HEADING OFF ON THE FINAL STRETCH OF THE DAY. IT IS ABOUT 3K TO THE HUT FROM HERE INCLUDING A STEEP DUNE CLIMB TO START OFF WITH. TODAY, WITH THE WEST WIND STINGING OUR LEGS AND FACES THE DUNE CLIMB IS AS TOUGH AS IT GETS.

There is absolutely no reason to rush the hike. Make use of every opportunity to rest and to enjoy the views and surroundings throughout the day. The longest you could take today is about 7 hours from start to finish. For us we hiked between 5.30 to 6.30 hours depending if you were in the fast or the slow group.

THE WOODY CAPE HUT IS REALLY WELL APPOINTED WITH CROCKERY, GLASSES, CUTLERY.

From the top of the rope ladder you climb a steep dune before heading along about 2k of pathway which, as it always does just before reaching the hut, appears to take for ever. Finally we see a sign indicating the route we will take tomorrow and then walk under the canopy along a boarwalk to the hut.The really nice thing about arriving at the Woody Cape hut is how well appointed it is. There is absolutely everything that a hiker could want. The pictures tell it all.

A GAS COOKER WITH TWO LARGE GAS BOTTLES MAKES IT UNNECESSARY TO CARRY A COOKER.

JOHN; BRADLEY; BRIAN; GRAHAM AND I SHARED A ROOM. THE MATRESSES ARE COMFY AND HAVE A MATRESS PROTECTOR. ABOVE US IS A SKYLIGHT TO MAKE THE ROOM BRIGHT. THIS EVENING IS FULL MOON AND WE HAVE A WELL LIT HUT ALMOST THE WHOLE EVENING.

Soft mattresses make for a really good afternoon nap or an early sleep. There are candle holders with bedside tables and the rooms are not nearly as cramped as we have had in some of the hikes.

BRAD IS ON THE TOP BUNK.

BRIAN UNPACKS AND TAKES OFF HIS SWEATY SHIRT.

The kitchen and the dining room both have tables and chairs. There are interesting posters on the walls with all kinds of information to make the hike a lesson in Marine Biology.

WE HAD REACHED THE HUT AT ABOUT 2PM FROM A 7.30AM START. WE ARE FORTUNATE TO HAVE THE FINAL BIT OF SUN TO DRY OUT OUR CLOTHING.

Looking out from the balcony; we soon had our evening beverages with sufficient snacks to keep an early evening conversation flowing. This is the fun part of hiking. This evening Graham spotted a small pod of three whales passing by as they headed in an easterly direction. They appeared to be feeding as they slapped the ocean with their tails. Strangely they were not "blowing" and we saw no spouts.

THERE ARE TWO HUGE TANKS WITH THOUSANDS OF LITERS OF WATER WHICH MUST HAVE BEEN AIRLIFTED TO THE HUT AS WE CANNOT IMAGINE THAT THEY WERE CARRIED.

The tanks are certainly sufficient for 12 hikers. We had more than enough water to supply our evening needs and for the next day. I imagine that if it did not rain for months there would still be enough water for everyone.

RELAXING AFTER THE LONG CLIMB FROM THE DUNES TO THE TOP IOP OF THIS HILL WHICH IS ABOUT 2K IN TOTAL.

Sunday morning. We left the hut at around 7.10 says Barry. The first Kay is along a path and steps to the top of the dune which used to be a major shlep. From there we had 5kays of tough dune climbing while being chased by a strong west wind. The going up was tough because the sand was loose and would drive up against our legs and invade every part of the body. I had a Buff and put that over my head leading to Barry calling me Peter of Arabia. I personally ended up between groups. I could not see the footprints of those in front. I could not see Brian and Graham behind me. I Battled to see the next footprint sign and basically headed towards the sun in the East. A generally miserable section of the hike. I was again glad that my bag was light.
Finally I reached the group and was able to enjoy a Nartjie and a Boerrie Roll. Empty boots of the sand and set myself for the next section. We had now walked about 6k in around 2 hours. From where we left the sand dunes we began a trek past some cattle pastures and up a really long (2km) hill. This hill is steep and not for someone who is not reasonably cardio fit.

At the top of the hill we were allowed (by Fred's fast friends) to have a brief rest before he announced: "Riiiiiight" which meant -- Lets go.
From here we have about 5km of walking left. This is going to be probably the easiest section of the two days. There are no long climbs left. The walking is through a shaded canopy, sheltered from the, still blowing strongly, westerly. There was no more stopping. Graham, Brian and I hoofed it along at a steady pace chatting, as we had the full two days, about the "old days".
We exit the forest to find ourselves at the Friday night house. A short while later we are gathering with the rest of the group at the cars.
A decision was made to stop at Nanaga for a Pie and Chips; John, Bradley and I decided to head for home. John dropped me off that Sunday afternoon at about 2pm in time to have a wash, get my clothes washed and unpack my stuff in time for church.

Monday morning I was still stiff and sore but forced myself out of bed to meet with the group for a 15k run at the beach front.

Thanks to Graham and Fred for setting the hike up. It was good to make new friends, to catch up with Young (old) friends and to be in the outdoors with a good excuse to indulge ourselves in too much to eat and drink. \